Ahale's 94 Build thread

Thanks, its still not, pulled the afc apart today, ground the foot and washers for travel, checked the opening pressure of the afc, fully open at about 25 lbs, ill clearly need to streach the spring or go to something different once ive got the bigger sticks. Pulled the plate out for now and went for a blast to see if some egt's would help the stock injectors out any, not the case. Has a wicked miss at idle, cylinder drop says 4 is horrible, and both 3 and 5 seem lame. 1, 2 and 6 are the only ones that register a consistsnt drop in rpm when i crack an injector line.

Anyways, going to wait for the injectors to show up and tune from there. Probably use my spare time to remove my friends #6 plate, and grind my stocker to look similar.

Need to re-lash the valves and do a hot retorque this week. is it a good idea to pull the nuts and washers off to re-lube the studs before a retorque?
 
ahale2772 said:
Thanks, its still not, pulled the afc apart today, ground the foot and washers for travel, checked the opening pressure of the afc, fully open at about 25 lbs, ill clearly need to streach the spring or go to something different once ive got the bigger sticks. Pulled the plate out for now and went for a blast to see if some egt's would help the stock injectors out any, not the case. Has a wicked miss at idle, cylinder drop says 4 is horrible, and both 3 and 5 seem lame. 1, 2 and 6 are the only ones that register a consistsnt drop in rpm when i crack an injector line.

Anyways, going to wait for the injectors to show up and tune from there. Probably use my spare time to remove my friends #6 plate, and grind my stocker to look similar.

Need to re-lash the valves and do a hot retorque this week. is it a good idea to pull the nuts and washers off to re-lube the studs before a retorque?
Click to expand...

i wouldn't recommend pulling the nuts off considering the reason for doing a re-torque is to find any studs that have settled...
 
well the head gasket settled, its clear of that, I put the valves at 12 and 22 and there already tight on a 10 and 20 feeler gauge. I'm not worried about the studs stretching, I want to pull the nuts so I can get an accurate TQ reading when pulling them up so i know they are where I want them to be
 
Question about wiring for my converter lockup switch ....

does anyone know if the OD/off circuit is just a grounded circuit like a manual lockup switch is? I really want to use another OD/off switch as a lockup switch, install it right next to the OD/off button.

anyone know what i'm talking about? i'd love to have the light come on on the switch like the OD/off does. I BELIEVE, that that switch has two functions to it, 12V hot that turns the light in the switch on/off, and the actual switch function, completing the ground circut for overdrive off............that is a big assumption.... am I right? there are 4 pins on the back of the switch, that spretty much all i'm going by LOL
 
hopefully, injectors, turbo, downpipe and valvebody will come this week. cant wait to get it running like it should.



Rocker support from Weston, very nice piece.
8BA2B76C-300E-4FF9-B474-2227EABFA9DD-606-0000005F04651FD9.jpg
 
ahale2772 said:
Besides a 2095 plug no, plan was run stock dv's with 5x16 untill i need more fuel. Im confused why after the gov springs the truck is down on what little power it has.
Click to expand...

My truck popped and missed on stock DV's with 5x18s, with 024's smooth as silk.
 
ahale2772 said:
Question about wiring for my converter lockup switch ....

does anyone know if the OD/off circuit is just a grounded circuit like a manual lockup switch is? I really want to use another OD/off switch as a lockup switch, install it right next to the OD/off button.

anyone know what i'm talking about? i'd love to have the light come on on the switch like the OD/off does. I BELIEVE, that that switch has two functions to it, 12V hot that turns the light in the switch on/off, and the actual switch function, completing the ground circut for overdrive off............that is a big assumption.... am I right? there are 4 pins on the back of the switch, that spretty much all i'm going by LOL
Click to expand...

I believe OD is a grounded circuit...should be able to ground it or cut the circuit to control when 4th is engaged.
 
JQmile said:
My truck popped and missed on stock DV's with 5x18s, with 024's smooth as silk.
Click to expand...

yeah, you and a few other have told me that I should do a bit different DV with the 5x16, Big Blue24v has offered to sent me a few sets of DV's to test out on the dyno, so whatever runs best.

Lostnwalmart, thanks, it was a pain, but its nice to have it leak free... and red LOL

Straight 6, Looks like that is the case, so im going to piggy back off the OD/off switch for the switch light, then complete the ground circut with another od/switch. My buddy Jake, somewhere on this forum managed to rip another OD/off switch out of a parts truck, so it should look good
 
Question...

what is going to break first in the 47rh?? lol

only thing I have ordered so far is a TRE valvebody, I'm pretty easy on how I drive, so I'm wondering when the stock flexplate, and the input shaft are in danger of throwing in the towel.... I could kinda care less about the converter, because I think I will probably be able to tell if its planning to **** the bed, but I'm worried about toasting other parts if the input/flexplate breaks

opinions?
 
WELP.... bad news.

valve body showed up today, got it from TRE. put it in tonight, found some metal shavings in the pan. :(

installed the valve body anyways, finish it up, and realize I have the wrong transmission fluid, napa premium ATF.... its all I had so I put it in.

test drive it, feels like crap, bring it back to the shop, adjust the tv cable, still feels like crap, but a little better. on the way home, I mashed the throttle to the floor, and blew the exhaust right out of the truck, literally went POPBANG and ran the muffler, and the rest of the exhaust right over -____________-

1-2 shift feels nice and hard, 2-3 shift hesitates and it softer than the stock valvebody. no 2nd gear lock up, and the converter lock up seems overall softer than before.

I think I will drain the fluid tomorrow and put the right stuff in.

I'm kind of lost now, I dont have the money to build the trans like It should be, Ive got the cash for a converter, but thats about it.

No idea in hell how i'm planning on holding back 5x18's and the 62 when the tranmission won't even hold this power. sorry about my punctuation and grammar, I'm venting and quite pissed off:nail::doh::doh::doh:
 
This is true, when I first had the basic rebuild on this trans i honestly
Never thought I'd put power to this engine, i'm paying for it now.

Goin to drain the fluid best I can tonight and fill it with the best possible fluid.

Engine is running great on the other hand, never in my wildest dreams did i think I would max out a stock muffler while I am still in the 300hp range. Live and learn i guess.
Tractor hydraulic fluid any better than a good ATF?
 
John Deere Hygard has been tried and used by several people. I think that's what Blue24 runs in his junker drag, it's what's in my truck. Still looks clear almost haha.
 
almost LOL

I talked to Tim at TRE and he suggested that I keep the Napa atf in the truck, and that atf+4 would shift softer.

I think I'm going to get a reman triple disk from DPC, see what that does for me, my converter clutch is clearly slipping, so it will at least solve one problem

hopefully my downpipe will come today, ive got a local car show that I want to go to.

on another note... welded a vband on and polished the 62 cover and my Rusty steed is ready to go on.
E8BB2E4D-E423-4D6A-9FA7-A04986E21677-615-0000009D069439CC_zps9fea9a4e.jpg


moved the battery back to use an intake I had leftover from my 1stgen. worked nicely other than some wiring I need to clean up
09325EDC-2B96-4386-8B8B-B177539BB84D-615-0000009D15187C7E_zps969c5f74.jpg
 
so.... converter is ordered, and i'm starting to think about rebuilding my RH myself.

Ive got a few questions. Right now, my stock(ish) converter seems to be ****ting the bed, lock up seems to slip, but I cant really confirm its the lock up clutch 100%.... but I have a few reasons I think it is. first, when I drained my fluid this week, it was bright red, and even the filter was still the correct color. fluid dosnt smell burnt, so I kind of assume that the clutch packs are ok? clearly this is a shot in the dark.

Where can I hook a line pressure guage up to? What should I be seeing for pressure with this TRE valvebody?

also... is a suncoast master rebuild worth it?
 
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