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Old 02-04-2012, 05:32 PM   #1
shortbusdriver
 
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Triangulated 4 link options

Starting my suspension build soon on my 94 4x4 SCLB and was going to back half it with one of the 4 link back half kits untill I was pointed in the direction of a trangulated 4 link setup. Was told the regular back half kits are not built tough enough for a high powered 7000lb diesel and a triangulated kit would be much better suited for my needs.

Now the best I can describe the truck is it will be built as a Diesel Power Challege truck. So by this I mean it has to race, pull, tow, and whatever else they do nowadays. I just really want to set it up the best I can, even if its expensive.

Looking into these triangulated kits I see they come as a single or double. Not sure what would suite me better. Most of the info out there is for rock crawlers and trail trucks so I dont really know how to translate it into useful info for me.

If its a single do I want the triangulated links on the bottom or top? Ill prob come up with more questions as I get even more confused on the subject.

Last edited by shortbusdriver; 02-04-2012 at 05:33 PM.
 
Old 02-04-2012, 06:48 PM   #2
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You want to keep the triangulated links on the top and have them come together on the axle end. It will give you a better roll center then if the lower ones were triangulated. The problem is your fuel tank is right in the way. Good luck. Let us know how the build goes.

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Old 02-04-2012, 06:59 PM   #3
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Fuel tank in the bed. Space is not an issue. I was told to go with a double setup if I have the space. This is what I was thinking but I do not know the drawbacks if there are any.

I would also like to know the issues with same length 4 links vs longer/shorter setups.

Last edited by shortbusdriver; 02-04-2012 at 07:10 PM.
 
Old 02-04-2012, 07:08 PM   #4
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theres a 4 link calculator somewhere on the web. I used it about 3 years ago and it help alot. I was building a 2.5ton mud truck so im sure you may setup defferently. As for bar length It was a percentage off of the lower bar thats makes the upper bars. I think it was 30% shorter than the lower but not 100% sure.. I will see if I can find it for you.
 
Old 02-04-2012, 07:11 PM   #5
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Heard Pirate has one. Ill check it out when I have some time.
 
Old 02-04-2012, 07:16 PM   #6
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Suspension Calculator
 
Old 02-04-2012, 07:19 PM   #7
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4 bar linkage calculator:
http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/fi...V3.0metric.xls

Pictures with what to measure:
Pirate4x4.Com - View Single Post - 4 link mocked up ...Tell me what you think

Your vertical CG should be at the center to top side of your rear crankshaft flange.
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:25 AM   #8
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joe farmer's links are the one's you want use and listen to

read, read, read--measure, measure, measure---you can use pvc pipe for mock up tubes--

I'd use heims(big mothers 1 1/4") here's a kit that lot's of 4x4 guys use:

Link Kits, Brackets, & Tabs - RuffStuff Specialties

what are you using for springs/shocks???

take your time and build it right---if you can't stay to the exactness of the calculator dimensions I'd not worry, tons of guys get it close and it works---the calculator is the 100% perfect system and sometimes you just can't do it---

top bars are usually 70-75% of the bottom bar length---

stout mounts with extra bracing is your friend......chris
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:58 AM   #9
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Considered a trailing arm/ladder bar style and coil overs?
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csutton7 View Post
joe farmer's links are the one's you want use and listen to
Have talked with him about this.

Quote:
read, read, read--measure, measure, measure---you can use pvc pipe for mock up tubes--
pvc, good idea, ill use that

Quote:
I'd use heims(big mothers 1 1/4") here's a kit that lot's of 4x4 guys use:

Link Kits, Brackets, & Tabs - RuffStuff Specialties
Same kit I was told to use

Quote:
what are you using for springs/shocks???
Not sure yet, I was going to order the kit and get that under way before I worry about that. I would like some advice on what would be the best to run. I was thinking about some kind of adjustable coil over but I guess I am not to sure about anything as of now.

Quote:
take your time and build it right---if you can't stay to the exactness of the calculator dimensions I'd not worry, tons of guys get it close and it works---the calculator is the 100% perfect system and sometimes you just can't do it---
Good to know.

Quote:
stout mounts with extra bracing is your friend......chris
I was going to brace it as much as possible, due to the amount of power and what I plan on doing with it.
 
Old 02-05-2012, 01:09 PM   #11
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on the coilovers go with 2.5" minimum and 3" would be better--I'd talk to someone with extensive 4x4 experience on what rate springs to start out with if you go coilovers as it's a pain to change springs numerous times(trust me)--so you want to get close to start---

possibly you could try some front springs and shocks though, but I'm just brainstorming with that idea---good luck and keep us posted.....chris
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AHall View Post
Considered a trailing arm/ladder bar style and coil overs?

Chatted with Brandon and the more we talked the more he thought a beefy triangulated 4 link was the way to go. Most of the other kits I have looked into are quite flimsy compared to the one I plan on going with (at least as of now).
 
Old 02-05-2012, 02:22 PM   #13
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I personally like AFCO or Strange double adjustable and I'd recommend them in your application.
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:42 PM   #14
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like this?

AFCO Racing Products 3270 M2 Shock Double Adjust
 
Old 02-05-2012, 11:07 PM   #15
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Closer to these: AFCO Racing 3750 - AFCO Racing T2 Double Adjustable Shocks - Overview - SummitRacing.com


Or a set ready to run for $660 on page 115-116 of Strange's catalog.
Strange Engineering

I'd probably start with 150 or 175 in/lb springs, depending on how much you leave of the factory bed/frame/hitch/etc.
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Last edited by joefarmer; 02-05-2012 at 11:09 PM.
 
Old 02-05-2012, 11:21 PM   #16
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What is the proposed advantage of this vs the other 4 link method?
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:26 PM   #17
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Why would anyone spend that much on a shock that was not a King or Fox 2.5 or larger? Then can easiily be valved anyway you need.
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Old 02-06-2012, 12:09 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YOUNG GUNS15 View Post
What is the proposed advantage of this vs the other 4 link method?
Triangulated keeps the axle centered without have to use a Trac bar. There a couple different 4link setups.
 
Old 02-06-2012, 01:50 AM   #19
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Wishbone locater. Much stronger and keeps centered during travel.
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Old 02-06-2012, 06:26 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Wishbone locater. Much stronger and keeps centered during travel.
Looking at your setup vs a triangulated version doesnt look stronger to me.

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