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04-30-2013, 07:09 PM
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#1
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Name: 99cumminsdeere
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Goshen, Indiana
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 226
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How to Set-up a Ring and Pinion
I have a dana 80 and 60 in my pulling truck and I am looking to go from 3.55's to 4.88's. Can anyone direct me to a good thread on setting up ring and pinions? I have never done it before and would like to learn.
Also do I need to buy a shim and bearing kit to install them or can I get by without? Do I need any special tools?
I figure I better learn how if im gonna keep pulling.
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04-30-2013, 07:12 PM
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#2
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Name: jedeka
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Boone, Iowa
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Posts: 1,413
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Your rebuild kit will have bearings, seal and shims. I set up my Dana 60 and 80 and is trial and error. Bought my gears, rebuild kit and tools thru Complete Off-Road.
__________________
1996 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, 5 spd. 4.88 gears, 2.5" turbo, Smokem inj, 5000 rpm springs, NV271, South Bend dd clutch, 33x12.50-15 STS tires, 6 inch stack, custom valve springs
2005 3500 4x4 dually, auto, KORE leveling coils, 19.5 wheels, Smarty Jr
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04-30-2013, 07:32 PM
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#3
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Name: BigPapa
Title: Truckless
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Springfield, TN
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Posts: 5,010
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Lots of resources here:
Randy's Ring & Pinion
Good detailed instructions and I THINK a video or two. You will need a master kit to get the shims, you will need them, along with a set of set-up bearings that will slide on and off the carrier because the shims go behind the bearings. It's a very tedious task, so be ready for lots of trial and error. A lot of feel involved, too. I would also suggest a dial caliper to measure backlash.
I just had a friend put new bearings in mine and set it up right. Someone had been in there before I bought it and had it set up wrong. He's a gear head with lots of experience and loves setting these up and it took him a couple of hours to get it right.
__________________
Scott
2003 Avalanche Z71
Common sense is like deodorant. The people that need it most never use it.
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04-30-2013, 07:44 PM
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#4
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Name: DISTURBED
Title: YEA WE RIDE THE SHORT BUS
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Winchester, Va
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Posts: 6,417
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Your best bet is to have some one who knows how to do it, do it and you watch/help. Not done correctly and the out come can be very expensive.
__________________
Thanks, Jeremy
01 CTD Retired sled puller, dedicated "Twin Turbo" tow rig
96 CTD "TOO" Disturbed 3.0 - Built by Disturbed Diesel Performance
96 CTD "The Sickness" 2.6/2.8- Built by Disturbed Diesel Performance
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04-30-2013, 08:49 PM
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#5
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Name: sledshaker
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Millersburg, MO
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Posts: 920
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Make sure you buy new diff case for the 80 model. They worked for 3.55 and down, and 4.10 and up. Not sure on the 60.
__________________
Driving everything with wheels, and some things without.
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04-30-2013, 09:02 PM
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#6
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Name: 99cumminsdeere
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Goshen, Indiana
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Posts: 226
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If I pay someone what should I expect to pay in labor?
I just mainly don't wanna pay for labor a couple times if I decide I want a different ratio or stock ratio back in or a locker/spool ect.
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04-30-2013, 09:12 PM
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#7
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Name: 1pieceatatime.
Title: Comp Diesel Sponsor
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Utica NY
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Posts: 832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99cumminsdeere
If I pay someone what should I expect to pay in labor?
I just mainly don't wanna pay for labor a couple times if I decide I want a different ratio or stock ratio back in or a locker/spool ect.
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6-8 hours per axle is reasonable.
If you are just changing a diff carrier and its a relatively fresh build, its not unreasonable to just swap the carrier out and not touch the pinion, leaving just the back lash to adjust for less time.
If you are doing a ratio change ( one that doesn't require a carrier change) and the Diff carrier bearings are relatively fresh then its not unreasonable to not mess with them, but the shims will have to be changed accordingly.
If you are a capable mechanic that can read a set of mics and follow a detailed repair manual, you should be able to tackle it yourself.
__________________
Need Axle and Driveline parts? Maybe a custom driveshaft? Hit me up for quote. - U-joints
- Slip yokes
- End Yokes
- Axle Shafts
- Axle and Diff Parts
- Dana & AAM Ball joint kits
Last edited by 1pieceatatime.; 04-30-2013 at 09:14 PM.
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05-01-2013, 06:37 AM
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#8
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Name: Supershafts
Title: We race, so You win
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
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Posts: 421
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$300 to $450 is usually what the cost varies on set up depending on area and shop.
You can expect to pay more for the tools needed to do that unless you have a press, spreader, calipers, depth ind, dial ind, torque wrench to 250 ft lbs, torque meter, and either set up bearings for the carrier or the machined carrier set up tool bearing blanks.
__________________
We Race!! We Vote!!
71 Dart 340, 73 RR 440-6pk clone, 78 Magnum GT, 85 W-350 Power Ram le cc, 91 Dodge daytona, 95 Jeep GC, 99 Dakota, 08 Dodge Ram 6.7
Last edited by Supershafts; 05-01-2013 at 06:40 AM.
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05-08-2013, 09:19 PM
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#9
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Name: Bolof
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Posts: 9
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I just chan.ged my 80 out last month to a set of 5.13's and it was very time consuming. I have set up many 9" before and the 80 was probably one of the harder ones I have ever done just because of the shims behind the bearings. One trick I did read up on to save a little money was that you can use your 3.55 carrier and put 4.10 or better gears in. You have to take both main carrier shims, the big 3/4" or 1" spacers that are on each side of the carrier bearings and move them both to the drivers side. It will push the whole carrier assembly over enough so you can shim accordingly. I wouldn't recommend this if you have a 4.10 and up carrier but for a budget build or a pulling set up it will work. I haven't put the power to the ground yet with it but I got everything to set up lash wise with a great pattern on the teeth. Hope this helps a little.
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05-09-2013, 05:04 AM
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#10
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Name: DISTURBED
Title: YEA WE RIDE THE SHORT BUS
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Winchester, Va
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Posts: 6,417
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That isn't really a smart way to do it at all. when you move those big shims like that you now weaken the side you put the extra shim on because you move the bearing out of the main cap that distance. So instead of using the full face of the bearing against the main cap now you are only using a part of it. Your going to be looking for parts pretty soon. If your on a budget then this isn't the way to do it. Do it right so you aren't doing it again after 1-2 hooks.
__________________
Thanks, Jeremy
01 CTD Retired sled puller, dedicated "Twin Turbo" tow rig
96 CTD "TOO" Disturbed 3.0 - Built by Disturbed Diesel Performance
96 CTD "The Sickness" 2.6/2.8- Built by Disturbed Diesel Performance
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05-09-2013, 05:54 AM
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#11
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Name: Astaindsoul5446
Title: FNG
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Milford NY
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Posts: 257
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^^^ what he said,
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05-09-2013, 01:40 PM
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#12
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Name: Supershafts
Title: We race, so You win
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolof
I just chan.ged my 80 out last month to a set of 5.13's and it was very time consuming. One trick I did read up on to save a little money was that you can use your 3.55 carrier and put 4.10 or better gears in. You have to take both main carrier shims, the big 3/4" or 1" spacers that are on each side of the carrier bearings and move them both to the drivers side.
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Did you read that on the internet ? and where ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DISTURBED
That isn't really a smart way to do it at all. when you move those big shims like that you now weaken the side you put the extra shim on because you move the bearing out of the main cap that distance. So instead of using the full face of the bearing against the main cap now you are only using a part of it. Your going to be looking for parts pretty soon. If your on a budget then this isn't the way to do it. Do it right so you aren't doing it again after 1-2 hooks.
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I have to agree, that isn't a cheap trick, that is a expensive trick, you also very likely moved one axle out of side gear engagement spec.
.
__________________
We Race!! We Vote!!
71 Dart 340, 73 RR 440-6pk clone, 78 Magnum GT, 85 W-350 Power Ram le cc, 91 Dodge daytona, 95 Jeep GC, 99 Dakota, 08 Dodge Ram 6.7
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05-09-2013, 03:55 PM
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#13
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Name: fox
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: central Illinois
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Posts: 908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99cumminsdeere
If I pay someone what should I expect to pay in labor?
I just mainly don't wanna pay for labor a couple times if I decide I want a different ratio or stock ratio back in or a locker/spool ect.
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If you think you will reuse the original gears, keep all shims in a group, labeled and tagged.
They aren't that hard to do if you understand the process.
I can do them and have for $300, but you have to bring the complete assemble to me. I will NOT lay under a truck to do it, or stand under one on a lift anymore.
__________________
1998 12 valve 4x4 2500 auto trans.
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05-09-2013, 05:50 PM
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#14
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Name: sledshaker
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Millersburg, MO
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supershafts
Did you read that on the internet ? and where ?
I have to agree, that isn't a cheap trick, that is a expensive trick, you also very likely moved one axle out of side gear engagement spec.
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I did this trick on a DD/2.6 truck. Ran it for two years pulling and driving on the street, not a single problem. It is not the correct way, but it does work.
__________________
Driving everything with wheels, and some things without.
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05-09-2013, 05:59 PM
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#15
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Name: Bolof
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2012
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 9
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I first learned of moving the spacers off this forums archive. Dates of 6-15 through 7-04-2010. One member even said that shied sets some of there trucks up that way that leaves their shop. I was just throwing that option out there. Like I said if you have any other option to get the correct carrier that would be the best way to go. When I was reading about it at first I thought it was a lot of bull, but after mock up everything seems good. Again I'm not recommending this just throwing it out there for conversation.
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05-09-2013, 07:55 PM
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#16
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Name: 1pieceatatime.
Title: Comp Diesel Sponsor
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Utica NY
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolof
I first learned of moving the spacers off this forums archive. Dates of 6-15 through 7-04-2010. One member even said that shied sets some of there trucks up that way that leaves their shop. I was just throwing that option out there. Like I said if you have any other option to get the correct carrier that would be the best way to go. When I was reading about it at first I thought it was a lot of bull, but after mock up everything seems good. Again I'm not recommending this just throwing it out there for conversation.
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Good for Sheid, they also sold a guy around here some high dollar s366 2.6 pulling charger that was at least .010" oversized for a 2.6 plug check.
__________________
Need Axle and Driveline parts? Maybe a custom driveshaft? Hit me up for quote. - U-joints
- Slip yokes
- End Yokes
- Axle Shafts
- Axle and Diff Parts
- Dana & AAM Ball joint kits
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06-08-2013, 10:37 AM
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#17
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Name: smokin247
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolof
I first learned of moving the spacers off this forums archive. Dates of 6-15 through 7-04-2010. One member even said that shied sets some of there trucks up that way that leaves their shop. I was just throwing that option out there. Like I said if you have any other option to get the correct carrier that would be the best way to go. When I was reading about it at first I thought it was a lot of bull, but after mock up everything seems good. Again I'm not recommending this just throwing it out there for conversation.
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This is what Pure Diesel Power told me to do with 3.55 gears and a Detroit locker.
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06-08-2013, 02:38 PM
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#18
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Name: 1pieceatatime.
Title: Comp Diesel Sponsor
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Utica NY
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokin247
This is what Pure Diesel Power told me to do with 3.55 gears and a Detroit locker.
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3.55s and A detroit? In a puller?
__________________
Need Axle and Driveline parts? Maybe a custom driveshaft? Hit me up for quote. - U-joints
- Slip yokes
- End Yokes
- Axle Shafts
- Axle and Diff Parts
- Dana & AAM Ball joint kits
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06-09-2013, 01:41 PM
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#19
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Name: smokin247
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1pieceatatime.
3.55s and A detroit? In a puller?
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Didn't say anything about a puller.
__________________
97 nv4500 4x4. 63/68/.83, 5x.014, 025dv, airdog 4g 165, Hellman sump, steedspeed T4, bored .020 over, Mahle pistons, balanced crank, o-rings, valve job, Hamilton 188/220, Hamilton HD pushrods, SDX beehive springs & retainers, valair DD, and every bolt ARP makes.
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06-19-2013, 07:40 PM
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#20
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Name: Fahlin Racing
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NE Ohio
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 469
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Overhaul manual
Clean work area
Machinist bluing
Mounted Dial indicator
Sockets & ratchet
Impact gun
Housing spreader (if needed)
Misc. cup installing tools (if needed)
Time
Patience
Your choice of beverage & tunes
Dana 80
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXSM-0053.pdf
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