How to Set-up a Ring and Pinion

9

99cumminsdeere

New member
I have a dana 80 and 60 in my pulling truck and I am looking to go from 3.55's to 4.88's. Can anyone direct me to a good thread on setting up ring and pinions? I have never done it before and would like to learn.

Also do I need to buy a shim and bearing kit to install them or can I get by without? Do I need any special tools?

I figure I better learn how if im gonna keep pulling.
 
Your rebuild kit will have bearings, seal and shims. I set up my Dana 60 and 80 and is trial and error. Bought my gears, rebuild kit and tools thru Complete Off-Road.
 
Lots of resources here:

Randy's Ring & Pinion


Good detailed instructions and I THINK a video or two. You will need a master kit to get the shims, you will need them, along with a set of set-up bearings that will slide on and off the carrier because the shims go behind the bearings. It's a very tedious task, so be ready for lots of trial and error. A lot of feel involved, too. I would also suggest a dial caliper to measure backlash.

I just had a friend put new bearings in mine and set it up right. Someone had been in there before I bought it and had it set up wrong. He's a gear head with lots of experience and loves setting these up and it took him a couple of hours to get it right.
 
Your best bet is to have some one who knows how to do it, do it and you watch/help. Not done correctly and the out come can be very expensive.
 
Make sure you buy new diff case for the 80 model. They worked for 3.55 and down, and 4.10 and up. Not sure on the 60.
 
If I pay someone what should I expect to pay in labor?

I just mainly don't wanna pay for labor a couple times if I decide I want a different ratio or stock ratio back in or a locker/spool ect.
 
99cumminsdeere said:
If I pay someone what should I expect to pay in labor?

I just mainly don't wanna pay for labor a couple times if I decide I want a different ratio or stock ratio back in or a locker/spool ect.
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6-8 hours per axle is reasonable.

If you are just changing a diff carrier and its a relatively fresh build, its not unreasonable to just swap the carrier out and not touch the pinion, leaving just the back lash to adjust for less time.

If you are doing a ratio change ( one that doesn't require a carrier change) and the Diff carrier bearings are relatively fresh then its not unreasonable to not mess with them, but the shims will have to be changed accordingly.

If you are a capable mechanic that can read a set of mics and follow a detailed repair manual, you should be able to tackle it yourself.
 
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$300 to $450 is usually what the cost varies on set up depending on area and shop.
You can expect to pay more for the tools needed to do that unless you have a press, spreader, calipers, depth ind, dial ind, torque wrench to 250 ft lbs, torque meter, and either set up bearings for the carrier or the machined carrier set up tool bearing blanks.
 
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I just chan.ged my 80 out last month to a set of 5.13's and it was very time consuming. I have set up many 9" before and the 80 was probably one of the harder ones I have ever done just because of the shims behind the bearings. One trick I did read up on to save a little money was that you can use your 3.55 carrier and put 4.10 or better gears in. You have to take both main carrier shims, the big 3/4" or 1" spacers that are on each side of the carrier bearings and move them both to the drivers side. It will push the whole carrier assembly over enough so you can shim accordingly. I wouldn't recommend this if you have a 4.10 and up carrier but for a budget build or a pulling set up it will work. I haven't put the power to the ground yet with it but I got everything to set up lash wise with a great pattern on the teeth. Hope this helps a little.
 
That isn't really a smart way to do it at all. when you move those big shims like that you now weaken the side you put the extra shim on because you move the bearing out of the main cap that distance. So instead of using the full face of the bearing against the main cap now you are only using a part of it. Your going to be looking for parts pretty soon. If your on a budget then this isn't the way to do it. Do it right so you aren't doing it again after 1-2 hooks.
 
Bolof said:
I just chan.ged my 80 out last month to a set of 5.13's and it was very time consuming. One trick I did read up on to save a little money was that you can use your 3.55 carrier and put 4.10 or better gears in. You have to take both main carrier shims, the big 3/4" or 1" spacers that are on each side of the carrier bearings and move them both to the drivers side.
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Did you read that on the internet ? and where ?


DISTURBED said:
That isn't really a smart way to do it at all. when you move those big shims like that you now weaken the side you put the extra shim on because you move the bearing out of the main cap that distance. So instead of using the full face of the bearing against the main cap now you are only using a part of it. Your going to be looking for parts pretty soon. If your on a budget then this isn't the way to do it. Do it right so you aren't doing it again after 1-2 hooks.
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I have to agree, that isn't a cheap trick, that is a expensive trick, you also very likely moved one axle out of side gear engagement spec.

.
 
99cumminsdeere said:
If I pay someone what should I expect to pay in labor?

I just mainly don't wanna pay for labor a couple times if I decide I want a different ratio or stock ratio back in or a locker/spool ect.
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If you think you will reuse the original gears, keep all shims in a group, labeled and tagged.
They aren't that hard to do if you understand the process.
I can do them and have for $300, but you have to bring the complete assemble to me. I will NOT lay under a truck to do it, or stand under one on a lift anymore.
 
Supershafts said:
Did you read that on the internet ? and where ?





I have to agree, that isn't a cheap trick, that is a expensive trick, you also very likely moved one axle out of side gear engagement spec.

.
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I did this trick on a DD/2.6 truck. Ran it for two years pulling and driving on the street, not a single problem. It is not the correct way, but it does work.
 
I first learned of moving the spacers off this forums archive. Dates of 6-15 through 7-04-2010. One member even said that shied sets some of there trucks up that way that leaves their shop. I was just throwing that option out there. Like I said if you have any other option to get the correct carrier that would be the best way to go. When I was reading about it at first I thought it was a lot of bull, but after mock up everything seems good. Again I'm not recommending this just throwing it out there for conversation.
 
Bolof said:
I first learned of moving the spacers off this forums archive. Dates of 6-15 through 7-04-2010. One member even said that shied sets some of there trucks up that way that leaves their shop. I was just throwing that option out there. Like I said if you have any other option to get the correct carrier that would be the best way to go. When I was reading about it at first I thought it was a lot of bull, but after mock up everything seems good. Again I'm not recommending this just throwing it out there for conversation.
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Good for Sheid, they also sold a guy around here some high dollar s366 2.6 pulling charger that was at least .010" oversized for a 2.6 plug check. :doh:
 
Bolof said:
I first learned of moving the spacers off this forums archive. Dates of 6-15 through 7-04-2010. One member even said that shied sets some of there trucks up that way that leaves their shop. I was just throwing that option out there. Like I said if you have any other option to get the correct carrier that would be the best way to go. When I was reading about it at first I thought it was a lot of bull, but after mock up everything seems good. Again I'm not recommending this just throwing it out there for conversation.
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This is what Pure Diesel Power told me to do with 3.55 gears and a Detroit locker.
 
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