back half and 4-link

[1stgenctd]

I will be doing a back half and 4-link setup on my 1st gen and was wondering people's setups. Not sire of the NHRDA rules but I'd like to get my truck somewhere in the mid-high 10's and be legal to run at the track. What is better setup 2x3 tube or round tube? Any help is appreciated

[ahale2772]

bump!

We found lots of holes in Chris's frame, so back half is the new plan.

Trans is waiting for the correct rear planet, but it has full 48re internals, billet input, intermediate, output (47rh)

need to build drive shafts for his clocked np271 (looks more like a drop box now ) He already swapped in a d60 up front and will probably get my SRW disk D80 out back

this truck may eventually get my Hamilton head, 13mm pump and go BIG with an s500 over his 75/83/1.0

may be the ugliest pro street style build out there.... But the back half plan is the first order of business. it will probably end up as a triangulated 4 link but any better options are welcome

[adamsmarshall]

For simplicity a ladder bar is a very good option as tuning it in tends to be slightly simpler than a 4-link.

Personally I plan to run a parallel pro link with a chassis mounted watts link for lateral control as mine will still see the street. Panhard bar is a good option by all means though.

Personally I like the idea of the watts link better due to it guaranteeing that the axle will be dead centered every time, therefore making it slightly more predictable on launch. The chassis mount vs the axle mount just allows for adjusting roll center height as desired.

Another option if it's going to be strictly a drag truck and sees no street time is an X-link with slider joint.

That being said it's mostly just a matter of opinion on which setup you like best.

If 10's are the goal in the long run, a simple leaf spring and caltraks setup has been proven many times over and is a much cheaper option than the above linking options.

[adamsmarshall]

Also as a general rule being as heavy and torquey as our trucks tend to be compared to gassers, try to leave the bars no longer than 24"

[Crawler]

If you're set on a back half and four link-

Then I'd suggest the S&W 28" jigged and welded CM back half. Good bang for the buck and you know everything is perfect.

Click Me

[Crawler]

[Crawler]

[Crawler]

[Crawler]

[Crawler]

Now, all that being said, you can do a ton while staying with the sock frame.

It just depends which route you want to go.

[1stgenctd]

I can't use my stick frame, it looks like swiss cheese. From the cab back on the drivers side is junk

[Crawler]

Originally Posted by 1stgenctd

I can't use my stick frame, it looks like swiss cheese. From the cab back on the drivers side is junk

Completely understandable. For the money, the S&W piece is tough to beat. I bought mine back in December of 06 I think. I finished the truck in the spring of 07 and it has been a solid piece.