High temp spray paint......... in pink

crewgirl said:
Do you guys make it? Or know where I can find some?
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Crewgirl my best advice would be check the local auto parts stores but with pink being such a transparent color prone to fading you might not find it in a high temp coating.

Then again, I could be very wrong.

Thanks for asking!
 
I've checked all the stores :( No luck. Then I remember you being on here with the paint n stuff so I thought I'd ask. I guess I'm gonna just have to have stuff powder coated or give up on pink cummins parts.
 
Could just paint them with regular enamel spray paint and see how it holds up... worse that could happen is that it looks like Pepto melting off LOL
 
No, that's too much pink. I just want the valve cover and the brake calipers to be pink. MAYBE turbo piping when I get a set of twins.
 
crewgirl said:
No, that's too much pink. I just want the valve cover and the brake calipers to be pink. MAYBE turbo piping when I get a set of twins.
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Now I see what you're up to....calipers and valve covers are a walk in the park with automotive coatings. Off the shelf aerosol enamels while not ideal would work to an extent. My dad epoxied/basecoat/clearcoated the calipers on his vette and epoxied/basecoated/clearcoated the valve covers on my mom's T-bird. Nothing to it.

We are even selling an oem caliper manufacturer our epoxy for their brake calipers.

Ideally use an epoxy primer first on your pre-cleaned calipers and valve cover then top coat with your basecoat/clearcoat or single stage paint. If you were to use an epoxy under your pink I would use a white epoxy.

or

On the cheap and easy you could pre-clean the calipers first then use a quality aerosol etch primer (I like UPOL Acid#8) letting it flash about 5 minutes in between single pass coats with 2-3 coats being all you need. Wait 30 minutes assuming its reasonably warm (60+) then apply a quality pink aerosol as your topcoat.
 
Care to explain that in layman's terms now?

I have no clue what most of the products you mentioned are. Basecoat and clearcoat I got, cuz when I paint my nails I use those 2 items. Other than that.......... I'm lost.
 
When he says aerosol, he means like your hairspray. So think spraypaint LOL And most spray paints are enamel(at least the ones at the ACE here)

Also, no need for high temp paint on valve covers or brake calipers, mainly just exhaust manifolds or turbo exhaust housings.
 
I've seen some valve covers that were rattle canned with off the shelf stuff........ looks like crap eventually.

Mostly I was confused about the epoxy and the other thing he mentioned.... acid etch stuff.
The only epoxy I know is the quick set glue stuff (which fixed my leaky headlight!)
 
The Acid Etch Is For Cleaning/preping The Surface For Paint It Will Clean The Oils That Hinder The Adherement Of The Paints.
 
crewgirl said:
Care to explain that in layman's terms now?

I have no clue what most of the products you mentioned are. Basecoat and clearcoat I got, cuz when I paint my nails I use those 2 items. Other than that.......... I'm lost.
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A quality epoxy primer is designed to provide outstanding adhesion to practically anything solid including fiberglass, metals, plastics and aluminum. Quality epoxy primers by design are 100% waterproof and 100% air-proof which inhibits rusts. The higher the grade of epoxy the longer it inhibits rust from creeping under the epoxy if the surface becomes scratched through the epoxy down to the metal once rust begins.

That Acid #8 stuff actually works well though it doesn't contain acid like they say (if it did it would be considered a 1 component acid etch/wash primer). If it contained acid it would have to be in a lined can which the last time I popped one with a BB gun it was not lined. That said for an aersol I've used it a lot over the years and think its best of the aersols. For the money it has excellent coverage and adhesion to bare metals and aluminum. You can find it online or at your local auto body supply store.
 
crewgirl said:
I've seen some valve covers that were rattle canned with off the shelf stuff........ looks like crap eventually.

Mostly I was confused about the epoxy and the other thing he mentioned.... acid etch stuff.
The only epoxy I know is the quick set glue stuff (which fixed my leaky headlight!)
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Acid etch/wash primers in the automotive aftermarket were said to replace epoxy primer for use over bare metal. Acid etch/wash primers are glorified latex primers they will never have the adhesion or corrosion resistance of epoxy primers. Being a latex/waterbase product I have personally seen numerous auto restorations where over the course of 6 mo to 4 yrs small paint bubbles develop on the top surface of the vehicle. This happens because UV light travels in a straight line and gradually re-flows over time the solvents from the solvent based 2K primer, solvent based basecoat and solvent based clearcoat. These solvents are compatible with their solvent based coating counterparts but not the latex based wash primer so they beginning attacking the wash primer until the point the wash primer begins to re-flow itself creating moisture. Moisture creates rust which creates a bubble. if you carefully pop this bubble while looking closely you will see a minute drop of rusty water.

Etch/wash primers are popular in high volume body shops because they can be top-coated faster than epoxies.

A problem I see in the market is certain paint companies continue to cheapen IMO their epoxies to the point where not only do they now sand anymore but some are even saying they aren't meant to go over bare metal anymore so they want you apply etch/wash primer first then epoxy which is about the most insane thing I have ever heard.

My epoxy is the absolute finest in the automotive aftermarket by a wide margin. It sticks to bare metals and aluminum. easily sand by hand or DA sander the next day, has unsurpassed corrosion protection and cures to a semi-gloss allowing the user to see where he needs to apply body filler. Also, if the vehicle never leaves the shop the user can apply 2k primer and/or body filler directly over my epoxy for up to 7 days without sanding the epoxies prior to application.
 
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