Key FOB

Been having issues with my factory Dodge key FOB. The hot. Will beep but it will not unlock the truck. After changing the batteries there is no change.

My question is, can I make this a real key ignition? I’d like to get remote start on the truck but I don’t want two FOBs. But I’d be ok with a key and a FOB.

Any experience with this?




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TTT

Anyone have experience with this. The keyless entry is obsolete through Dodge.

Ideally I’d like to get a new ignition with real key and an aftermarket keyless entry and remote start.


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Only thing I had problems with in an '08 was the remote start wouldn't work when one of the rear door wires broke, it couldn't sense door lock so it wouldn't start. Not sure on your issue with not locking. Maybe similar issue with broken wiring?

PSUCE said:

Only thing I had problems with in an '08 was the remote start wouldn't work when one of the rear door wires broke, it couldn't sense door lock so it wouldn't start. Not sure on your issue with not locking. Maybe similar issue with broken wiring?

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Rear door wires are hell. '09 this summer. All but like three or four wires were broke. You are correct. The remote start won't operate if it can't sense the doors. I just lengthened them all a tad. Dome light was my first clue the wires were broke when I opened the door and it didn't come on.

My truck does not have remote start just keyless entry.

The issue is the FOB communicating with the truck. It doesn’t seem to be a FOB issue as neither FOB works with new batteries.

I click the lock or unlock button and absolutely nothing happens. No lock. I unlock. No dome light.


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4x4dually said:

Rear door wires are hell. '09 this summer. All but like three or four wires were broke. You are correct. The remote start won't operate if it can't sense the doors. I just lengthened them all a tad. Dome light was my first clue the wires were broke when I opened the door and it didn't come on.

Click to expand...

I did the exact same thing, then they broke off next to the solder joints. :doh:

4x4dually said:

Rear door wires are hell. '09 this summer. All but like three or four wires were broke. You are correct. The remote start won't operate if it can't sense the doors. I just lengthened them all a tad. Dome light was my first clue the wires were broke when I opened the door and it didn't come on.

Click to expand...

Jory,

What is better for automotive, crimp or solder? I try and solder everything, some people say crimp is better?

Tobin said:

Jory,

What is better for automotive, crimp or solder? I try and solder everything, some people say crimp is better?

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As far as I'm concerned, crimp is better. It smashes the copper conductors and holds pressure on them. Solder from what I've read has a resistance several times higher than copper. It is much easier and faster to just properly crimp butt splices then cover with shrink. To solder properly takes good flux and that's usually messy. Solder sleeves are a combo of a shrinkable tubing with solder inside and works well if you flux the wires first, but it takes a decent heat gun to shrink them. Lots of good ways, but I normally just use a crimp splice and shrink. It can be debated back and forth. When bundle size is a concern, you can't do it any smaller than solder though. Really depends on the application. My harness above was a one hour deal because I needed it done so I could hit the road on time. It really isn't that pretty, but it is soldered and shrink tubed. I couldn't have gotten that many butt splices in the large boot.

Why not just get crimp and shrink connectors. We do this all day long on automotive wiring and it's the most reliable.

83-4150 - Heat Shrinkable Butt Connectors - Crystal Clear, 22-18 Gauge

Those are pretty nice ^^^^^. We use the solder-sleeve type on aerospace and naval stuff alot. They work pretty well as long as you pre-tin and flux the wire ends.