HE351VE on a 12 valve

CSM diesel

CSM diesel

Engineer
This is more of an update thread so to speak...

I have found the flanges to build an adapter for the odd ball he351ve flange to adapt it to a standard T3 flange.

I will use a single acting spring closure air cyl. from an exhaust brake.

Here is a pneumatic schematic for the VGT actuation:

vgtdiagram-1.jpg


The thought process is that the neutral position of the cyl (fully closed by the spring) will hold the veins in their closed position, or slid all the way in (exhaust brake mode.)

This causes concern as the default for the system is fully closed (i.e. exhaust brake mode.) To overcome this a non-relieving adjustable pressure regulator will be in line from the drive pressure port. Drive pressure will hold the air cyl open slightly to the minimum vein position TBD.

From there, as the turbo spools and boost increases, A pressure actuated electric switch (hobbs switch) will close at a TBD boost pressure and activate the three way valve.

This will switch the supply pressure to the air cyl from being the regulated drive pressure to boost pressure.

The vein position will now slide out and open up the volute area as boost pressure increases.

To activate the exhaust brake mode, a two way solenoid valve will be closed allowing the spring in the cyl to close the veins all the way down.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Am I crazy for doing this?

:st:
 
dragnsled said:
I would do it simple with a wastegate actuator that holds the vgt closed until boost is applied.
Click to expand...

I have both a wastegate and an air cyl at my disposal. So i will see how it goes.

The problem is that holding it fully closed is like having an exhaust brake on.
 
I was wondering the same thing myself. But I managed to to get a HE451VeTi which came off of an ISL. What I'm hoping is that the exhaust brake that worked on an 8.9L engine will make for rather quick spool in a 5.9 :Cheer:

Also, I don't know if you noticed this, But when the Exhaust housing opens up all the way the piston (or whatever you want to call it) slides about 1/8-3/16ths of an inch past the bottom of the turbine wheel... Knowing I have an enormous exhaust housing meaning I probably won't need to open it all the way; I marked in the travel of the arm where the piston is level with the bottom of the exhaust wheel. After measuring the travel from fully closed to "optimal" open and only coming up with 4.5mm at the little hole in the arm and 10mm at the end of the arm where it's cut for gear teeth; I decided to make a little longer arm. I think there will be a few advantages to this. A normal wastegate actuator should be able to travel it's full throw and not go past "optimal" open (if I do my math right when I make the extension). And the actuator should have better control over the exhaust housing since it wont open it too fast and kill the drive pressure. In fact I'm debating using either drive pressure or boost to run the wastegate actuator :bang

Just thought I'd throw that out there, thoughts? BTW I have some pretty nice pics of the comp wheel and the VGT workings in my other thread http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?p=613540#post613540 :rockwoot:
 
sdubfid said:
STP61868.jpg


would something like that work?
Click to expand...

I just discovered something!!
This is NOT a HE351v!! However the picture in my avatar is getting one before it goes back in the truck:evil


BlackSkyRacing said:
I was wondering the same thing myself. But I managed to to get a HE451VeTi which came off of an ISL. What I'm hoping is that the exhaust brake that worked on an 8.9L engine will make for rather quick spool in a 5.9 :Cheer:

Also, I don't know if you noticed this, But when the Exhaust housing opens up all the way the piston (or whatever you want to call it) slides about 1/8-3/16ths of an inch past the bottom of the turbine wheel... Knowing I have an enormous exhaust housing meaning I probably won't need to open it all the way; I marked in the travel of the arm where the piston is level with the bottom of the exhaust wheel. After measuring the travel from fully closed to "optimal" open and only coming up with 4.5mm at the little hole in the arm and 10mm at the end of the arm where it's cut for gear teeth; I decided to make a little longer arm. I think there will be a few advantages to this. A normal wastegate actuator should be able to travel it's full throw and not go past "optimal" open (if I do my math right when I make the extension). And the actuator should have better control over the exhaust housing since it wont open it too fast and kill the drive pressure. In fact I'm debating using either drive pressure or boost to run the wastegate actuator :bang

Just thought I'd throw that out there, thoughts? BTW I have some pretty nice pics of the comp wheel and the VGT workings in my other thread http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?p=613540#post613540 :rockwoot:
Click to expand...


Hey you think like me:eek:wned: Boost works better than drive pressure and limiting travel is a must. :cool:
 
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dragnsled said:
Hey you think like me:eek:wned: Boost works better than drive pressure and limiting travel is a must. :cool:
Click to expand...

Hahaha, great minds think alike then eh? I still think I'm going to be adding another gauge to the dash to keep an eye on the drive pressure :Cheer:
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
Hahaha, great minds think alike then eh? I still think I'm going to be adding another gauge to the dash to keep an eye on the drive pressure :Cheer:
Click to expand...

:badidea::umno: I used a piece of steel brake line coiled a few times to keep heat out of the plastic boost hose and gauge.
 
dragnsled said:
:badidea::umno: I used a piece of steel brake line coiled a few times to keep heat out of the plastic boost hose and gauge.
Click to expand...

I was under the impression that 10ft of copper tubing would work??? Can't remember where, I think in the March Diesel Power they showed a drive pressure gauge install...
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
I was under the impression that 10ft of copper tubing would work??? Can't remember where, I think in the March Diesel Power they showed a drive pressure gauge install...
Click to expand...

You should be fine.I only used steel cause it was cheap and I already had a piece at the shop at midnight.:hehe::hehe:
 
dragnsled said:
You should be fine.I only used steel cause it was cheap and I already had a piece at the shop at midnight.:hehe::hehe:
Click to expand...

LOLLOLLOL I know how that goes... 30 miles from the nearest town with anything to speak of for supplies. Our shop is so cluttered with stuff because "we may need that someday". Funny part is only about 10% of that stuff will ever get used :bang My dad's a pack rat...
 
Back from the DEAD!

It has been a long time since I have made any progress worth noting on this little endeavor.

Here it is on the manifold...

P1010004.jpg


And with the actuator...

IMG_2574.jpg


And again...

IMG_2575.jpg


And yet again...

IMG_2576.jpg



And finally, on the truck...

0416091612.jpg


I have chosen to flip the manifold and mount the turbo as high as possible, I am "going for broke" with this and will be hanging a K31 under it eventually.

I will be hopefully building the exhaust for it this weekend. The discharge pipe is done and the factory intake hooks up to it as well.

:st:
 
Why are you going with the he351 ? IMO you won't gain anything cause your not moving more air on the top end over the stock turbo.
 
It is a 60mm turbo. It will move more air than a "stocker." Plus, I live and drive at elevation (6k - 11k feet) and spool-up is my primary concern.
 
You will have to let me know how that works for you... I know my 451 using boost to control the housing was a pooch in Colorado Springs at about 6k'. I think for my set up using drive pressure might make it a little less finicky about elevation. But yours having a smaller housing and a more tunable set up should work quite well. I will tell you this VGT stuff is fun, it makes massive low end torque. But I too am definitely considering a K31 or a HT3B :evil

EDIT: Strange enough, my truck ran better going up the Mountain on Gold Camp Road then in town :bang

On a side note, it's not cool when you are working outside and the sirens at NORAD start going off :what:
 
I just drove up and over Loveland and Vail passes this weekend. Touched 1200deg a time or two with the hx35 and my fueling.

The rub is going to be finding where to switch over from dive pressure to boost pressure control. Staying at 1:1 boost to drive ratio is paramount.
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
You will have to let me know how that works for you... I know my 451 using boost to control the housing was a pooch in Colorado Springs at about 6k'. I think for my set up using drive pressure might make it a little less finicky about elevation. But yours having a smaller housing and a more tunable set up should work quite well. I will tell you this VGT stuff is fun, it makes massive low end torque. But I too am definitely considering a K31 or a HT3B :evil

EDIT: Strange enough, my truck ran better going up the Mountain on Gold Camp Road then in town :bang

On a side note, it's not cool when you are working outside and the sirens at NORAD start going off :what:
Click to expand...


I live at 6k feet. How big are the wheels on the 451? The 351 is 60/60/VGT IIRC.
 
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