(4) 10's behind seat?

Dboy11

Dboy11

Resident Closet Gay
Ive got an 04 Superduty and I want to put (4) 10's behind the rear seat. it is a crewcab. I have a single 10 back there right now but it is hitting the rear seat when it hits and blew it up. Do i need to get shallow mount subs for the box behind the seat. Also, anyone have any suggestions as far as the componets and box itself?
 
Shallow mounts will help get you some space between the seat and the back wall of the cab, but you may not have enough airspace available for 4. I suggest you get with a local specialty car audio retailer that you trust. Both Kicker and JL build good subs that don't need a ton of airspace.

I can tell you that 2 subs in properly sized and built enclosures will sound better than 4 subs in poorly built and sized enclosures. The proper enclosure can make in inexpensive sub sound great while a poor quality enclosure will make even the most expensive sub sound like crap!!!
 
I had 4 shallow 10's underneath my rear seat. Decided to run 2 shallow 12's in the same box.. the 12's sound/feel a LOT better. Can't help you though on fitment behind the seat since my application is a Dodge..
 
Lucky Jeff said:
I had 4 shallow 10's underneath my rear seat. Decided to run 2 shallow 12's in the same box.. the 12's sound/feel a LOT better. Can't help you though on fitment behind the seat since my application is a Dodge..
Click to expand...

No comment on the dodge :stab:

I will get with some local boys then. I did get my neighbors top of the line kenwood double din for free today to!
 
I've got two of these waiting to go into my car....

JL Audio 13TW5 Subwoofers - Car Audio Subwoofers

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Thanks preston! Im not a well...u know..with my want for subs, i just find that a 10 sounds good but still falls short somedays. The main issue I have right now is clearence behind the seat. The current 10 that is in there hits the back of the seat and i have blown it once. What is the advantage of going with a 12 over a 10 to begin with. Do they sound better? Are they louder? Do they hit harder and cleaner?
 
Bass is all about surface area, the enclosure and clean power. To get into the lower frequencies without distortion but loud, you need to go bigger on the sub size. I had three JL 8W6's behind the rear seat in my F150 SuperCrew and it sounded pretty damn awesome. I made up for small surface area by increasing the amount of subs in that install.

I usually only build sealed boxes. Trying to get a sub in a ported enclosure is usually a pain....when done wrong you can hear "port whistle". Plus, its just difficult to get everything EXACT to what you need to make it work...especially when you are working with such small dimensions as you are. If you build your own box, use HIGH density fiberboard. MDF works, but isn't as solid. Nail AND use wood glue on the seams and then seal the inside with silicone. Not a fan of terminal cups for connections.....not solid and allow the box to leak. Run the wires through the wood making a hole just barely large enough to get the wires out....then seal them with silicone.

I've got 12's in my present system. I used fiberglass fronts and then HDF for the rear.

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Port whistle results from improperly sized ports not from the ported design itself... I was an installer and fabricated MANY custom enclosures in my day... the majority of them were vented designs and bandpass designs (which also use vents) I never had port whistle in any of my designs! You need proper vent area for a given frequency of tune and sub size, if you go too small then you will get noise/whistle. Champhering the edges of the port/vent will help reduce noise.

Also, sealed enclosures are generally smaller than their vented counterparts but in most cases the vented enclosure will play lower and louder.

As I said previously in this thread a well built and well designed enclosure will make an ok sub sound great, but a poorly build and/or poorly designed enclosure will make a great sub sound like trash...

Calculate the airspace that you have available, be sure to deduct for the thickness of the enclosure in your calculations and the displacement of the subwoofer itself. A standard stamped steel frame 10 is around 114 cuin, and a standard stamped steel 12 is around 209 cuin. Then work from there to determine what combination will work best with the space that you have. This will be a much better approach than buying subs and then trying to squeeze them into your truck and hope that they work out.

Hope this helps...
 
Chris touched on the main reason for port whistle....most people that have no install or box fab experience fail to radius the port or even secure it. I ran into an install where the port was held in place by screws, but not tight and it rattled on the screws. For the novice, sealed usually results in the easiest design and build.

I've worked in and out of car audio since 88. My first small system was in 85. This was my first big system; 4 Autotek amps, Altec Lansing ALC-20 crossover, Sony CD and Changer, four 15" Rockford Fosgate subs in an extra cab Dodge Ram 50 and Fosgate separates.

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Ok guys, let me study all that info for a while and i will get back to you in about a day!

Well as far as the box goes, i am not going to be building it as I do not have the time to do it. I will go with the 12's so that I can get that nice, deep sound down low without just vibrations. As far as audio in general, i am definetly not up to speed. So if i were to get that box that you posted a link to, what combo (subs and the amp(s) ) is going to be the best bang for the buck.

I am one of those people, atleast on the truck, where i tend to buy something cheap, waste my money, and then go replace it with something that is much higher quality.:badidea:

I currently have an eclipse headunit with memphis in the doors and the sub. I have a kenwood double din on the way, thinking about re doing the door speakers also. I love my music, all kinds, and spend alot of time in the darn pickup, which is the reason im doing all this.

Thanks for all the help. Keep it coming!
:Cheer:

After this, the next plans call for adding some power to that darned 6.0!:poke:
 
If you are planning on buying a prefab enclosure, what volume is it? If it is on the smallish side you may get better results with 10s over 12s... Thats why I recommended checking the available space and selecting your subs based on the space available... remember optimized performance is better than crammed in performance...
 
They are saying it is good for those specific subs... They will fit in it, but there is no telling how it will sound... Is it well constructed, is it the proper size (airspace) for the subs??? Those are the important ?s

I really suggest you go to your local specialty car audio shop, not a Best Buy, but a shop that builds custom enclosures and is up to date on all the latest and greatest products... Explain to them your musical tastes and concerns and get their recommendation and listen to some of their demo vehicles so that you can be sure that you are on the same page musically...
 
Well i will go down there and talk with them this weekend then i will be back to let you know what they say!
 
I have seen my brother put 3 12's behind the seat of an 05 and not have any issues. By the way I have a custom box covered in gray vinyl with 2 Cadence shallow mount 12's for sale. The subs will hit the back of the seat if you turn them up real high or have too much power to them. They sounded great in my truck with a Memphis 500D amp.
 
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