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09-23-2019, 08:15 AM
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#1
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Name: Dbordenb
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 133
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Front axle u-joint replacement
Last night on an evening drive the wife heard a strange clicking coming from the passenger side front wheel area. Almost like a rock stuck in the tire because it would change frequency with the speed of the tire. After getting home and investigating I found the front axle u-joint has a good amount of play in it.
So my question would be, do I replace it with an OEM joint or a NAPA grease-able joint? Has anyone used the NAPA u-joints?
And when I am changing it do I need to put it in 4 wheel drive before I pull out the axle shaft? One YouTube video talked about with the vacuum lock hubs you need to place it in 4 wheel and I wasn’t sure if that applied to the 2014 2500 pickups.
__________________
2014 CCSB 2500 Laramie Longhorn
SOLD-2003 Quad Cab, 48re, Second Gen swap 64mm turbo, BMS injectors, Hamilton Cam, port and polished head, ARP studs
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09-23-2019, 10:12 AM
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#2
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Name: RD TRCTR
Title: Diesels, Burn Outs & Tits
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: MI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 652
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I just did this job on my 14.
Yes, put it in 4wd or you will have to pull the actuator to reinstall the right axle shaft.
I used the Spicer sealed u joint, available from O'Reilly's. 5-3212X is the part number.
__________________
2018 3500 G56 unicorn
2006 2500
Last edited by RD TRCTR; 09-23-2019 at 10:14 AM.
Reason: grammar
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09-23-2019, 11:29 AM
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#3
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Name: Dbordenb
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 133
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Thank you. I’ll use those u-joints then. How did everything come apart for you? I’ve read the worst part of this job is taking everything apart.
__________________
2014 CCSB 2500 Laramie Longhorn
SOLD-2003 Quad Cab, 48re, Second Gen swap 64mm turbo, BMS injectors, Hamilton Cam, port and polished head, ARP studs
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09-23-2019, 02:13 PM
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#4
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Name: RD TRCTR
Title: Diesels, Burn Outs & Tits
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: MI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 652
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Honestly, I did wheel bearings not long ago, so removing the axle shafts wasn't bad.
I have a 50 ton shop press, pressing out the old u joints took a lot of force. I wouldn't try removing the axle u joints with a Tiger tool or SnapOn BJP1 style press as it won't be able to do it.
__________________
2018 3500 G56 unicorn
2006 2500
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09-23-2019, 02:56 PM
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#5
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Name: Dbordenb
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 133
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I’ve got a 20 ton shop press. Think that will be enough? And I’m hoping the power steering trick will get the wheel bearings off.
__________________
2014 CCSB 2500 Laramie Longhorn
SOLD-2003 Quad Cab, 48re, Second Gen swap 64mm turbo, BMS injectors, Hamilton Cam, port and polished head, ARP studs
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09-24-2019, 06:50 AM
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#6
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Name: RD TRCTR
Title: Diesels, Burn Outs & Tits
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: MI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbordenb
I’ve got a 20 ton shop press. Think that will be enough? And I’m hoping the power steering trick will get the wheel bearings off.
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Only one way to find out... As with any shop press, I recommend standing the the side to miss any shrapnel...
That trick has always worked well for me also.
__________________
2018 3500 G56 unicorn
2006 2500
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09-25-2019, 08:00 AM
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#7
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Name: Dbordenb
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 133
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I’m still doing research on removing the old u joint and I’m reading using a press may be a bad idea because it could bend the ears on the yoke. Has anyone replaced their front axle u joints with the vice and hammer method?
__________________
2014 CCSB 2500 Laramie Longhorn
SOLD-2003 Quad Cab, 48re, Second Gen swap 64mm turbo, BMS injectors, Hamilton Cam, port and polished head, ARP studs
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09-25-2019, 11:41 AM
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#8
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Name: bracker8040
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbordenb
I’m still doing research on removing the old u joint and I’m reading using a press may be a bad idea because it could bend the ears on the yoke. Has anyone replaced their front axle u joints with the vice and hammer method?
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I’d be more inclined to use a press if available, than trying to beat it out with a hammer.
Also, I second the vote for Spicer u-joints. I’ve never used an SKF/Napa I joint that fit correctly and didn’t vibrate. Every time I’ve used one, I’ve ended up changing it shortly for a Spicer.
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09-25-2019, 12:26 PM
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#9
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Name: Dbordenb
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bracker8040
I’d be more inclined to use a press if available, than trying to beat it out with a hammer.
Also, I second the vote for Spicer u-joints. I’ve never used an SKF/Napa I joint that fit correctly and didn’t vibrate. Every time I’ve used one, I’ve ended up changing it shortly for a Spicer.
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Ok, thanks. I picked up the spicer u-joint mentioned above. I will just try to use the yoke ears for the support point when I’m using the press to get the old joint out. I don’t want to bend the ears together and make a bigger problem.
__________________
2014 CCSB 2500 Laramie Longhorn
SOLD-2003 Quad Cab, 48re, Second Gen swap 64mm turbo, BMS injectors, Hamilton Cam, port and polished head, ARP studs
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09-26-2019, 05:55 AM
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#10
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Name: Red Sleeper
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lone Star State
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbordenb
Has anyone replaced their front axle u joints with the vice and hammer method?
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I’ve always used the vice and hammer, or setup some metal plates and bessy clamps on the metal table. Then hammer away. Yes I’ve snapped a few yoke ears but felt the same would have happened in a press due to rust on the joint and cup.
Sometimes a sharp, blunt strike with the hammer breaks the cup loose in the ear easier than a constantly increasing force that a press would offer. Sometimes not. It’s all part of wrenching.
To each their own.
__________________
Nick J
'14 Silverado LTZ 5.3 4wd
'05 Cummins QCSB 4wd 48re
'91 Cummins w350 5spd
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09-26-2019, 06:32 AM
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#11
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Name: bracker8040
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sleeper
I’ve always used the vice and hammer, or setup some metal plates and bessy clamps on the metal table. Then hammer away. Yes I’ve snapped a few yoke ears but felt the same would have happened in a press due to rust on the joint and cup.
Sometimes a sharp, blunt strike with the hammer breaks the cup loose in the ear easier than a constantly increasing force that a press would offer. Sometimes not. It’s all part of wrenching.
To each their own.
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You’ve got a good point there, especially what you said about the shock from hitting it with a hammer versus just pushing on it.
On some really ugly ujoints I’ve cut the cross out, then knocked each cup out (with a hammer) individually. By cutting the cross out you only have to move one cup at a time (obviously).
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09-26-2019, 04:42 PM
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#12
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Name: Dbordenb
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 133
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I was able to press them out pretty easily. I tapped each cap with a hammer before trying to press them to try and give each one a little shock. The job must have been done before because everything came apart easily.
I am worried that I messed up when putting the new u-joint in. I made sure everything was straight and that all the needle bearings didn’t fall but after getting it all pressed in and the clips put into place it was very stiff. I figured it should move a little more freely so maybe I did something wrong.
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09-26-2019, 05:12 PM
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#13
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Name: bracker8040
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbordenb
I was able to press them out pretty easily. I tapped each cap with a hammer before trying to press them to try and give each one a little shock. The job must have been done before because everything came apart easily.
I am worried that I messed up when putting the new u-joint in. I made sure everything was straight and that all the needle bearings didn’t fall but after getting it all pressed in and the clips put into place it was very stiff. I figured it should move a little more freely so maybe I did something wrong.
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No, a good ujoint should be stiff to move by hand. If it just flops around easily, it will vibrate. Ask me how I know......SKF/Napa every time.
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09-26-2019, 05:19 PM
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#14
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Name: regcanfan
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2017
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Posts: 264
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If its extremely tight (have to pry it to get it to move) put all the clips in and tap the ears just a bit it will loosen it up some.
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09-26-2019, 05:55 PM
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#15
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Name: ironmax
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2013
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by regcanfan
If its extremely tight (have to pry it to get it to move) put all the clips in and tap the ears just a bit it will loosen it up some.
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A good wack on the ear always straightens chit out! You won't believe it after you hit that yoke. It's almost always guaranteed to get them seated and working smoothly
Sent from my SM-J260A using Tapatalk
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09-26-2019, 07:54 PM
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#16
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Name: Dbordenb
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 133
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That’s good to hear. I did it all correct then, it moved around but was stiff to move by hand.
__________________
2014 CCSB 2500 Laramie Longhorn
SOLD-2003 Quad Cab, 48re, Second Gen swap 64mm turbo, BMS injectors, Hamilton Cam, port and polished head, ARP studs
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09-27-2019, 06:16 AM
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#17
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Name: Red Sleeper
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lone Star State
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbordenb
That’s good to hear. I did it all correct then, it moved around but was stiff to move by hand.
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As they should be. Good job.
__________________
Nick J
'14 Silverado LTZ 5.3 4wd
'05 Cummins QCSB 4wd 48re
'91 Cummins w350 5spd
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