till you decide more what you want to do you can get alittle more out of it.
First put a boost elbow on the turbo or the cheaper route pinch the wastegate hose shut.
Then take the afc housing off, if it has never been messed with you will have to take the one break off screw out. I have found that a small chisel tapped into the head of the break off screw a few taps, then use a standard screwdriver and tap it in to the groove made from the chisel, works easiest for me to take that bolt out. Then remove the other three bolts two are 8mm head that go though the shut solenoid bracket, and the other is just a standard screwdriver headed bolt. Then push the shut off solenoid away from the afc and lift the afc out.
Then loosen the two screws holding the fuel plate in place and slide the plate forward, then retighten it down and put afc housing on and slide it all the way forward, and tighten it back down and replace the break off screw you removed form the housing with a philips head or standard head bolt, the same length ect.
Then remove the allen headed cap that is on the top of the afc. Inside is a star wheel spin it all the way till it stops moving. Use a standard screwdriver, and spin the wheel in the direction toward the motor, once it stops spinning in that direction, spin it the opposite way but go slow and count the clicks I have found that on my truck when it was lower HP and on my dad truck that if u count the click, till you get to 75 seams to work the best for the star wheel setting and then have the timing set to at least 14 or 14.5 that will get you for a bit then once you get a converter and valve body at least in the trans, (HTS is a great choice for this) Then change to a #5 plate the #5 has the same amount of fuel on top as a 0 but with way better low rpm control on fuel hope that helps you some and have fun.
Oh yes I forgot to add in you will have to take off the air intake and remove the injection line holder that is above the afc in order to do this.
