CTDYoungGun
Seth- Fuel Injection Guy
This is what I found too, the dovetail is rated to lift 10k but only carry 4k at half the dovetail length. Seems like wasted trailer length to me...
Gooseneck trailer features
- Thread starter CTDYoungGun
- Start date
This is what I found too, the dovetail is rated to lift 10k but only carry 4k at half the dovetail length. Seems like wasted trailer length to me...
takedown95
New member
Couple of thoughts. The hydro dove will support the back end of a pull truck or a full size Kubota. I think someone mentioned you could fit two vehicles and a support vehicle in a semi trailer. My experience is unless you have a lift for the support vehicle you can't fit all three in a 53' trailer. Anything over 53' is illegal without a permit in some states. Lastly each pull truck is just a shade under 22'. Even if they are touching you'll be 4' over and that's also illegal in some states.
BRE
New member
CTDYoungGun
Seth- Fuel Injection Guy
I haven't seen that yet but I'll take a look!
Depends on the class but ballpark ~1000lbs give or take a couple hundred. I'd guess a street truck would be around 60/40 front to rear axle weight
Thank you! I was suspect of the two vehicles plus a support vehicle in a 53' trailer statement. I also didn't know about the overhang being illegal in some states. I just assumed as long as total length was under 53' you'd be ok. Good info!
To the guys hollering about the triple axle idea, don't forget they will be air lift and a remote actuator is easy to build in- meaning the front or rear axle can be quickly and easily lifted before you make a turn which saves the tire scrubbing and wheel bearing wear issues.
Seems like a sliding/ traveling axle is sounding the best. It would allow a range of axle placement for loading and transport and if done correctly should be a lot lighter than the twin frame idea. The deck would still tilt, but it would only need to hinge a few feet from the front so a lot of steel framework gets eliminated.
CTDYoungGun
Seth- Fuel Injection Guy
Have any pictures of this contraption? I think I follow what you're saying and it sounds neat
J-Pipes
Active member
Clarify please, can't decide if you're saying it's great idea, or terrible? I like it over the full hydraulic dove because they have so much more behind the axle, I worry about the tail swinging out and catching something in tight quarters, such as pits at a pull/race. Hell somewhere I clipped the back corner of mine on something, never did figure out what though, just enough to pop the corner light in and scuff the paint.
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Blackmax123
New member
This is what I'm using. Bought it 36' with hydraulic disk brakes. It's a little heavier than I would be wanted but I love.
BRE
New member
Autocorrect got part of my post. I love the idea. It was supposed to say, I'm not sure there is any other way to have a trailer.
I too don't care for the tail swing like you stated.
Also depending on your air setup as well as bags, your axles may not lift one or the other and carry itself to make turns easier.
For instance, on class 8 stuff (I know, not exactly apples to apples) when we have spreads a lot of us have dump valves on the rear to make tight turns easier. However unless you have an over inflate switch for your other axle, or a triple bag setup, they won't pick themselves up. It usually just drops the whole trailer. Keep that in mind if you go to build your own.
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9724VF350
Tractor Guy
That's pretty slick. The only thing that I think needs improved on ( I think, it's hard to see from the video angle I was looking at) is that the front of the ramp when folded down should reach farther forward to reduce the tendency to fold the ramp up when loading something heavy. I realize that the hydraulic system may help prevent that, but it's easier on parts if the ramp is designed to prevent it.
CTDYoungGun
Seth- Fuel Injection Guy
Yea we're on the same page. My dad's spread axle cattle pot was a dump only on the rear axle with no lift.
I'm still talking with a few different air suspension companies to make sure they offer what I want. The design I have in mind is a main air bag for axle down and a small air bag for the lift (4 bags per axle). The remote control I want would flip from air down directly to air up. I do need to verify that won't be an issue and that the ride height valves on each axle/ plumbing/ air tank capacity will respond quickly enough to keep the trailer height from dropping while quickly lift the 3rd axle.
I'd only want to dump air from the axles when stationary. I'd have a manual valve back on the trailer to dump the whole system. Hopefully that makes sense
BRE
New member
Yep I'm with ya 100%. Our front lift axles are setup to either be up or down, no in between. Then we have a manual full dump valve on the trailer at the rear for when unloading.
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takedown95
New member
I know a lot of guys do it and I'm sure you'd be ok most of the time but coming back from Scheid a couple years back I got pulled over in Wisconsin for my Can Am sticking a foot past the dovetail. Didn't give me a ticket just a written warning.
4x4dually
Moderator
Becareful if you pick a hydro-dove tail. Mine is a 30' (21' + 9'). You can load a 4x4 Dodge without dragging, but a 2x4 Dodge will drag the pivot..at least a factory 2x4 2008 mega cab dually will. I had to cross center with the front tires and lift the back of my buddies truck when it died. I would say the angle is way too steep to load vehicles all the time. Equipment...no issues...unless it is raining. I can't hardly get my 2wd JD4020 to climb mine in the rain. It is slicker than owl schidt unless you want to tack some cleats on it which I don't.
The PJ will be almost the same if that's what you are looking at. And look at the safety catch under the dove. The one on my trailer sucks. You can actually push "down" on the remote and it will bind for a second and then pop past the safety and start to drop. I'm going to redo it someday and fix it. I do NOT trust loads on my trailer on the dove. It scares me. I've tried to rework the safety catch with a grinder and welder twice. It is a horrible design and hasn't worked since day one. I took it back to the dealer once to work on right after I got it. They made it worse. $.02
The PJ will be almost the same if that's what you are looking at. And look at the safety catch under the dove. The one on my trailer sucks. You can actually push "down" on the remote and it will bind for a second and then pop past the safety and start to drop. I'm going to redo it someday and fix it. I do NOT trust loads on my trailer on the dove. It scares me. I've tried to rework the safety catch with a grinder and welder twice. It is a horrible design and hasn't worked since day one. I took it back to the dealer once to work on right after I got it. They made it worse. $.02
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CTDYoungGun
Seth- Fuel Injection Guy
This brings up another feature I'm undecided on- decking. I'm definitely not going with a steel deck, I was leaning toward a rough cut lumber or that black wood lumber (the 2x8 with rubber inlay).
Any recommendations one way or the other?
4x4dually
Moderator
I'd love to have the rumber type smooth flooring, but it is slick when wet and heavy as schidt. I put the cleated flooring in my stock trailer from Livestock Rubber Flooring - Shelby Trailer Service LLC
It's expensive but will last an eternity. But...it's heavy and will need more cross bracing...so that is out.
Wood is light but will need replaced every now and then. At least you can replace one board at a time. I dump my used motor oil out of my truck on mine and let it soak. Then after it dries for a week in the sun, I power wash the residual off so it isn't as slick. Board will last a long time like that.
Metal floor is great, but is also slick when wet...and you can't just wood screws something down to it in a pinch...as if you needed to lag bolt so tie downs in or something.
Do wood. It's cheapest and lightest....just make them use quality lumber and not some untreated pine crap like the cheap-o trailers. Rough cut oak would rock. $.02
I'm rambling. I like trailers.
It's expensive but will last an eternity. But...it's heavy and will need more cross bracing...so that is out.
Wood is light but will need replaced every now and then. At least you can replace one board at a time. I dump my used motor oil out of my truck on mine and let it soak. Then after it dries for a week in the sun, I power wash the residual off so it isn't as slick. Board will last a long time like that.
Metal floor is great, but is also slick when wet...and you can't just wood screws something down to it in a pinch...as if you needed to lag bolt so tie downs in or something.
Do wood. It's cheapest and lightest....just make them use quality lumber and not some untreated pine crap like the cheap-o trailers. Rough cut oak would rock. $.02
I'm rambling. I like trailers.
06 DIESEL
Dead Eye Firearms LLC
I put rough cut oak on my bumper pull trailer, while it was way heavier than the pine the factory had put on it I have never had any issue with slipping on the surface. Just treat it with waterseal once a year or so and it will last as long as the trailer. I tried the used motor oil, apparently mine is too dirty, even after baking in the sun for a week if I touched the boards I turned black.