The Offical FASS/HPFP/DDRP Question's Thread

hey Dan I have a question about the ddrp. If I was to install 1/2 inch lines from the tank to inlet of the ddrp, would it be able to lift that volume of fuel up to the engine?
 
hey Dan I have a question about the ddrp. If I was to install 1/2 inch lines from the tank to inlet of the ddrp, would it be able to lift that volume of fuel up to the engine?

My name is Jim.....Dan is no longer in the Warranty department. but i can answer your questions.

If you use a suction tube in the tank then it should be able to draw it up. You might have to get the gear inside wet first by spraying some WD-40 into the inlet side of the DDRP but after that it should be fine. There have been others that have done this with some success.
 
Question on warranty:

Are they transferrable?

I'm trying to sell my 150/180-2014, and alot of people are wondering if there would be any warranty for it. (Mine is less than 2 years old.)

Thank you!
 
Question on warranty:

Are they transferrable?

I'm trying to sell my 150/180-2014, and alot of people are wondering if there would be any warranty for it. (Mine is less than 2 years old.)

Thank you!

Unfortunately, no it isn't transferable. If whomever buys your pump needs work on the pump we will of course support the product but doing it in an out of warranty status.
 
where can i find a L mount bracket for a 95/150 the one on our tow rig snaped in two tonight
 
i have a 99 ford f350 and i am working on doin a 24V swap that has a Hot Rod VP44 fuel pump and mach 6 injectors what fuel pump would you recommend for this set up??
 
Is the 95 gph pump any quieter than the 150 gph pump on the fuel system?

And how do I know which size I need? What are the factors? Is it a HP number or injector size or what?
 
i have a 99 ford f350 and i am working on doin a 24V swap that has a Hot Rod VP44 fuel pump and mach 6 injectors what fuel pump would you recommend for this set up??

With the VP44 IP your gonna want to go with the FASS system for the 98.5 - 04 Dodge's. The part number for that is HDD08150G - That should be good up to about 650 HP. Good luck!
 
Is the 95 gph pump any quieter than the 150 gph pump on the fuel system?


The short answer is no. The only difference between the 95 Series (Titanium Series) and the 150 Series (HD Series) is the size of the pumps themselves. The HD series is a bit larger with larger filters. PSI, Mounting Location, Fittings and installation kits are the same.

And how do I know which size I need? What are the factors? Is it a HP number or injector size or what?

As stated above the only difference is size. The number you need to be concerned with is GPH.

95 GPF - Good for up to 450-500 HP
150 GPH - Good for up to 650-700 HP
180 GPH and above will feed anything else.

Good luck with your choice!
 
What type of jacked up threads are on this DDRP? A 3/8 npt won't go in it and NAPA don't have anything that will either. Another item, I don't think thread cutting oil is used in the machining of this pump on my desk. Theads look like hell.
 
12mm sons-a-bishes. DAM YOU METRIC!!! I got a new box of parts from Vulcan.....three fittings that I can't use and enough different pieces to get it all put together.....except one fitting. Dammit man. Draw straw with 1/2 threaded ports, 1/2 hose barbs, 1/2 hose, a piece of 5/16 hose, a 3/8 to 3/8 barb fitting, a male 1/2 to 1/2 fitting, a flare 1/2 to 1/2 fitting, all this, and I am still missing a link!!!!! :bang

To clarify the above post, the 12mm threads on the in and out ports look like hell. I figure the machine shop surely to God could do a better job than that.
 
12mm sons-a-bishes. DAM YOU METRIC!!! I got a new box of parts from Vulcan.....three fittings that I can't use and enough different pieces to get it all put together.....except one fitting. Dammit man. Draw straw with 1/2 threaded ports, 1/2 hose barbs, 1/2 hose, a piece of 5/16 hose, a 3/8 to 3/8 barb fitting, a male 1/2 to 1/2 fitting, a flare 1/2 to 1/2 fitting, all this, and I am still missing a link!!!!! :bang

To clarify the above post, the 12mm threads on the in and out ports look like hell. I figure the machine shop surely to God could do a better job than that.

The input and output of the pump should be the same as the stock banjo bolts that came off of your original lift pump. If the threads are that messed up you can send it back to me so that we can fix it for you.
 
The pump works great! The threads don't really matter since it uses the sealing washers, but quality could check them a little closer. $.02

The pump holds 20 PSI at the IP inlet at idle and crusing. I haven't really opened the truck up yet cause I think I still have a boost leak. I also mounted a 1/4 piece of rubber between the frame and the pump bracket.....I can't even hear the pump running. I was worried because when I bumped the starter to prime, I couldn't hear it....but it was going! Nice pump guys.
 
Hey Jim, I am running the 150 150 pump on my truck. Just as of recently I have been getting a lack of fuel pressure. I will elaborate on this, with no other changes on my truck I used to be able to set it to around 16 to 18 psi and it would stay there no problem even under WOT. Suddenly it decided to only sit at about 10 even though nothing else changed,,, so I adjusted my valve setup (that Dan helped me design) and even wide open now it will only hit 23 psi,, and it will dip alot when I hit WOT. By half track my engine is starved.

Is this a warranty thing? I have done all the testing, changed the way it sucks from the tank, changed the filters, checked the power coming to the pump,,

Also what does it take to change this pump to work on a chev (it is on a dodge right now)?

Thank you

Kevin
 
Hey Jim, I am running the 150 150 pump on my truck. Just as of recently I have been getting a lack of fuel pressure. I will elaborate on this, with no other changes on my truck I used to be able to set it to around 16 to 18 psi and it would stay there no problem even under WOT. Suddenly it decided to only sit at about 10 even though nothing else changed,,, so I adjusted my valve setup (that Dan helped me design) and even wide open now it will only hit 23 psi,, and it will dip alot when I hit WOT. By half track my engine is starved.

Is this a warranty thing? I have done all the testing, changed the way it sucks from the tank, changed the filters, checked the power coming to the pump,,

Also what does it take to change this pump to work on a chev (it is on a dodge right now)?

Thank you

Kevin


Kevin,

I may have already replied to you about this but lets start here....Troubleshootin guide

To answer your last question....it would take a spring change to drop the PSI to make that pump work on a Duramax. Duramax's like low PSI (Around 6-10) While Dodges, even with the VP44 like around 12 - 20 PSI. So a simple soring change would do the trick. :rockwoot:
 
Thanks Jim, you may have answered me, but I cant find where I posted my question before,, LOL (my bad) I have went throught the troubleshooting guide, did the hose in a 5 gal etc. even had the fuel tank apart to verify the fuel level. When the pump was origionally installed on my truck the shop hooked it up the the factor lift pump, which eventually died,, so I tore that apart and removed the lift pump and extended the hose to the bottom of the tank, which at least let the truck run.

I am quite sure that I am going to have to run a bigger pump as my truck is building and will build more HP than what the 150 150 is going to be able to supply, but I would like to get it working right before I put it on my duramax.

Thanks

Kevin
 
Hey I just got an old, unused 150 series pump which was for a 12v Cummins. The serial number is 6251. Could you tell me which GPH this pump is rated for?

I also have a couple other questions for my rather unique install. The pump will be supplying fuel for a '97 Dodge Cummins and this engine is in a '84 Ford F250 body... which has 2 fuel tanks. Instead of routing the return from the pump to the filler neck of one of the 2 tanks, can I just tee it into the return line after the tank selector? That way I would not be transferring fuel from one tank to the other...

Also the hardware kit looked complete in that it was still sealed but it looks like it is missing the brass 90 degree elbow which screws into the stock filter. Do I need this or can I just route the fuel from the E port of the pump to the normal fuel inlet? What is the angle for? Thanks
 
Hey I just got an old, unused 150 series pump which was for a 12v Cummins. The serial number is 6251. Could you tell me which GPH this pump is rated for?

According to that Serial Number, That pump will move 95 GPH. That's perfect for your truck.

I also have a couple other questions for my rather unique install. The pump will be supplying fuel for a '97 Dodge Cummins and this engine is in a '84 Ford F250 body... which has 2 fuel tanks. Instead of routing the return from the pump to the filler neck of one of the 2 tanks, can I just tee it into the return line after the tank selector? That way I would not be transferring fuel from one tank to the other...

You can but you may have PSI issues. The return line feeding into the stock fuel line could possibly cause a restriction which will raise PSI. Just keep an eye on it and you should be fine.

Also the hardware kit looked complete in that it was still sealed but it looks like it is missing the brass 90 degree elbow which screws into the stock filter. Do I need this or can I just route the fuel from the E port of the pump to the normal fuel inlet? What is the angle for? Thanks

Im not too sure what your talking about. If you have a FASS system you should be by passing the stock filter housing and feeding the IP directly. There is a 90 Degree mandrel bent piece (Part number PL-1003) the we use to connect the IP with our pump. If you need that please let me know and we can get one out to you.
 
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