Paint Questions?
- Thread starter LittleRed
- Start date
partsguy662
You know damm right
If you're going for a "factory" or better refinish job, base/clear is what you'll want to go with. If you're doing a "quickie" repaint, single stage will be fine.
Single stage paints (and I'm going on the assumption you're talking a catalyzed single stage) work well on almost anything. Their relative ease of application makes them desirable for many industrial applications such as trailers, farm equipment, etc. Of course, their main selling point is you put your 2-3 coats of product on, wait until it dries, and.....you're done. What happens in a single stage system is the clear is already in the color (and as paints are getting higher priced, there is more clear than color in the paint...not really a good thing when you stop and think about it.) What you're relying on with a single stage system is this: as it dries, the clear "floats" to the top of your color. Using the correct reducer for the temperature of your material and surrounding area is critical to get a quality finish with single stage because of the chemical make-up of the paint. It's not rocket science by any means, but it does take some planning and some practice to get it right.
(This is a tractor done in single stage.)
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3920&d=1185059244
Base clear systems are 2 different components as the name suggests. Your base is simply raw color with no protection in it. Simply spraying a base coat and failing to follow with clear will leave a dull, "soft" finish that will not stand up to the elements. The clear coat is what has the catalyst (hardener) in it that makes the finish durable.
Applying base, what you're looking for is uniform coverage. You simply want the color to be the same across the entire surface of the vehicle. Keep in mind, there won't be a shine to the paint when you spray it.
Your clear, as mentioned earlier, is your protection (and your shine). As with single stage paints, clear is often reduced or catalyzed according to temperature. Here again, some planning and preparation is required so you have the right components for the environment you're going to be in.
(This car was painted in Base/Clear)
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2414&d=1172793309
It is very difficult, if not impossible, to tell the difference between a well-sprayed single stage and a well-sprayed base/clear finish. Overall, base/clear will most likely hold up longer against the elements and be easier to take care of. (Wet sanding and buffing single stage can be very tricky and often leads to disaster when done wrong.)
If you're planning on doing this job yourself, get tech sheets on every product you buy from your paint supplier. If they won't give you a tech sheet, shop elsewhere. Tech sheets give you all of your drying, sanding, reduction, spray psi, product compatibility, and other information that are critical for getting your job done right....the first time...
1lowdiesel
New member
great info Scott!! i'm in the same boat myself right now.
impmouse
loaf
are you going with the same color ,,,, and what color is the truck ,,,, with reds, blacks, and whites you can paint it in sections .."like bed ,front end , doors,, ect".... to bring the largeness down of doing it all at one time ... but if its a metalic color or any color that has metalics or pearls you would need to paint it all at one time for color match .... when do ya thing your going to start painting it ?
partsguy662
You know damm right
Do you have to? No. Then again, you don't have to tape off the glass and such either.. LOL
Removing the box would be the best option. There is no way you could spray between the box and cab and achieve a quality finish on that area.
TooMuchBoost
Comp Diesel Sponsor
Paints/coatings are very expensive nowadays so I would look at the DIY'er angle very carefully. If you are going red again keep in mind it's not uncommon for a gallon of red basecoat from one of the big name paint companies higher-end paint systems/brands to cost $400, $500 even $600 per gallon! Plus another $40-$80 for a gallon of their recommended urethane reducer or basemaker. Lower-end stuff is still going to run $200 to $300 per gallon plus reducer.
Keep in mind that you will need ample amounts of clean, dry and oil-free air coming from a true 5 or more HP compressor that ideally has a 60+ gallon tank and at a very min 7.5 CFM.
Just my .02. Good luck!
TooMuchBoost
Comp Diesel Sponsor
impmouse
loaf
as far as supplies i did mine with half gal of base which will give you 4 qts reduced of color ,,, clear i needed gal and 1 qt to do it all and qt of hardner (i use slow or hot weather ) i didn't use reducer in the clear at all i just used the hardner because i have better luck with the clear laying out nice and flat ... but non the less you will have a good penny in supplies ,, all the paint ,tape and ect my cost was around 900.00
Scooter's Roofing
New member
candy, flake, and lace! :hehe: