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Old 10-13-2020, 01:58 PM   #1
J-Pipes
 
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Tractor batteries

Dad has been fighting electrical issues on the 4600 Ford for a while now, and is wondering if someone could explain to him, why the battery for a tractor needs to be so huge physically?

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2000 Dodge ext cab short bed, 6spd.
 
Old 10-13-2020, 02:19 PM   #2
Signature600
 
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Because it's a ford and doesn't start for chit?


Honestly, my personal opinion is that they put plenty of battery in things back in the day because they had space. Other things it didn't have nearly enough battery.
Chris
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Old 10-13-2020, 02:24 PM   #3
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older batts weren't as good either..size meant more plates..more amps..longer life before they were flat..when ts zero outside in the middle of the pasture and the cows need fed..that ***** better start
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rip wrongway...
 
Old 10-13-2020, 02:49 PM   #4
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Yeah that's kinda what I told him, he could probably go to one or two truck batteries and be fine. There's no glow plugs or heater grids on it, so it just needs to crank.
Oh, and don't be hating on the blue Chris, you know that series from late thousands, when the 4000 went 3cyl, up to 30 series, like 4630, are some of the best out there! Not much for bells and whistles, but they just work. Not just the 4000 class size, but 2600 to 7600. Just dont see near as many things to watch for on them when researching.

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2000 Dodge ext cab short bed, 6spd.
 
Old 10-14-2020, 07:53 AM   #5
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Recently removed two batteries and several feet of old cables and threw them in the trash. Went to one battery and mounted it right next to the starter. There's not even enough battery cable now to whip a dog. One of the best mods this heap of sh1t has ever seen. Starts like a dream for once.

One the biggest problems with these multi-battery setups in my opinion is that it takes so much cable and so many connections. Voltage drop over long lengths and keeping an extra set of posts clean has always been foremost in my head on why NOT to do those types of setups.

IMG_0200.jpg

IMG_0224.jpg
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Old 10-14-2020, 08:46 AM   #6
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Our early 70’s Ford 3000 is a tank. A good friend has a ‘48 8N that runs even better. Might be the only Fords I’ve ever liked haha.
 
Old 10-14-2020, 09:18 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4dually View Post
Recently removed two batteries and several feet of old cables and threw them in the trash. Went to one battery and mounted it right next to the starter. There's not even enough battery cable now to whip a dog. One of the best mods this heap of sh1t has ever seen. Starts like a dream for once.

One the biggest problems with these multi-battery setups in my opinion is that it takes so much cable and so many connections. Voltage drop over long lengths and keeping an extra set of posts clean has always been foremost in my head on why NOT to do those types of setups.

Attachment 75243

Attachment 75244

Amzing how changing the starter makes them start better
 
Old 10-14-2020, 09:51 AM   #8
jasonc

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I use marine deep cycle batts in everything, from trucks to tractors.

They can be discharged over and over, and still take a quick charge and come right back. Also around 100 bucks at almost any parts store for a 27series.
 
Old 10-14-2020, 10:48 AM   #9
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Amzing how changing the starter makes them start better
Ya, that too.

We pulled the tractor in to split it for a clutch job. After putting it back together, the starter was hosed and wouldn't even turn it over. Not sure WTF happened to it between one day and the next when it started to move it into the shop. Damn Murphy I guess.
 
Old 10-14-2020, 12:20 PM   #10
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Last I talked to him, he was bolting the starter back on. Guy that rebuilt it, said the starter itself looked new, but the solenoid was junk. He was going to check the battery to see if it had lost any juice since it'd been unhooked for over a week. He just wants it right, kinda a pain to work on with the front end loader.

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Old 10-14-2020, 04:51 PM   #11
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Well, still broke. Got the starter back in, battery stayed up while unhooked. But once he hits the key, it drops to zero volts on the meter. Thinking maybe a mouse got into the wiring under the dash?

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Old 10-14-2020, 08:25 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Pipes View Post
Yeah that's kinda what I told him, he could probably go to one or two truck batteries and be fine. There's no glow plugs or heater grids on it, so it just needs to crank.
Oh, and don't be hating on the blue Chris, you know that series from late thousands, when the 4000 went 3cyl, up to 30 series, like 4630, are some of the best out there! Not much for bells and whistles, but they just work. Not just the 4000 class size, but 2600 to 7600. Just dont see near as many things to watch for on them when researching.

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The hour meter doesn't work on our 7740, it quit at 4500. She has to have 20k hours and keeps plugging away.. beast.
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puzzy, tune it.

I don't own anything stock, from engines to boobies I've modded them all. Life is too short to live with mediocre chit.
 
Old 10-15-2020, 08:20 AM   #13
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Turning more hydraulics/driveline/ect at cranking vs a truck is a bit of a factor, and 50 year old starter design, even if rebuilt, is another.

A good high torque starter, good cables, and a good group 31 is typically pretty good at starting anything under 500 cid.
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Old 10-15-2020, 12:06 PM   #14
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Cables are new, switch is new, and battery isn't very old either. Only 201 C.I. engine, no glow plugs or grid heater, can't think it should be that hard to crank over.

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