Help cutting front coils - Page 3 - Competition Diesel.Com

bateman · 11-15-2021, 12:48 PM

Pit boss pellet. Got pretty cold that night tho. 33° and almost 12 pounds of meat.

bateman · 11-15-2021, 12:53 PM

Driveline shop that I’ve never had anything but issues with of course sucked again. Rocket City Off-road needs to stick with front end lifts on the bro dozers. Driveshaft has 6 giant ass weights on it compared to the one dime sized factory weight. Knew it was going to suck and it indeed does suck.

Going to pull some measurements and try to find a used factory shaft to buy.

thatguy69 · 11-15-2021, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bateman

Driveline shop that I’ve never had anything but issues with of course sucked again. Rocket City Off-road needs to stick with front end lifts on the bro dozers. Driveshaft has 6 giant ass weights on it compared to the one dime sized factory weight. Knew it was going to suck and it indeed does suck.

Going to pull some measurements and try to find a used factory shaft to buy.

My buddy was just complaining how the colder weather really extends his cooking time on his pellet smoker. And that does suck, I go to an old guy an hour north of me for driveshafts and he does great work and cheaper than dirt. Not sure what I'm going to do when he decides to give it up.

bateman · 11-16-2021, 03:39 PM

After some more time laying under the truck staring at shit I’ve come to the conclusion my driveshaft angles are not appropriate. Driveshaft angle out of the tcase is slightly up. Pinion does not match (equal but opposite angle).

Now I’m confused. Reading that 2wd axles are different from 4wd. Shock mount angles and apparently pinion angles although I can’t find a clear answer. Frustrating how little info is out there for these trucks on various topics when compared to other platforms I’ve played with.

Shocks looks like they got 2” of travel before bottoming out. Not a problem yet but not optimum. $300 for shocks that I’ll likely be replacing. I do not want the shocks to be the bump stop when I finally hit a dip or pot hole.

Current plan is to find a 2wd truck and lay under it and look at a few things. Hopefully I can get these bugs worked out fairly easily.

jasonc · 11-16-2021, 04:36 PM

You want your rearend pinion pointing 2 to 3° down to get the most out of the Caltracs.

bateman · 11-16-2021, 04:39 PM

Well pointing down sure as hell ain’t gonna work. The driveshaft is in an upward angle leaving the tcase. So the rule I’ve always went by tells me my pinion gonna need to be pointed up by nearly the same amount (less 2-3 degrees for movement under power)

bateman · 11-16-2021, 04:42 PM

Hope this helps. I always say I can show you better than tell you.

jasonc · 11-16-2021, 04:47 PM

The angles at each end need to match as close as possible.
So if the tcase output is slightly pointed up, you dont want to aim the rear end pinion straight up at it.

Also if your serious about caltracs working as they can, need to roll that pinion down 2 to 3.

bateman · 11-16-2021, 04:49 PM

Added to my drawing. Maybe this will explain better.

bateman · 11-16-2021, 04:50 PM

It’s gotta be angled up to match the front.

Pinion is currently dead level or possibly up a degree or two. But it’s still probably 4° from matching the front angle.

Maybe changing my trans mount will help a degree or two. It looks rough.

jasonc · 11-16-2021, 04:56 PM

That wont work well at all with caltracs, gotta have the pinion negative.

Also remember caltracs under a load working as they should will lift/seperate the rear end. So dont try to get your angles dead on matched just sitting.

I've been running caltracs a good while, not just talking out my ass.

bateman · 11-16-2021, 04:59 PM

Thanks for the help Jason.

I know you know your shit so hope I didn’t come off wrong way. Just making sure I was making sense.

Going to dig around and see if I can find some info from 2wd guys. Should be same ride height but length of a t case might make the difference. Shit I hope I don’t have to Jack this thing back up what a waste of time and money.

jasonc · 11-16-2021, 05:03 PM

I just started mine by welding the rearend pads at negative 2.
Then drove the truck and checked for vibrations.

Then adjusted my trans mount a little to fine tune it.

Stock trans crossmember and lowered similiar to yours.

bateman · 11-16-2021, 05:05 PM

Yea I might have to cut them perches off and reweld. Dang. Oh well it’s just a little time and welding rod.

bateman · 11-16-2021, 05:06 PM

Wonder if my trans mount is real f’d up. I can see that thing sagging enough for 2-3° that shouldn’t be there

jasonc · 11-16-2021, 05:18 PM

Probably more your engine mounts. Sagging

bateman · 11-16-2021, 05:30 PM

Yea could be. I’ll be in the garage in the morning seeing what I can see.

bateman · 11-17-2021, 02:02 PM

Well the trans mount is definitely shot.

Angles are a bit off but it is nothing crazy. I’m going to try my buddy’s driveshaft and see if anything changes. All the threads on here of people doing exactly what I did and I haven’t seen any mention of angle probs. Unless the perches are welded different it should be exactly like a 2wd Is setup.

jasonc · 11-17-2021, 04:19 PM

Yeah I'd say that mount has had it, ha.

Throw a driveshaft in it, bet it will be close to fine.

bateman · 11-17-2021, 04:34 PM

Yea my buddy left the keys to his truck for me so maybe I can run out in the morning and give it a shot.

The yoke phasing seems right on my shaft so maybe I was right with my first ASSumption that the place that did the shaft just didn’t balance it well. I just really don’t see these angles causing such a vibe but I’m no expert.

Trans mount will be ordered as soon as I pick one.

11-15-2021, 12:48 PM	#41
bateman Name: bateman Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Alabama Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,677	Pit boss pellet. Got pretty cold that night tho. 33° and almost 12 pounds of meat.

11-15-2021, 12:53 PM	#42
bateman Name: bateman Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Alabama Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,677	Driveline shop that I’ve never had anything but issues with of course sucked again. Rocket City Off-road needs to stick with front end lifts on the bro dozers. Driveshaft has 6 giant ass weights on it compared to the one dime sized factory weight. Knew it was going to suck and it indeed does suck. Going to pull some measurements and try to find a used factory shaft to buy.

11-16-2021, 03:39 PM	#44
bateman Name: bateman Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Alabama Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,677	After some more time laying under the truck staring at shit I’ve come to the conclusion my driveshaft angles are not appropriate. Driveshaft angle out of the tcase is slightly up. Pinion does not match (equal but opposite angle). Now I’m confused. Reading that 2wd axles are different from 4wd. Shock mount angles and apparently pinion angles although I can’t find a clear answer. Frustrating how little info is out there for these trucks on various topics when compared to other platforms I’ve played with. Shocks looks like they got 2” of travel before bottoming out. Not a problem yet but not optimum. $300 for shocks that I’ll likely be replacing. I do not want the shocks to be the bump stop when I finally hit a dip or pot hole. Current plan is to find a 2wd truck and lay under it and look at a few things. Hopefully I can get these bugs worked out fairly easily.

11-16-2021, 04:36 PM	#45
jasonc Name: jasonc Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Nov 2009 Member`s Gallery Posts: 4,412	You want your rearend pinion pointing 2 to 3° down to get the most out of the Caltracs.

11-16-2021, 04:39 PM	#46
bateman Name: bateman Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Alabama Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,677	Well pointing down sure as hell ain’t gonna work. The driveshaft is in an upward angle leaving the tcase. So the rule I’ve always went by tells me my pinion gonna need to be pointed up by nearly the same amount (less 2-3 degrees for movement under power)

11-16-2021, 04:47 PM	#48
jasonc Name: jasonc Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Nov 2009 Member`s Gallery Posts: 4,412	The angles at each end need to match as close as possible. So if the tcase output is slightly pointed up, you dont want to aim the rear end pinion straight up at it. Also if your serious about caltracs working as they can, need to roll that pinion down 2 to 3.

11-16-2021, 04:50 PM	#50
bateman Name: bateman Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Alabama Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,677	It’s gotta be angled up to match the front. Pinion is currently dead level or possibly up a degree or two. But it’s still probably 4° from matching the front angle. Maybe changing my trans mount will help a degree or two. It looks rough.

11-16-2021, 04:56 PM	#51
jasonc Name: jasonc Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Nov 2009 Member`s Gallery Posts: 4,412	That wont work well at all with caltracs, gotta have the pinion negative. Also remember caltracs under a load working as they should will lift/seperate the rear end. So dont try to get your angles dead on matched just sitting. I've been running caltracs a good while, not just talking out my ass.

11-16-2021, 04:59 PM	#52
bateman Name: bateman Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Alabama Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,677	Thanks for the help Jason. I know you know your shit so hope I didn’t come off wrong way. Just making sure I was making sense. Going to dig around and see if I can find some info from 2wd guys. Should be same ride height but length of a t case might make the difference. Shit I hope I don’t have to Jack this thing back up what a waste of time and money.

11-16-2021, 05:03 PM	#53
jasonc Name: jasonc Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Nov 2009 Member`s Gallery Posts: 4,412	I just started mine by welding the rearend pads at negative 2. Then drove the truck and checked for vibrations. Then adjusted my trans mount a little to fine tune it. Stock trans crossmember and lowered similiar to yours.

11-16-2021, 05:05 PM	#54
bateman Name: bateman Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Alabama Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,677	Yea I might have to cut them perches off and reweld. Dang. Oh well it’s just a little time and welding rod.

11-16-2021, 05:06 PM	#55
bateman Name: bateman Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Alabama Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,677	Wonder if my trans mount is real f’d up. I can see that thing sagging enough for 2-3° that shouldn’t be there

11-16-2021, 05:18 PM	#56
jasonc Name: jasonc Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Nov 2009 Member`s Gallery Posts: 4,412	Probably more your engine mounts. Sagging

11-16-2021, 05:30 PM	#57
bateman Name: bateman Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Alabama Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,677	Yea could be. I’ll be in the garage in the morning seeing what I can see.

11-17-2021, 04:19 PM	#59
jasonc Name: jasonc Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Nov 2009 Member`s Gallery Posts: 4,412	Yeah I'd say that mount has had it, ha. Throw a driveshaft in it, bet it will be close to fine.

11-17-2021, 04:34 PM	#60
bateman Name: bateman Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Alabama Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,677	Yea my buddy left the keys to his truck for me so maybe I can run out in the morning and give it a shot. The yoke phasing seems right on my shaft so maybe I was right with my first ASSumption that the place that did the shaft just didn’t balance it well. I just really don’t see these angles causing such a vibe but I’m no expert. Trans mount will be ordered as soon as I pick one.