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Old 11-25-2021, 04:50 PM   #1
Austincarnut

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NEW ARP STUDS Valve Cover Fit

Have any of you guys ran into fitment issues on the new version ARP studs? They are supposedly made so that the stock valve covers fit nicely without having to machine anything. I cannot fit any of the covers. Are there any aftermarket covers that accommodate the studs?
 
Old 11-25-2021, 05:58 PM   #2
jasonc

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Other than machining the pedestels down, there isn't room.

Maybe try them without the washer under the nuts.
 
Old 11-26-2021, 09:11 AM   #3
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Yeah you have to machine the pedestals for them to have the clearance to the valve covers. Some people have tried to do it without machining the pedestals and not using the washer under the nut but I think you’ll have to grind out the valve cover webbing over the stud for that to work. The machining is supposed to be .200” deep, removing the washer is only going to save you about .100”. If you upgrade to the ag dual valve covers with the breather they have more clearance.
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Old 11-27-2021, 07:13 PM   #4
Austincarnut

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I was told these are supposed to fit without machining anything
 
Old 11-27-2021, 09:27 PM   #5
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The directions that come with arp studs say different.
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puzzy, tune it.

I don't own anything stock, from engines to boobies I've modded them all. Life is too short to live with mediocre chit.
 
Old 11-28-2021, 05:07 PM   #6
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What’s the p/n on these supposedly new style studs? I haven’t heard of them.
 
Old 11-28-2021, 07:44 PM   #7
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They’ve been the only style they make for the last 8-10 years. At least that I know of, and you have to machine the pedestals for them.
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5” exhaust w/ Jones 5050XL
 
Old 11-29-2021, 07:28 PM   #8
Austincarnut

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That's what I thought, I have never heard of a different stud set. The vender told me they were a straight install. The problem is not the nut interference, the stud is about 1.5mm too tall. That is with the webbing removed from the valve covers.

Better question: have any of you guys even cut down the block side to achieve stud clearance? I know with their rare space metal material, some compromise is expected when improperly heating the studs.
 
Old 11-29-2021, 08:02 PM   #9
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I think you are scratching where there ain’t no itch. I’d bet everyone who has spent the $400 on studs either buys the pedestals machined or takes theirs to be machined. Grinding the stud down just sounds retarded to me. If it is really a deal breaker just sell the studs and over torque a set of factory bolts.
 
Old 11-30-2021, 05:08 AM   #10
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bateman, He is saying it's the overall length of the stud itself, if that's the case there's debris in the bottom of the hole or you need to bottom tap to get the depth. Is this on all 6 holes? 1.5mm in english is just under a 1/16 of an inch i would say you can take that off the bottom of the stud if you cant get the hole clean.
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Old 11-30-2021, 09:04 AM   #11
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Another vote for the bottom-tap/cleaning fix.
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Old 11-30-2021, 09:57 AM   #12
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I see now Tman.

Is it possible to get in there without removing the head?
 
Old 11-30-2021, 06:25 PM   #13
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yes, pencil magnet. or can use a screwdriver with some grease. as for the tap i bet a 1/4 drive would get in there with a tap to clean up. but if hes only missing by 1/16 im betting its just grime down there.
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Old 11-30-2021, 06:31 PM   #14
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Yea I was meaning the tap I bet the 1/4 drive would work. My bolts were pretty nasty when I pulled them
 
Old 12-01-2021, 01:31 PM   #15
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That’s what I used to bottom tap mine was a 1/4” ratchet and extensions. There is quite a bit to bottom tap.
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'96 2500 4x4 5sp. 3” Full Long arm lift w/35's
ValAir DD Clutch w/ Input
DFI 5x.012’s, O-ringed, 625’s
Hamilton 178/208, pushrods, PDD street springs, S362sxe/.7WG

‘12 LML crew cab swb 4x4 RC 3.5” lift with 33’s
Anarchy tune
5” exhaust w/ Jones 5050XL
 
Old 12-01-2021, 07:51 PM   #16
Austincarnut

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I have a spotless threaded block to the bottom of the holes, no debris, no shit interfering. So after a frustrating Q&A w/ ARP, I am now thinking the pedestal studs might be a custom order set that was somehow mixed up. the 6 studs are tapered on the ends. From what I can see on all their pics, the kits show squared off bottoms on the studs. Can anyone confirm this as true?

Last edited by Austincarnut; 12-01-2021 at 07:53 PM.
 
Old 12-02-2021, 04:34 AM   #17
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Pretty sure my 625 studs were threaded all the way to the bottom. I do have a set of a1 studs back in the shop that have a nipple on the bottom before the threads start. A1, H-11 and L19 were supposed to be an equal or close to equal for a 625. were the bolts new in the box? Here is a pic of a haisley L-19 studs for reference.
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2001.5 ppump allison 11.399@ 117.90 6850#
1997 rcsb 12v 6.7 9.38 @ 146.54
 
Old 12-02-2021, 05:14 AM   #18
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Late to edit, When you say spotless to the bottom of the hole did you use a standard tap, bottom tap or no tap at all and just blew it out? i bet a bottom tap gets better then a 1/4 inch deeper. Not questioning your ability but have to ask.....
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Old 12-02-2021, 08:40 PM   #19
Austincarnut

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tman yessir, I appreciate the feedback, no thin skin here! I have bottom tapped holes to the bottom prior to assembly. I have about 2.25mm interference after remeasuring.
 
Old 12-03-2021, 06:13 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Austincarnut View Post
tman yessir, I appreciate the feedback, no thin skin here! I have bottom tapped holes to the bottom prior to assembly. I have about 2.25mm interference after remeasuring.
Might be a stupid question, but are you checking valve cover clearance with a gasket installed ?
 
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