Triangulated 4 link options

shortbusdriver said:
Looking at your setup vs a triangulated version doesnt look stronger to me.

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I don't have one on. My 4link is a totally different animal. Not sure how instant center works with triangular. Mine is incomplete in my picture as well.

Referring to this rather than a traditional panhard
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I've only seen triangular on rock crawlers. Never for racing.
 
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I could see you didnt have one installed yet in the pics and knew what you were talking about. Its just looking at each the double triangular setup just seems alot beefier. I know just looking at most of the 4 link stuff out there, it just wont hold up.
 
Hard to say. I was stating the wishbone is stronger than a trac bar not that a parellel is stronger than a tri. My bars are 1 3/8 bottom and 1 1/4 tops with chromoly joints. Seems much smaller than the picture of the triangular. Not foreseeing them breaking. We'll see. Apples to oranges since your looking for a multipurpose vehicle.
 
Well might be looking into swapping in a 11.5 instead of a d80. From what I gathered from 15 min of frantic searching and calling people the 11.5 and d80 are both pretty stout, but the 11.5 is much easier to change gears in. Plus it has disk brakes while the d80's had drums on some years.
 
I get that...makes sense. I think the offroad shock guys should focus on the strip market too. A 3 inch tripple bypass with external clickers could be had for the same price and would be one hell of a competitor against a twin tube.
 
not arguing.... but what advantage would a triple bypass have on a shock with about 5-6" of stroke????



Also, fwiw- I have my uppers triangulated @ 40deg total and the lowers are parallel, and have had no issues with axle placement when driving over 7k miles on the street (poly bushings on all ends)
 
I like the idea of the aam axles and the triangulated 4 link. They aren't bad to setup. Me and my dad rebuilt the 4 link on our rock crawler and it wasn't too difficult.

Keep us updated on your build.



Sent from my iPhone during class
 
None....no advantage at all...that was the point of my rib/jab . The price vs what you get is frightning. I have seen those leak before after a couple passes...hope they are rebuildable.
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
I like the idea of the aam axles and the triangulated 4 link. They aren't bad to setup. Me and my dad rebuilt the 4 link on our rock crawler and it wasn't too difficult.

Keep us updated on your build.



Sent from my iPhone during class
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are you sure about that? there are plenty of factors that come into play when building a linked setup. rebuilding one is easy.

Garrett
 
You need to know what you are doing building a 4 link setup under a road going diesel truck. The forces are real and need to be managed or you'll have trouble.

Its hard to get enough side to side axle strength from a triangulated setup if you are towing. That is why the big trucks use pan hard bars.

I wouldn't touch this with a 10 foot pole behind a diesel truck used for towing. Not nearly strong enough.
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The rear axle on a diesel truck may have 6,000 pounds on it. With 36 inch tires and grippy pavement, the links on a 4 link system may need to resist 5,000 foot pounds of torque when accelerating or braking.

Here is my build thread. Pics start on about page 3 and you'll need to sign in to see them.
http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43770
 
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Still curious how proper instant center etc is achieved with a triangular. A 4 link setup is more than 4 bars. Very complex I learned.
 
me2 said:
With 36 inch tires and grippy pavement, the links on a 4 link system may need to resist 5,000 foot pounds of torque when accelerating or braking.
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Truck will at most have about 31" tires.

Any reason I cant fab up a panhard bar and just not run it most of the time? Only time the truck will ever tow is if I somehow actually get into the Diesel Power Challenge, which is highly unlikely.
 
shortbusdriver said:
Truck will at most have about 31" tires.

Any reason I cant fab up a panhard bar and just not run it most of the time? Only time the truck will ever tow is if I somehow actually get into the Diesel Power Challenge, which is highly unlikely.
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The problem with a panhard bar is that it makes the diff go side to side in an arc. Whereas a wishbone or triangulated setup wants to make it go straight up and down. The two will fight each other.

I don't know what to say other than that.

My new truck will be running single leaf leaf springs to control side to side movement. It will use a torque rod of some sort to control the torque.

Build thread here, presently waiting for some new tools.
DIY R4 Tech rear suspension. - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
Unless your talking very long travel, a panhard won't move it around too much. If you have it near horizontal at ride height you'd have quite a bit of travel before the arc gets steep enough to really cause much side to side motion.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk
 
AHall said:
Still curious how proper instant center etc is achieved with a triangular. A 4 link setup is more than 4 bars. Very complex I learned.
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So how many bars are in a 4-link? And describe which kind you are talking about because all of my experience(off-road) have been 4 links/bars in a 4-link setup.

Garrett

Probably getting paid at work to post this from my D1
 
SSpeeDEMONSS said:
So how many bars are in a 4-link? And describe which kind you are talking about because all of my experience(off-road) have been 4 links/bars in a 4-link setup.

Garrett

Probably getting paid at work to post this from my D1
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Should only be 4 bars. 2 uppers 2 lowers. If its done right the rear should stay right where its supposed to and not try to rear steer or squat.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk
 
^Garrett was being facetious.

I agree with chevota, but if there is concern then run a watts-link

and me2....I'm confident SBD won't have an issue with any respectable joint/link-length/link material as far as lateral stability is concerned


This thread's looking like it's about to head downhill quick...

I'm confident that with the proper initial design and incorporated adjustability, SBD will have no issue with a triangulated 4-link
 
BBD built a link set up for BBD1 and he ran a panhard bar and he pulled with it --I dont' recall how many links it was though, but I want to say 4--so in essence it was a 5 link--there should be some pics somewhere on the internut of what he built yrs ago....it was a stout set up that I do remember

and yes like the others stated a 4 link has 4 bars and a 3 link has 3 bars, but in almost every case there's a panhard bar with a 3 link set up--which makes it 4 bars--yes it's confusing, but when talking about link set ups you're talking about how many bars travel from the axle to a point forward or backward----
chris
 
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