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Old 03-30-2017, 01:15 PM   #1
WILD_PHIL
 
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Vacuum pump leaking

I have a 92 W250. Before I picked it up the vacuum pump was replaced. I lost my PS pump last week so I replaced it. Then I lost my vacuum pump. I got the vac pump warrantied and put it back together.

The old one had the gasket and RTV on it. It didn't leak. When I replace mine I did not put RTV on it. Just the gasket. Now it's leaking. Is it common practice to put RTV and the gasket on the vac pump where it attaches to the timing case?

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Old 03-30-2017, 06:55 PM   #2
R1raptor

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I put a thin coat of permatex right stuff on both sides. Cummins calls for a thin bead on most paper gaskets in the 12 valve manuals I've got.
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Old 03-30-2017, 06:56 PM   #3
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Thanks for the response. I'm going to do it tomorrow. I knew I should have, but had a friend convince me otherwise. Lesson learned.

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Old 03-30-2017, 06:57 PM   #4
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I've always used just the gasket without an issue. Is everything tight and the surfaces cleaned before install? Maybe a piece of dirt or something got in between causing the leak.

Edit: treed. I never used a paper one. The one I got had a metal ring in it.
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Old 03-31-2017, 08:55 AM   #5
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Gasket Maker | Share Corp

i use this on pretty much everything. I just slather it on the gasket with my hands until it's completely covered and then install. i'll also use it in place of a gasket on the timing cover
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Old 03-31-2017, 09:44 AM   #6
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I got a paper gasket with mine. Honestly I doubt it was cleaned well. I know there wasn't any gasket or RTV left but there may have been dirt or something.

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Old 03-31-2017, 01:46 PM   #7
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I've never once had my vacuum pump leak when using a gasket alone. Never used a paper gasket though. Always used the metal gaskets that have a "bead" in them.
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Old 03-31-2017, 07:06 PM   #8
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Well I pulled the vac pump again this evening. There was a Lil bit of old RTV left on the timing case surface closest to the block that I missed. Cleaned up the timing case surface, went ahead and put RTV on it, and reinstalled. I'll keep yall posted

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Old 04-02-2017, 07:30 PM   #9
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Well since we are talking gaskets let me ask this. Every oil pan gasket I've ever done I've pulled the engine and put it on a stand so it could sit upside down and cure.

Is this required on my 12v? I figure even if I do it while it's in the truck it will leak less than it does now. I'm trying to hold off on pulling the engine until my new engine is done.

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Old 04-02-2017, 08:35 PM   #10
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You can pull the pan in the truck just loosen motor mounts and jack it up. When I done it I had to drop the pickup tube in the pan and remove. Reinstalled the same way position pan with pickup laying in pan. Install pickup then slip gasket in.
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93 chevy 3500 : 215hp p-pump, 5sp, 19*, afc tuned ,plate delete , 3.54 d80 , slipping clutch.

83 chevy 3500 : 215 hp p-pump,5sp,19*,afc tuned,plate delete,rack plug, valair ceramic single,3.42 14b,
Vintage air, in need of twins.
 
Old 04-04-2017, 08:01 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WILD_PHIL View Post
Well since we are talking gaskets let me ask this. Every oil pan gasket I've ever done I've pulled the engine and put it on a stand so it could sit upside down and cure.

Is this required on my 12v? I figure even if I do it while it's in the truck it will leak less than it does now. I'm trying to hold off on pulling the engine until my new engine is done.

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No, I've just always barely snuggled up the pan, let it "cure", then torque it down. Position of motor shouldn't matter.
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12 3500 - studZ, deleteZ, tuneZ
 
Old 04-07-2017, 10:25 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.fondler View Post
No, I've just always barely snuggled up the pan, let it "cure", then torque it down. Position of motor shouldn't matter.
I did that with mine the last time and found that it had been weeping very slowly along almost the entire perimeter. Maybe not enough used? Didn't wanna be to liberal with it and have any ooze into the pan.

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