Head Stud Install

You get a pulley tap, they are 6" to 12" long, I have one that is a bottom tap that is 6" long and also have a pulley tap that is 6" long and one that is 12" long. 6" is barely long enough, you really need 9" to really do it right...

CorneliusRox said:

If you've got the time and money, x2.

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If you don't have the money, perhaps it's best to leave the Diesels alone. Just sayin'.

Snedge said:

If you don't have the money, perhaps it's best to leave the Diesels alone. Just sayin'.

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I'm not arguing with you on that, however I'm sure most people take the cheap/easy way out.

I guess I don't see studding a truck one at a time doing it half arse.
I guess it may be a slight gamble but if the truck shows no signs of having a bad headgasket, I'd rather not tamper with the seal and clamp that "original" gasket tighter, and run it.

On my 6.7, unless it blows one before I get to it, it's getting 625's one at a time.

BRE said:

I guess I don't see studding a truck one at a time doing it half arse.
I guess it may be a slight gamble but if the truck shows no signs of having a bad headgasket, I'd rather not tamper with the seal and clamp that "original" gasket tighter, and run it.

On my 6.7, unless it blows one before I get to it, it's getting 625's one at a time.

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I think he's referring to making sure both the head and block are flat, check out the valves/seat, o-ring/fire-ring, etc... All that as 'doing it the right way', and I don't disagree that that is the best way.

I also understand why someone with a perfectly fine running truck would not want to disturb the head gasket. That's also why I said I would recommend taking all studs to stock torque, and then increasing them in increments to whatever you want to go to, then cycle and retorque.

:Cheer:

BRE said:

I guess I don't see studding a truck one at a time doing it half arse.
I guess it may be a slight gamble but if the truck shows no signs of having a bad headgasket, I'd rather not tamper with the seal and clamp that "original" gasket tighter, and run it.

On my 6.7, unless it blows one before I get to it, it's getting 625's one at a time.

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When I did mine thats what I read. There is no seal like the original mls gasket that's been sealed for 140k mi. Plus it saved me money, because if I pulled the head the plenum would of got milled off lol.

It's a pipe dream, but in a perfect would I would try to get the new stud as close to the original clamp load to try and minimize displacement, and then torque up to the final torque for all of the studs in one sequence to keep gasket from moving around during the install.

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