reg cab chasis setup

[94 12valve]

ok I could only hang 1600 last year in our 8k class, but our rules stated full interior and bed. Also moved my water tank from the bed to the weight bar this year so that should give me some extra help this year too.

[Smokin Dodge]

I was just thinking and looking for your guys opinion. Would it be better to go to 1/2 ton springs or better to heat a coil or 2 on the 3/4 ton springs to lower them? Have you ever had any front axle hopping problems with the 1/2 ton springs?

[red dodge2]

Anyone one have some pics of any bracing to the rear end from the back of the truck? Would doing something like help maybe?

[Mountainman234]

You need some spring rate above your bump stop or most likely you will never be able to make your hitch long enough to lift the nose enough to not hop. I ran into this problem last year while setting up my coilovers. I didn't have enough preload to get it off the bump stop. I gave it more preload and the hop went away. The 3/4 ton spring setup would be best if you could achieve the ideal .75 - 1.5" of lift off the stop and be topped out at your spring height. With the 1/2 ton spring you may find you will have to run your hitch out farther to get the lift u need. 2¢

[94 12valve]

If your front springs are topped out what is loading the front end other than the weight of the axle?

[Mountainman234]

By the the time that happens the rear is already doing the bulk of the work.

[cumins01]

Originally Posted by red dodge2

Anyone one have some pics of any bracing to the rear end from the back of the truck? Would doing something like help maybe?

Try to call Jason at performance truck and tractor. He helped me out last year with my regular cab

[red dodge2]

I contacted him, he was gonna get me some pictures but never heard anything back from him. Or you could just share some info..... Haha

[cumins01]

What kind of info would you like?..... My hitch sits just below the frame rails and my rear springs are pulled down. I'm not sure of the user name, but I think it's takedown95 (?) that had a pic of a adjustable 3rd link that ran from the very rear of the frame to the axle to keep the frame from flexing behind the rear stops. On mine, I have a bar (2x2) from the rear corner of the frame going to the crossmember to keep it from flexing down. btw what are the rubber o-rings on a Haisley shock used for?

[red dodge2]

Not exactly sure, maybe to tell how much it actually lifts? If if give you my number could you txt me some pictures?

[cumins01]

sure

[Smokin Dodge]

Thanks for all the insight guys. Will have to check some of this stuff out and see what works for me.

[red dodge2]

Thinking about switching to a draw bar style hitch, any pointers on how to go about making one?

[Mountainman234]

In my opinion a conventional draw bar is only good for 4x2 rigs to help with nose lift and maintain wheel lift. As the chain angle will always match the drawbar angle. Hence the need for drawbar angle rules. Building a hybrid of the two is the only good reason to switch in my opinion. Something that has easy adjustability so you can quickly make a change and reduce the weight out back.

[red dodge2]

would anyone have any pointers or tips on a solid rear suspension setup?

[red dodge2]

Would tying my track bars into the bottom of my frame is a bad idea?

[Mountainman234]

Elaborate?

[red dodge2]

Like this. Just wondering if it would take to much flex out of the frame where the truck wont hook at good.

[kleann]

Considering that picture is from the top 2.6 truck out there right now, I'd say it works.