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LBZ GM Duramax Discussion of the Newest Generation Duramax and GM Trucks

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Old 12-15-2015, 10:40 AM   #1
90dodge
 
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Should I be afraid of this truck?

Just sold my 2wd last night, so now I'm pondering whether or not I will buy a
4wd to work in. I found this on craigslist last night.

http://stillwater.craigslist.org/cto/5341578980.html
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Can I get my screen name changed to NickatFirepunk?

I don't work there or anything, but it won't cause any confusion.
 
Old 12-15-2015, 11:02 AM   #2
davem3261
 
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That seems really cheap. If it was the same year dodge they would want 12-15k for it. If it runs and drives good I would buy it.
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:38 AM   #3
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I don't think I'd be afraid, but definitely be prepared. As in, don't spend your last dollar on it because I'm sure it'll need something.

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Old 12-15-2015, 11:55 AM   #4
90dodge
 
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I can't decide on it or not. He said it runs and drives good. Bought it at an auction in Texas. I think he is just trying to flip it. No oil leaks, smoke, or blow by.

Can a autocal test injector rates on it?
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Can I get my screen name changed to NickatFirepunk?

I don't work there or anything, but it won't cause any confusion.
 
Old 12-15-2015, 08:50 PM   #5
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Front suspension. If it hasn't been taken care of expect to drop lots of money into it. Just the nature of the cheBy IFS. It wears out.

Not many problems with those engines I've seen. They eat EGR's, coolers plug. An occasional head gasket, but that year got the "second design" head bolts.

CP3's are rare but do happen, injectors start getting higher return rates. HOWEVER most of the time guys only find out about this once you tow heavy a long distance. When you're really working the engine. Normal day to day driving they never notice it. I usually have a large influx of high pressure side failures here when guys start towing their big trailers up north.

Water pumps, those are common on all year DurkaMAX's. They happen, easy and quick to fix, price isn't horrible.

Trim, HVAC actuators and bent doors. Window regulators. Cluster failures. Easy fix, but not cheap.

Engine mounts and trans mount. Not expensive but a decent task to replace unless you have a hoist.

Look at the electric pass threw on the Allison (passenger side) if the wires coming out are wet, you'll need to fix that and the internal harness, VERY common.

Hydrobooster and lines, they leak. Easy repair, but not cheap.

How willing is the owner to let you fully inspect it? Or better yet call a local shop for a full inspection. You pay the fee, or split with the owner. I'm really not sure of your mechanical ability (I mean absolutely NO offence with that), but I'd hate to see you drop the coin on a roach for overlooking some expensive parts.

I'm not sure about your auto cal question. BUT! If you can access a good scanner, get the engine at operating temp, control full line pressure at idle, look at injector return rates and actual vs. Desired rail pressure.

I only see the broken one's. Let's face it, a customer in my line of business never stops by to say " my truck is running great and every thing is A Okay."

With everything up ^there^ I wouldn't hesitate to give the truck a throw checkout and plop some money on the table. 250k I've seen much more than that, biggest I've ever seen was 440k and remember I work in a dealership, most people with those miles shy away from me.
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:54 PM   #6
90dodge
 
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I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet. I've got good mechanical ability, I just want a break from mechanicing for a short bit. It's either buy something like this, a 1500hd with a 6.0 ls, or go through the engine and trans on my 12v and dd it for another few months.

I figured this truck would make a good donor for my 1/2 ton when it came time to upgrade.

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Can I get my screen name changed to NickatFirepunk?

I don't work there or anything, but it won't cause any confusion.
 
Old 12-15-2015, 09:33 PM   #7
vinniehobart

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you need to looks for a ZF6 truck....you dont need another automatic truck
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Old 12-15-2015, 09:48 PM   #8
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I don't think I would be afraid of it. You were given great advice on things to look for above. I have lots of customers that buy these budget work trucks. Ussually around here the duramax trucks are only ran by supervisors and such on the oil jobs. I guess I shouldn't assume it's a company truck though but it looks like it. Anyhow all my customers have had good luck. One has that exact truck with very similar mileage. He uses the truck a lot and sled pulls with it on a pretty healthy tune. It lost a torque converter at 240k.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:51 AM   #9
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I almost talked myself out of it and then I re read these posts. Lol

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Can I get my screen name changed to NickatFirepunk?

I don't work there or anything, but it won't cause any confusion.
 
Old 12-16-2015, 10:58 AM   #10
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I struggle with the fact it has 243K miles on it. At that point stuff just wears out and seems you will be nickels and dimes.
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:09 AM   #11
90dodge
 
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I struggle with the fact it has 243K miles on it. At that point stuff just wears out and seems you will be nickels and dimes.
273k actually. Lol

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Can I get my screen name changed to NickatFirepunk?

I don't work there or anything, but it won't cause any confusion.
 
Old 12-16-2015, 11:16 AM   #12
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5.3 LS chevy would be tough to beat for a DD on a budget. The two 6.0 gassers I have been around gulped fuel like nothing I've ever driven.

I think an LS powered truck is in my future personally.
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:17 AM   #13
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My fathers truck is one year older with 320,xxx miles. original egr still intact. hes put a water pump on it and thats it. If the truck was well maintained it still has alot of miles left in it
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
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5.3 LS chevy would be tough to beat for a DD on a budget. The two 6.0 gassers I have been around gulped fuel like nothing I've ever driven.

I think an LS powered truck is in my future personally.
I agree. However I will need something with at least a little ass behind it to pull a heavy load here and there.

A good tune can really help the 6.0's out on mileage. My moms escalade would get close to 20 with a not so suttle driving style.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by displacedtexan View Post
Can I get my screen name changed to NickatFirepunk?

I don't work there or anything, but it won't cause any confusion.
 
Old 12-16-2015, 11:19 AM   #15
90dodge
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyMaxx03 View Post
My fathers truck is one year older with 320,xxx miles. original egr still intact. hes put a water pump on it and thats it. If the truck was well maintained it still has alot of miles left in it
That's one thing I'm afraid of is that it may have been a company truck with a ****ty employee or two behind the wheel. Especially coming from oil country.
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Can I get my screen name changed to NickatFirepunk?

I don't work there or anything, but it won't cause any confusion.
 
Old 12-16-2015, 12:19 PM   #16
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I can't imagine how many rattles that truck has trapped over the course of 275k miles!
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:08 PM   #17
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I shall have to reconsider our friendship if you show up at my door driving a Cheby.

That is all.
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:21 PM   #18
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I buy trucks like this one every year from Herzog Contracting annual sale, most of the LBZs that I buy have been great trucks. Most are 4dr long beds and a few ex cabs. All are over 200k and a few are 300+, I bought one 2 years ago that had 260 on it and haven't done a thing to it, (other than replaced the dripping trans lines) has 330ish on it now. I wouldn't hesitate to scoop that truck up in a hurry. Just my .02
 
Old 02-11-2016, 07:26 PM   #19
90dodge
 
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Update: So the truck is still for sale so I went and looked at it.

Things for sure wrong with it:

-Steering gearbox is leaking, needs replaced
-Coolant leak coming from the back of the engine, no residue in tank or pressurized coolant tube when cold.
-Bed is pretty beat up, don't much care since I'm wanting a flat bed.
-Glass cover on gauge cluster is gone.

Truck started up and ran fine, absolutely no blow by.
Almost new tires.
Ball joints were good. One tie rod joint was a tad loose.
Doesn't look like the transmission or transfercase leaked any.

So. What is it worth? Where do you think the coolant leak is coming from? The little plate, egr cooler, coolant lines in valley, etc.?
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Can I get my screen name changed to NickatFirepunk?

I don't work there or anything, but it won't cause any confusion.
 
Old 02-11-2016, 07:57 PM   #20
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Heater core hoses like to leak.
Turbo coolant hoses leak, fill valley and the drain for the valley is on the passenger side.
Not very common, but the flywheel housing.

Define leak. You see dexcool trails or an active leak?
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I don't think they let hair sniffer twit much. Or the little gay guy. Only the Indian does.
 
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