Got it out of storage

I have been working on this truck for a while now. Worked on the frame last fall. Been working on the motor for a year now. It would have been done along time ago but I ran out of money. Yesterday I pulled it out of my other shop and decided to start on it again.

The build was going to be a 4WD 3.0 Open Driveline puller. I bought a set of f-106 front and rear axles to put in the truck. The truck started as a 2004 F-250 regular cab 2 wheel drive. I added 21" to the frame to get it to 158". One of our fellow pullers with our club who pulls 2wd gas has convinced me to built it as a 2wd. So I have decided to change directions.

So here is what i am going to try to get done for this season. Our first pull up here doesn't start until the second half of June. I hope I can get it done.

The truck will be a 6.0 P-pumped Powerstroke 3.0 turbo with a ZF-6 manual transmission, f-106 rear end. I have the motor running with the pump. Not really sure if it will make much power or if it will exploded. Since money has been short I am not going anything fancy. It will be a function before beauty. I just hope to get it down the track a couple times this year and that will be a win for me.

Hopefully the clutch and tranny will be here next week so I can put it on the engine and get it all in the truck.

im definitely interested in this for the motor alone.

Garrett

Nice! Thats a cool setup!

Holy fuel lines!! Sounds like a cool build!

Later

Wow..... wow...... wow

Thats pretty cool. Im gonna have to get started on another engine pretty soon....

Lynn

WOW cool clad to see another 2wd comming out going to be a interesting prodject.
Good luck

Dale

Cant wait to see this in person and pull

This looks like it is going to be an awesome truck...good luck on the build

holy batman looks cool but keep up the good work

wow that motor is UGLY LOL but bad ass at the same time. im really curious to see where this oes

is this a first for a ppumped 6.0? what kind of power are you hopeing for? very cool project

Didn't really get much done this last week. I wanted to get the cab tilting with the electric pump and I wanted to get the hydraulic steering working. I got the hoses and valves on so the cab tilts just as it should. So on to the steering. Last fall I got a steering system off a really old combine parked behind a guys barn. So like the braniac that I am, I never wrote down a a diagram of what each port connects to. It is not your normal orbital valve. The valve only has two hoses on it and then it runs to another control valve with 6 ports on it. So I mount everything and I don't remember where each hose goes. Now the great part is all the ports are different sizes. I guess how the hoses go and have them made to fit the way I think is right. Well nothing would work. Now I can swap any hoses around because they are all different. What a mess. Well, after a tear apart the 6 port valve and rebuild it, Friday I finally got the hoses figured out and steering working. Now just to weld it all to the truck.

Other than that the machine shop was supposed to have my flanges made early last week for making the intake and exhaust. Haven't seen them yet.

so just the cab is going to tilt or is the box going to also?

It looks like only the cab is going to tilt.nomatter what it is going to be a neat build.

Dale

here is the video of when I first got the cab to tilt.

The date I did this video was June 12th, 2009. The first thing I did on this build was to get the cab to tilt. Due to the cam gear on the 6.0 being on the rear of the engine I had to make sure that I could get easy access to the back of the motor. Do to most 3.0 rules last year I had to be able to do this while maintaining the full factory fire wall and cab floor. So once I figured out that I could get the cab to do what I wanted I could actually move forward will getting the p-pump on the engine. I was just running the lifts off the extra hydraulics on my bobcat.

The tilt also serves as a body lift because I needed about 3+ inches to clear the p-pump.

At first the box will have removable sides. They have to get out of the way before the cab can lift as it moves back as it goes up. Eventually I will put a tilt bed on it.

This was also before I extended the frame and put the big axle in the rear.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wC5A4ofvAnY

deffently different get the bed sincroed with the cab that will look cool the crowd will love it.

Dale

I'm so glad you got this project rolling again, I want to see that P-pumped 6.0 cranking!

there's a local guy that tilts the bed & cab just like yours will. Definitely different & it works! I want to say his nose either comes off or maybe tilts forward? Can't remember that for sure as I don't see it a lot cause it's a 4wd n/a gasser & none of the sanctions I follow runs them.

I'll say it again, cool build!


For your area, are they going to let you run a 30" hitch beings it's a 2wd? Are you concerned with the f106 handling business in a 2wd? Seems I heard the 2wd can tax them quite a bit?? I guess if it becomes a problem, SCS has axles & spools.


Later

Very interesting build. Not knocking on the body lift setup, but why not just have the cab and bed lift together and still keep the floorpan and firewall. If memory serves me right, the white 3.0 d-max (Kusikil i think) with the lift up body still has the floorpans and firewall in tact.

I thought about having it all lift like Kuselik's but I was concerned about the extra amount of framing that it would take to support the cab weight. I think kuselik's run a double frame.

First thought was based on the fact that when I pulled my last truck I could hang about 4 hundred pounds and a similar body Chevy could hang about 1000, I didn't think I could double frame the truck like they did. The Fords are just to heavy to start with, was my thinking.

Second reason for doing it this way, I was only adding extra weight to the front half of the truck. If I did a full body tilt I would have been adding weight to the back half of the truck. Remember I was going to build this as a 4wd and with those you want to move as much weight forward as possible. If I didn't have to keep the floor pan and firewall intact then that would save a lot of lifted wight and then the framing could be smaller and the weight of it would not be so much of an issue then I would have tilted the cab top and box together.

Third reason was that with the floor pan and firewall staying intact then everything in the cab has to run back to the pivot point and then back up to the motor. Like the Hydraulic lines for the steering, the brake lines, the throttle cables, all wiring and so forth. I figured once you factor in the extra cost of each one being about 20 feet longer I would save alot of money.

So the answer is to save weight and money.