Bubbles in Coolant

jfaulkner said:
Ok the reason I asked is when we ring the heads you MUST use a Cat gasket. The location was measured for the exact location of the fire ring in the cat gasket and will not hit the other brands. Had one guy blow 3 before he admitted he was using IPD gasket. The size of the target is much smaller on those. Also some guys are cutting them with hand tools so the accuracy and wire protrusion is questionable. Liner height is a big deal too, since the wire is there I wouldn’t ever set one about .005.

Did anyone actually inspect the used gaskets to see if there were any cracks in the fire rings or they just pulling the head and throwing them away?

Get a pressure tester and pump the cooling system to 12psi and let it sit. Do it cold and hot (unless the problem shows itself immediately). Pulling the head again is last resort.
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10four, I've heard that before...makes sense. A CAT gasket was used both times and they used a place they trust (K&D) to do the ring job. I never saw the protrusion sheet but they told me they remeasured the second time and the numbers were 4-4.5 across all 6 holes. They also said they didn't see anything on the gasket or anywhere else that indicated a leak but the machine shop that did the original pressure check and decking rechecked it and saw some slight indication of a leak but the head checked out ok so they reinstalled it.

I can't withstand the downtime to pull the head again at this point. Antrim had my truck for 4 weeks the first time and 3 the second time. Another round like that and I'll be out of business. I'll try the rental deal BigPapa mentioned over the weekend and report back ASAP, thanks.
 
As far as the in / outlet. You said once you dumped the air tanks the bubbles disappeared, so I was just trying to visualize the coolant routing and ensure that the compressor was completely removed from the scenario

Edit: I read your post again, and it just states "disconnected", so I was assuming that meant coolant lines. Or did you remove the entire compressor from the engine?
 
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JWhite said:
As far as the in / outlet. You said once you dumped the air tanks the bubbles disappeared, so I was just trying to visualize the coolant routing and ensure that the compressor was completely removed from the scenario

Edit: I read your post again, and it just states "disconnected", so I was assuming that meant coolant lines. Or did you remove the entire compressor from the engine?
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There is only one air discharge line that runs from compressor to air dryer. Once it’s disconnected the compressor is just pumping into the atmosphere and making zero pressure.
 
Well, it looks like it's the headgasket...again. I was unable to get the pressure test kit from Autozone so I decided to use the fluid that changes color as an alternative and sure enough that liquid turned green. I tested when the engine was cold and as it began to warm up the bubbles got worse and worse. They also started before the thermostat opened. Then, I drained everything from the tanks, fan hub and disconnected the compressor. The bubbles slowed down significantly but they still changed the fluid green again. I'm pretty bummed out here. I feel like I threw 25k down the drain or I'm getting hosed by the shop.
 

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