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Old 03-15-2024, 09:20 PM   #161
CTD2500
 
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It sounds like we’ll finally be continuing on with machining the engine adapter pretty soon. Plans for that have been going on the past couple of weeks; hopefully it’ll happen soon.

Other than that, I scored a new air intake cap for $60. It just needs a coat of the same paint I’ve been using. I don’t intend to use the original air cleaner on this unit, but I wanted to keep it there for the original appearance—especially since there’s a hole in the hood for it. I can’t remember if I’ve mentioned it before, but I was planning on using it as a catch can. I think the sump, plus the metal screen will catch most of the oil vapor so hopefully the intake tract doesn’t get coated in oil.

Here is the original cap. The rust pitting is bad, plus it has dents in it. I really wasn’t looking forward to smoothing that out.
Click the image to open in full size.

And here’s the new one.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

To be clear, that screen in the bottom of the cap isn’t the one I was talking about in the above paragraph. Down in the canister there is a large mesh screen wound throughout the chamber where the intake air would be filtered, with the aid of an oil sump.


I guess I’ll update on the truck too. I got the 215 pump installed last week, but didn’t have too many chances to drive it until more recently. There’s been lots of rain with above freezing weather so I think the road salt is pretty much gone.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

My 160 pump was rebuilt and maxed by Seth Farrell back in 2015. It was internally pin-timed at 19 degrees, so I just matched that with this unit.

According to Seth on CumminsForum, pin-timing the 215 will set it at 13 degrees at the lowest part of the notch, which is roughly mid rack travel. So I pin-timed it, taped a degree wheel that I printed off the web onto the crank pulley, and made a pointer at 0 degrees out of some mechanic’s wire attached by a magnet. Then I backed the engine up by 6 degrees and locked the pump gear down. Pretty easy.
Click the image to open in full size.

Bled the air out and started it, and it actually ran nice. The idle is pleasantly smooth, but since I changed over my AFC from the 160, it needed some adjustment. I learned very quickly when I got to drive it that a 215 pump fuels a lot harder than a 160, so it’ll need a stiffer spring in the AFC.

The idle was high, so I took that down to what I’m used to, then got the preboost dialed in (I pinch off the boost reference line to disable boost fueling, then add turns to the preboost screw until I can see smoke when I take off from a stop.)

I limited max fueling quite a bit, so at full throttle it only makes 65 psi of boost, so now I can raise the max rack travel by little bits until it starts to get smoky. Kinda sneak up on it, then cut it back just enough to clean it up. I prefer a clear WOT.

So far, it drives nice, other than having to tune the boost/fuel curve to cut the smoke down. That’s the hardest part, I find.
But yeah, it idles smooth, feels snappier off the line, and hits higher RPMs with less throttle than before. Pretty cool!
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95 Ram 2500 4X4 RCLB, 4K GSK, 19°, DDP4 injectors, 024 DV, two 257/362 SXE triples, 178-208 cam, ported head, 2 intercoolers, SS manifold, 5" exhaust, Goerend T/C, ATS V/B, built auto w/ billet input, 4th Gen brakes
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Old 03-16-2024, 10:26 AM   #162
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Just to clarify one thing:

When I mentioned limiting full travel, the way I do that is by using a bolt that I added to the front of the AFC housing. On the front of the housing is that short bolt that holds the cam that adjusts the height of the AFC foot. I removed that bolt, drilled and tapped the hole the rest of the way through (M6x1.0) and threaded a longer bolt into the housing. That bolt acts as a stop for the AFC foot, which can be adjusted to allow more or less travel. A jam nut is used to hold the cam in place, and to hold the bolt from vibration/turning.

Click the image to open in full size.

This makes it easy to change full fuel with a 10mm wrench for a quick adjustment, without the need to remove the AFC housing. And I can use it in conjunction with a fuel plate with a steep cutback to limit low RPM fuel and smoke while being able to add/subtract top end power independently.
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95 Ram 2500 4X4 RCLB, 4K GSK, 19°, DDP4 injectors, 024 DV, two 257/362 SXE triples, 178-208 cam, ported head, 2 intercoolers, SS manifold, 5" exhaust, Goerend T/C, ATS V/B, built auto w/ billet input, 4th Gen brakes
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Old 03-17-2024, 10:30 AM   #163
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Man that is slick on the afc stop. You really think outside the box.

Good to hear the adapter will be coming along for the tractor.
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Old 03-17-2024, 12:52 PM   #164
CTD2500
 
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I didn’t come up with the idea of the AFC stop bolt, and I can’t recall who I got the idea from (it was years ago). I don’t think anyone else has used it in conjunction with a fuel plate though—as far as I know, anyway.

I drove it a few times yesterday; the top end seemed limited, even after backing the stop bolt out to allow more fuel. So this morning I took the AFC off to see what’s going on.

While it was off, I got a picture of how the bolt looks inside the housing. At this setting, the AFC foot doesn’t quite touch the stop bolt, and power still felt limited even though the AFC is going full forward.
Click the image to open in full size.

Once I looked at the fuel plate, I think I found the issue. I believe the arrow is pointing to the witness mark from the governor arm, which looks like it’s limiting rack travel quite a bit. I didn’t expect there’d be a mark there already, but I’m pretty sure that’s what it is.
Click the image to open in full size.

I guess I”ll need to grind some more off of this to allow more rack travel, but for now I just put it together with no fuel plate so I can set max fuel without interference. After that, I’ll grind the plate some more and put it back in.

The other thing I did was swap the AFC spring out for one of the heavy springs from the common kits that I happen to have on hand (this one is a BD kit, but they’re all basically the same as the old TST kits.) That really cut down the smoke during boost ramp-up, but a few turns on the star wheel are still needed, I think.


Oh, and one other interesting change is that primary boost is up a few PSI. It hit 22psi with total boost at 70, and before it only hit 18-19. Last summer it wouldn’t hit 22 unless total was closer to 80. My guess is that the upgraded Treadstone intercooler is letting more air through (less pressure drop), and maybe the freer-flowing exhaust is helping a bit too. I doubt it has anything to do with the new pump—but it’s an improvement, whatever the reason.
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95 Ram 2500 4X4 RCLB, 4K GSK, 19°, DDP4 injectors, 024 DV, two 257/362 SXE triples, 178-208 cam, ported head, 2 intercoolers, SS manifold, 5" exhaust, Goerend T/C, ATS V/B, built auto w/ billet input, 4th Gen brakes
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Old 03-17-2024, 02:15 PM   #165
CTD2500
 
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Well, I tried to go for a test run. I hit 80 PSI one time, then I could hear a hissing sound whenever I made boost, with excessive smoke from the tailpipe. I figured a boost leak had been caused, but it was still making boost—which I thought was weird—and it still had OK power.

When I got home and checked under the hood, I found this:
Click the image to open in full size.

So the steel line from the turbine housing to the VGT actuator broke off. Exhaust pressure escaping was the hissing noise I heard, and smoke output was bad because the vanes were staying in the fully closed position, choking exhaust flow off.

This failure is my fault, to be clear. Diesel Power Source supplies a stainless steel line, but because of how I clocked the turbo, their line didn’t reach so I just made a longer one out of normal 1/4” brake line, which was supposed to be temporary. I didn’t get around to getting some stainless line to remake it properly, but I guess now the old Dodge has forced my hand.
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95 Ram 2500 4X4 RCLB, 4K GSK, 19°, DDP4 injectors, 024 DV, two 257/362 SXE triples, 178-208 cam, ported head, 2 intercoolers, SS manifold, 5" exhaust, Goerend T/C, ATS V/B, built auto w/ billet input, 4th Gen brakes
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