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Old 11-23-2015, 05:14 AM   #21
zstroken
 
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So the metal will span the distance between posts and not bow? What about taking craft face insulation, put slits in the craft face, then nail it to the wall? Then hang plastic on the inside for you vapor barrier?
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Old 11-23-2015, 05:57 AM   #22
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Very nice shop. I wish I had done the floor heating.

Quote:
Yeah, I would second metal as well. Give it a wash down every year, and you'll keep it clean.
We are currently installing metal on the inside walls of a 70x100 steel building per the customer. The walls and ceiling were spray foamed. One thing I've noticed as we work towards getting the entire interior sheeted is the acoustics in the building. We are doing ear plugs now as the little dewalt screw guns sound like 50 cals.

I need to do something with the interior of my building as far as sheeting, but, I don't want the noise associated with the metal sheeting. I'm looking at some closed cell, double silver backed insulation that has an R-19 value. For me, this may be able to serve as the insulation and sheeting all in one if installed correctly. Of course, near the welding area, metal sheeting would have to be installed.
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:58 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodacious View Post
Very nice shop. I wish I had done the floor heating.



We are currently installing metal on the inside walls of a 70x100 steel building per the customer. The walls and ceiling were spray foamed. One thing I've noticed as we work towards getting the entire interior sheeted is the acoustics in the building. We are doing ear plugs now as the little dewalt screw guns sound like 50 cals.

I need to do something with the interior of my building as far as sheeting, but, I don't want the noise associated with the metal sheeting. I'm looking at some closed cell, double silver backed insulation that has an R-19 value. For me, this may be able to serve as the insulation and sheeting all in one if installed correctly. Of course, near the welding area, metal sheeting would have to be installed.
The race shop I worked at had the metal installed on the inside of the walls and after the insulation was put in the echo went away.
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:00 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zstroken View Post
So the metal will span the distance between posts and not bow? What about taking craft face insulation, put slits in the craft face, then nail it to the wall? Then hang plastic on the inside for you vapor barrier?
No, if I do metal I will run 2x4 long ways and run the tin vertical. They did the exterior walls like that already
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:59 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodacious View Post
Very nice shop. I wish I had done the floor heating.







We are currently installing metal on the inside walls of a 70x100 steel building per the customer. The walls and ceiling were spray foamed. One thing I've noticed as we work towards getting the entire interior sheeted is the acoustics in the building. We are doing ear plugs now as the little dewalt screw guns sound like 50 cals.



I need to do something with the interior of my building as far as sheeting, but, I don't want the noise associated with the metal sheeting. I'm looking at some closed cell, double silver backed insulation that has an R-19 value. For me, this may be able to serve as the insulation and sheeting all in one if installed correctly. Of course, near the welding area, metal sheeting would have to be installed.

Perforated metal takes care of the noise. I don't recommend running the sheets horizontal either, dirt lays on the ribs.
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
 
Old 11-23-2015, 08:01 AM   #26
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What fuel boiler you going with?

I have a couple used 200K BTU waste oil boilers I don't need. I could fix you up with one.

My new shop has a 350K BTU waste oil, and a 375K Natural gas as a backup. Didn't want only one furnace in the new shop, since it's providing heat for the whole complex now. Waste oil is nice, but there is a bit of labor involved in storing and moving the oil around.

Natural gas is an awesome option if you have it available. Cheap and EFFICIENT. My boiler is 94% efficient, and I'm heating 26,000 square feet to 65* for about $1300/month. Not bad knowing what some friends pay to heat their shops.

Chris
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:59 AM   #27
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What fuel boiler you going with?

I have a couple used 200K BTU waste oil boilers I don't need. I could fix you up with one.

My new shop has a 350K BTU waste oil, and a 375K Natural gas as a backup. Didn't want only one furnace in the new shop, since it's providing heat for the whole complex now. Waste oil is nice, but there is a bit of labor involved in storing and moving the oil around.

Natural gas is an awesome option if you have it available. Cheap and EFFICIENT. My boiler is 94% efficient, and I'm heating 26,000 square feet to 65* for about $1300/month. Not bad knowing what some friends pay to heat their shops.

Chris
I'm going with aa natural gas boiler. I don't produce enough waiste oil to get one and I'm not cutting wood. So gas is what I'm going with
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:56 AM   #28
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You definitely won't be disappointed.

Laars Neotherm

That's what I have. 95% efficient, and haven't had to look at it since we put it in...granted, this is the 3rd year, but better than what we've had in the past.

Chris
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:09 AM   #29
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Great looking building. It looks in the picture that the guards are not evenly spaced. May just be the angle of the picture. Other than that great shop, some day I will be able to get one.
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:16 AM   #30
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Been watching on farcebook. Nice shop.
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:39 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerickson View Post
Great looking building. It looks in the picture that the guards are not evenly spaced. May just be the angle of the picture. Other than that great shop, some day I will be able to get one.
I think it was just the angle. The holes were evenly spaced when I drilled them.



So did some checking on the metal for the interior walls and its $39.36 per sheet which is 48 sq feet and plywood is almost the same money for 1/2 thick and only 32 sq feet. So the metal is cheaper
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:45 AM   #32
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Wow, that's a nice shop looks awesome
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:28 AM   #33
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I'm going with aa natural gas boiler. I don't produce enough waiste oil to get one and I'm not cutting wood. So gas is what I'm going with
Bravo! Stand by for the die hard wood cutters to tell you how the heat is "free".
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
 
Old 11-23-2015, 11:44 AM   #34
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The waste oil guys would try to tell you that too. I'm not one of them.

It might be cheap, but nothing is free. Time is money.
Chris
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:49 AM   #35
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Bravo! Stand by for the die hard wood cutters to tell you how the heat is "free".
Lol. I burn wood. It probably cost me just as much if I didn't. Only difference is I own stuff for my money and enjoy cutting. If I didn't enjoy it then hell no I wouldn't.

Nice building BTW. I am getting asphalt millings hauled right now for my 40x72 and constructions starts after thanksgiving. I'll probably start a thread. I am against floor heat in a shop, even though I run a boiler, but like it for a home. If it is occupied every day all day it is nice. I'm only in mine a few hrs a day so its not practical.
 
Old 11-23-2015, 12:12 PM   #36
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Lol. I burn wood. It probably cost me just as much if I didn't. Only difference is I own stuff for my money and enjoy cutting. If I didn't enjoy it then hell no I wouldn't.

Nice building BTW. I am getting asphalt millings hauled right now for my 40x72 and constructions starts after thanksgiving. I'll probably start a thread. I am against floor heat in a shop, even though I run a boiler, but like it for a home. If it is occupied every day all day it is nice. I'm only in mine a few hrs a day so its not practical.
I have found that from the heating and cooling of the building I use now for building engines in that the clean parts will start to rust from condensation. So I want it to stay a constant temp all winter if possible. I can always cool the shop part down and leave the lean too warmer. I have 2 separate zones to work with
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Old 11-23-2015, 12:16 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaulkner View Post
Bravo! Stand by for the die hard wood cutters to tell you how the heat is "free".
Quote:
Originally Posted by Signature600 View Post
The waste oil guys would try to tell you that too. I'm not one of them.

It might be cheap, but nothing is free. Time is money.
Chris
Your exactly right. Nothing is free. This way I can push a button and I have heat with out having to stand in the snow everyday packing it full of wood. Besides there isn't enough wood on the place to try and heat it all winter let alone the future winters
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Last edited by DISTURBED; 11-23-2015 at 12:18 PM.
 
Old 11-23-2015, 04:02 PM   #38
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The waste oil guys would try to tell you that too. I'm not one of them.

It might be cheap, but nothing is free. Time is money.
Chris

Waste oil makes sense if you have enough to run it. Friends have ran out and had to buy fuel oil to keep it going and efficiently goes in the toilet on fuel. But having to store it inside sucks, it's dirty no matter how careful you are and the burners can be high maintenance.

I wouldn't care if wood was cut/split for me and I had someone to load the stove I wouldn't touch it.

I want to build a shop at my house and considered floor heat but I want to air condition it too so it will probably be forced air.
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
 
Old 11-23-2015, 04:17 PM   #39
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They are high maintenance....PERIOD.

We are ALWAYS screwing with ours.


I really wanted to go Geothermal, but for $250K, I can buy a LOT of gas.
Chris
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:47 PM   #40
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They are high maintenance....PERIOD.

We are ALWAYS screwing with ours.


I really wanted to go Geothermal, but for $250K, I can buy a LOT of gas.
Chris

Buddy found the best thing to do is take the filter system that came with his clean burn and throw it in the trash. I have geothermal at home. Def the way to go if you can swallow the initial cost.
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
 
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