New to the forum, Wanting to get started in pulling

Im new as i said and im wanting to get into pulling, Ive been around truck pullers for quite awhile and have some friends that pull but im wanting to start out in hot farm (like tractors better). I am young 18, but i make good money as a welder and have money put back already. Ive read a little and heard alot about the 1066 case ih being a good starter but havent heard much on good john deeres to get started with. Anybody recommend a few good john deeres to start with? And also these are the rules for the pulling sanction i would be puling with.

A. This class is intended for farm stock tractors only!!
1. 1. No Super Farm tractors allowed.
2. 2. No Pro Stock tractors allowed.
3. 3. No Super Stock tractors allowed.

B. RPM limit is 3000.
Each tractor is required to have an Isspro magnetic pick up device
#019R8906. This is available at Schied Diesel, 1800-669-1593, for
approximately $51.00.


C. Tire Size
Tire size is limited to 24.5x32 or 20.8x42 or smaller.
NO CUT TIRES ALLOWED.


D. Air Supply Shutoff
Tractors must have an air supply shutoff in front of turbo workable from a kill cable at rear of tractor located 48” above drawbar, off 6”to either side.


E. Stabilizer Bars
Tractors must have stabilizer bars (wheelie). Bars must extend a minimum of 32” from center of rear wheel back. Bars must have a pad of 5” square minimum. Bars must have 20” minimum between the pads. Stabilizer bars must be able to support the weight of the tractor in the heaviest class pulled in. There must be a brace that extends vertically 12” from the rear most tip of the skid pad, and there must be a brace that extends inward to the frame, axle, or top of stabilizer bar arms.


F. Safety Tie Bars
Tractors must have safety tie bars mounted to the rear axe housing with at least 4 axle housing bolts and extending forward of flywheel area and fastened to side of block or main frame with at least 2 5/8 bolts. Tie bars must be of sufficient strength to support weight of tractor with the bolts used to split the tractor at the clutch bell housing removal.

G. Safety Blanket
Safety blanket must be on tractor bell housing.


H. Fly Wheel
Steel flywheel and clutch components are strongly recommended, but not required with 3000 RPM limitation and other safety equipment.


I. Roll Cage
Tractors are required to have roll-over protection capable to withstand the weight of the tractor in the heaviest class pulled in. Seat belts are required.


J. Drawbar
Tractors will have a drawbar maximum 20” vertical from ground. Drawbar must be minimum of 18” horizontal length from center of rear wheels back. Drawbars must have a hole for the hitch, oblong shape, 3¾” x 3” wide.
No clevis allowed!

Need a little more info what are the weight, engine rules, and turbo rules? If over 10,000 lbs and a 640 ci limit look into a 6030 and install a 619 big block engine.

Im 99% positive its 10,000#, and it says farm stock tractors only but they dont sound like stock engines so i assume nothing bigger than stock but i will find out for sure

Looked at a few 6030's but a little out of my price right now

You could look at a 5010/20 I am 99.9% sure they use the same engine. Honestly if cost is a factor Deere is not the way to be looking it cost more to build them its just that simple there are more of them still at work on a farm somewhere and it makes the cost higher. I am a Deere person at heart but I didnt have the money to go that route so I am building an IH as someone told me when it comes to tractor pulling (and winning) brand loyatly goes out the window.

ive heard that the 1066 case is a good starter and what about the 766 case?

The 766 and 1066 are Internationals not a case design and were produced before the merger. The 1066 is the tractor of choice for most pullers for the class you are wanting to build. The first thing to do is remove the dt-414 and replace it with a Dt-466 (find an old schoolbus) everything bolts back up the exact same way. The DT engines are the SBC of the tractor pulling world and you can buy anything you could dream for them. I know how things go on a limited budget and I can try to help your or redirect you if I don't.

ive looked and found a few 1066's for 8k and under which i can do but im onto one for 4500, what is it gonna take to make me competitive and how much $ will have to be spent to reach that point.

Im also willing to buy one already built if i can find one that meets/doesnt exceed the regulations for the class i want to pull. I think the biggest thing is the 3000 rpm limit. Can someone explain that to me please?

Also ive never seen anyone pulling a massey ferguson is there a reason behind this or what? ive grown up with massey fergusons

The 3000 rpm limit is very common for farm stock classes and that gives the edge to the big block JD's and the 466 IH's with both having a long stroke. The limit is kept down for 1) safety (most will not have steel flywheels) and 2)keeps the hot farm tractors out of the class

Masseys are not used very much because the only motor they have really worth anything for pulling are the V8's and these have a short stroke and need to turn alot of rpm to make the power and mainly torque needed to beat the inlines. Now this doesnt apply to the pro-stock or super-stock classes (see warpath and brutal force)

If a 466 is an option for this i found 2 today

oliverpuller said:

You could look at a 5010/20 I am 99.9% sure they use the same engine. Honestly if cost is a factor Deere is not the way to be looking it cost more to build them its just that simple there are more of them still at work on a farm somewhere and it makes the cost higher. I am a Deere person at heart but I didnt have the money to go that route so I am building an IH as someone told me when it comes to tractor pulling (and winning) brand loyatly goes out the window.

Click to expand...

5010/20 and 6030 use the same block just not injection pumps. 619 out of an articulated tractor will bolt up in a 5020 fine. If you are building a dedicated puller that you can strip it and get your movable weight up. There is a 5020 I believe on tractor house now that doesn't run and asking $4,950 I believe. If you wanted to go that route and got it a little cheaper and could find an engine that wouldn't be a bad deal in my opinion. But like already said IH are cheaper to build startin out. But remember there is nothing cheap in this sport only cheaper. Good luck on your build.

oliverpuller said:

Masseys are not used very much because the only motor they have really worth anything for pulling are the V8's and these have a short stroke and need to turn alot of rpm to make the power and mainly torque needed to beat the inlines. Now this doesnt apply to the pro-stock or super-stock classes (see warpath and brutal force)

Click to expand...

Yeah, the MF's used a 354 Perkins, or they jumped up to a 540 or 640 V8...

I just realized that your name is Oliver puller, you like deere, but are building an IH....Sorry, made me laugh!

Chris

Yes its a long story. My family has always farmed with Deeres (grandfather bought an A new). A couple years back I wanted to start antique pulling and I found a 77 Oliver for sale for 400 bucks so well thats what I went with (joined compD during that time). Now I have decided that I wanted to step up to a little hotter tractor and well being a college student I could not afford a 4020 just to tear apart to pull, but again ran into a cheap 560 rear end and dt466 so well thats how that worked out. I guess I just consider myself as a tractor person and I don't get caught up on the brand loyalty stuff.

Copy that....we have some of everything, but a lot of Orange!

Chris

I've got a U and UB moline that need to be restored too. Orange is one thing that I havent done much with but I would love to get my hands on a D21 or a 210 someday.

What about the 466 ih and an oliver 1800, if the oliver is an option im going to look at one tomorrow