4th gen over 1000 HP ,best year ?

M

Mazak

New member
I am considering building a 4th gen. over 1k HP.

Is there a better you for doing this ? And why ?
Will change tranny to a 48RE whatever year it is.
 
Doubtful you will go wrong with any 4th gen you purchase. If your goal is 1,000 hp, the engine will be on a stand getting fortified anyways. Just make sure the rest of the isn’t falling apart around it.

FWIW, I’ve read a few times that folks want pre 2013 blocks. Not sure why. Gone are the days of the #53 block and issues of sort.
 
2012 has a terribly designed traction control system that gets really annoying with that kind of power. 2011’s don’t have it so that would be my recommendation.
 
If you plan on swapping in a 48re immediately maybe try to find a g56 truck. Not as much of a hassle and you can get some return on investment by selling the g56
 
Poulina said:
If you plan on swapping in a 48re immediately maybe try to find a g56 truck. Not as much of a hassle and you can get some return on investment by selling the g56
Click to expand...

Why is it less of a hassle? I have a G56 truck and want to go to a 48RE at some point.
 
Red Sleeper said:
...FWIW, I’ve read a few times that folks want pre 2013 blocks. Not sure why...
Click to expand...
I have a good idea where this fallacy came from and I am going to kill this MYTH, right here, right now. :)

The 2008 6.7 has the EXACT same block casting number(s) as a 2017, so if there's something wrong with late blocks, it's likely a problem with the early ones, as well.

I've torn down multitudes of them, no one seems to have any specific issue that I can see as an inherent flaw in their casting or machining process.
No tendencies to crack here, or have casting flaws there, or missing casting material from foundry issues.

This fish story is akin to the 12/24 valve rod strength/vs C.O.M. BS that's still floating around out there.

Mark.
 
Well that 2011 did not work out.
Now i am looking at a 2014 regular cab due to having rear coil springs and prairie pearl coat paint.
I have never saw a single cab with that paint color.
 
I'd say 2010 or 2011. They don't have traction control, and they both have the five link front suspension instead of the new radius arms.

Other than that, you're not going to see much difference performance wise.

If you went with a 2014+ truck, you do get coil springs in the rear though. That's a better platform to start with if you want to get into playing with spring rates and coilovers.

I'd still recommend the 2010-2011 based on cost and performance though. You can get clean ones for around $25k.
 
Poulina said:
If you plan on swapping in a 48re immediately maybe try to find a g56 truck. Not as much of a hassle and you can get some return on investment by selling the g56
Click to expand...

How much can I get from a g56 as compared to selling the 68 ?
 
From prices I've seen floating on craigslist, facebook, and forums, you can get a lot more for a stock 68RFE than a stock G56.

I would have previously agreed it's easier to start with a G56, but there's pretty simple tuning now. You could even return the truck to stock tuning, have a dealer flash a cal for manual, and then go from there.


Another option would be an A1000. Not popular, but there's plenty of DMax guys that make them last around 1,000hp and still have a solenoid based 6spd auto.
 
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