mains and rod hardware opinions - Competition Diesel.Com

Drasko · 03-26-2017, 05:53 PM

I have the block back from the machine shop and am FINALLY about to build the engine for this never ending project.
My main question is do i do ARP main stud and rod bolts or go with new standard cummins bolts? whats the limitations for the stock bottom end? im thinking stock bolts will survive this on a fresh rebuild. my setup is listed below. Thoughts? advice? I was planning on the ARPs until i read about machining with them installed due them causing things to go out of round which i did not do.
The set up is a 99 f-250 2wd/reg cab/long bed with a 12valve/47re combo.
Use for the truck is a fun street truck that wont see much if any track time due to my work schedule and nearest track location. it will see some runs on the street and what not though.
Planned setup-
160 pump that im sure will be adjusted after i get everything running
5x.016s 155* spray angle
131 DVs or the ones i had cut for my old truck that were FC with a .5mm shoulder
high 20's timing
83x74 S475 with a .9 AR t4 housing
marine bowl pistons
DIY exhaust port work
blocks bored 20 over
cam might be a 178 or 188 hamilton or it might be stock until i decide where i want to go with it.

Drasko

Stox5225 · 03-26-2017, 07:55 PM

I played with the idea of main studs, BUT if you do the studs, you need to have a machine shop line hone where the crank sits. The studs clamp harder than the bolts which can cause the caps to twist a little. So the machine shop will have to install the studs and caps and hone them to prevent binding the crank. Now, there's no guarantee the crank will bind, but if it does ... well you get it.

I just retorqued my stock bolts to about 145ft-lbs. Buying new bolts is stupid expensive. I've been told and also read around that the stock bottom end can hold up to about 700hp.

As for the connecting rod bolts, definitely get new ARP ones. Not that expensive and certainly better than stock. You shouldn't reuse the ones that came out.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Inbred Inline · 03-26-2017, 08:15 PM

L19 rod bolts are easy to do, FWIW I put 12mm main studs in my 24v block and they didn't move the mains around at all......but 14mm in a 12v block I would NOT do. 14mm studs have a higher torque # and will distort stuff much worse.

03-26-2017, 05:53 PM	#1
Drasko Name: Drasko Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Edgerton, Kansas Member`s Gallery Posts: 1,276	mains and rod hardware opinions I have the block back from the machine shop and am FINALLY about to build the engine for this never ending project. My main question is do i do ARP main stud and rod bolts or go with new standard cummins bolts? whats the limitations for the stock bottom end? im thinking stock bolts will survive this on a fresh rebuild. my setup is listed below. Thoughts? advice? I was planning on the ARPs until i read about machining with them installed due them causing things to go out of round which i did not do. The set up is a 99 f-250 2wd/reg cab/long bed with a 12valve/47re combo. Use for the truck is a fun street truck that wont see much if any track time due to my work schedule and nearest track location. it will see some runs on the street and what not though. Planned setup- 160 pump that im sure will be adjusted after i get everything running 5x.016s 155* spray angle 131 DVs or the ones i had cut for my old truck that were FC with a .5mm shoulder high 20's timing 83x74 S475 with a .9 AR t4 housing marine bowl pistons DIY exhaust port work blocks bored 20 over cam might be a 178 or 188 hamilton or it might be stock until i decide where i want to go with it. Drasko __________________ 2018 ram 3500sw daily tow pig 1994 rclb 4x4 ram 2500 new drag truck GONE 99 F250 SD 2wd reg cab longbed FUMMINS!!!!! 96 2500 ECLB 4x4 auto beater slow truck 96 3500 ECLBSW4x4 being rebuilt

03-26-2017, 07:55 PM	#2
Stox5225 Name: Stox5225 Title: Green Behind the Ears Status: Not Here Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Lillington, NC Member`s Gallery Posts: 97	mains and rod hardware opinions I played with the idea of main studs, BUT if you do the studs, you need to have a machine shop line hone where the crank sits. The studs clamp harder than the bolts which can cause the caps to twist a little. So the machine shop will have to install the studs and caps and hone them to prevent binding the crank. Now, there's no guarantee the crank will bind, but if it does ... well you get it. I just retorqued my stock bolts to about 145ft-lbs. Buying new bolts is stupid expensive. I've been told and also read around that the stock bottom end can hold up to about 700hp. As for the connecting rod bolts, definitely get new ARP ones. Not that expensive and certainly better than stock. You shouldn't reuse the ones that came out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ 1997 Cummins 2500; NV4500HD; SB DD; 315/75R16; 3rd Gen Track Bar; 63/65/14; AFC Live; 7mm DV's; 4 GSK; Mac Rack Plug; Custom Fuel System; 5x.012; Colt Cam Big Stick; 60# Springs; PDD Stage 1 Push Rods; O-Ring Head; Head Studs; Fluidampr; Boost/EGT/FP Gauges

03-26-2017, 08:15 PM	#3
Inbred Inline Name: Inbred Inline Title: Bastard child builder Status: Not Here Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: SE Michigan Member`s Gallery Posts: 370	L19 rod bolts are easy to do, FWIW I put 12mm main studs in my 24v block and they didn't move the mains around at all......but 14mm in a 12v block I would NOT do. 14mm studs have a higher torque # and will distort stuff much worse. __________________ 1994 Chevy RCLB C1500 6BT NV4500 2011 GMC CCLB 3500HD LML - STOCK 1992 Club Car, Kubota z430 "Inbred Inline Jr" 2000 Chevy CCSB C3500 3.0 Pro Stock 4x4 "Inbred Inline"-broken junk