he351 install w/ pics

55 psi is where mine gave up the ghost.

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Just remember, a needle valve is a valve and not a regulator. It will only delay the opening of the wg, not increase it. If you used the valve to regulate a small leak in the line between the compressor housing and wastegate, then you would have a crude regulator.
 
yep, that's true. We put the needle valve in that setup just to see what boost would be with and without the wastegate. I would like to put a temporary drive pressure gauge in it.
 
What are you guys doing with the nipple just off of the location where the "electronic" solenoid is being replaced by the screw with the adjustable boost elbow? Is that being welded shut? Does the ATS screw allow this to be used vs. the jkidd screw?
 
Is the inner cooler discharge that is made of steel a true 90 degree bend? Or is it a custom bend? Would there be room for two 90 degree bends made out of steel?
 
I haven't messed with either company's screws. We just gutted the solenoid, and cut part of the outside off so it wasn't such an eyesore.
 
Is there any way to keep the wastegate fully operational? is there enough room to leave the "can" actuator (not the electronic solenoid) in place withe the arm attached? this is why I dont want to clock the compressor.
 
Some guys are saying that once you clock the turbo/compressor it interferes with the exhaust manifold. Diesel_Importer, can you confirm this?
 
coues7 said:
Some guys are saying that once you clock the turbo/compressor it interferes with the exhaust manifold. Diesel_Importer, can you confirm this?
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Well yea it will if you're trying to clock the throat to where ever the exhaust manifold is, then yes it's in the way.

:bang Questions like this make me really my VE was at the house.. I need to get something going before too long; it's going to be time to haul grain soon.
 
Is there any way to keep the wastegate fully operational? is there enough room to leave the "can" actuator (not the electronic solenoid) in place withe the arm attached? this is why I dont want to clock the compressor.
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Of course. I cut the "ears" for the wastegate off of the compressor housing, clocked the housing, and welded a new mount on where I needed it.

That being said...why? Unless you're REALLY overfueled, I'm not sure the HE351 needs to be gated on a 1st gen, unless you're solidly above 450 hp.

--Eric
 
Yea, I like it being wastegated so you can adjust boost where you want it. Especially for guys without headstuds. I think it would be ok without it as long as your injectors aren't huge.
 
just wondering what v band clamp you used to go from the turbo to the flange, I got one but it doesn't fit properly. and leaks when cold..
 
elephantrider said:
clocked or unclocked, you cant use the stock wastegate.
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Actually, you CAN use the stock wastegate whether it's clocked or not. If you clock it differently, you have to weld another mount on the compressor housing though. We left it at factory location and gutted the solenoid. It works flawlessly.
 
diesel_importer said:
Actually, you CAN use the stock wastegate whether it's clocked or not. If you clock it differently, you have to weld another mount on the compressor housing though. We left it at factory location and gutted the solenoid. It works flawlessly.
Click to expand...

let me rephrase. you cant use the stock wastegate on the stock turbo, clocked
or not, without having to weld a new wastegate flange to the turbo body.
 
Sorry to be a d!ck, but it still sounds like ur saying that you have to modify the wastegate even if it's not clocked. That's untrue. You can leave everything stock, you just have to modify the intErcooler piping.
 
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