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Old 02-17-2017, 12:28 AM   #1
mccoywelding
 
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Cool 3rd Gen Dodge 3500 Rear Air Ride Build

Alright, Here we go! This is my first post in the forum so let me know if I messed up with anything.

I've decided to completely scrap my rear suspension on my dodge (2008 6.7 Dodge Ram 3500 G56) and build a parallel 4 link kit with air bags. I'm a welder and I'm going to be swapping a dually axle under the truck along with a pretty heavy welding bed, and a Lincoln 300D welder. I'm estimating around 4k pounds on my truck at all times, and I'll also be towing a lot as well and I wan't it to be strong enough that I wont have any problems towing. Doesn't sound too crazy, right? until you think about pulling a loaded 35 ft trailer going 75 mph down the interstate. So i wanna make sure this build is strong and bulletproof. I wanna stay around 4-6" of lift since I'll be working out of my truck and constantly be climbing in the bed all day. I'll be running Fuel Maverick 20" rims with 35" tires for my setup on the dually with a 20x12 rim up front.

Making this post so y'all can keep up with everything that I screw up haha.

Right now I'm pretty much in the finish design and ordering parts stage. In the next week or two I plan on starting the build. Right off the bat I'm blown away with how much I have to learn about air systems and air bags and what weight bags I need and size of bag. This kit is going to be pretty basic, nothing flashy. Although once I finish this I plan on rebuilding something more for looks in the future. most of the reason I'm building this kit is to learn more about suspension systems and also to improve the dodge ride quality.

Here's some pictures of My truck and the welding bed I plan on putting on the truck. The bed is on the way to sandblasting, and then I'm going to be painting it white to match my truck. I also have a picture of the axle when I first picked it up. whole breaking system needed some work and the parking brake shoes were basically welded to the drums so that was fun. The internals were in perfect shape so I cleaned it up painted it black and resealed it. Sadly I did that and didn't get any good pictures.

3FE6A334-.jpg 1A78E0DD-.jpg 0ECA47F0-.jpg ACC19BF9-.jpg E89BA66F-.jpg FullSizeR.jpg

I added a photo of how I plan on plumbing the air system. I don't know much about air systems but from what I read that setup will work. If someone knows more than me please let me know if you think i should change anything!

Hopefully the next week or 2 I get started then I'll give some better description of parts I used and pictures of how its all gonna be set up. Thanks guys.
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Old 02-17-2017, 02:16 AM   #2
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Welcome to CompD! I'll be following this


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Old 02-17-2017, 07:53 AM   #3
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Other people probably know more than me, but I think you'll want to control each bag individually. Otherwise you go around a corner and weight goes to the inside bag causing body roll.
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Old 02-17-2017, 10:11 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcaad1249 View Post
Other people probably know more than me, but I think you'll want to control each bag individually. Otherwise you go around a corner and weight goes to the inside bag causing body roll.
I think that is why he has the 1 way valves listed on the schematic. Should function properly with a check valve and not cause that rolling.
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Old 02-17-2017, 10:24 AM   #5
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Other people probably know more than me, but I think you'll want to control each bag individually. Otherwise you go around a corner and weight goes to the inside bag causing body roll.


Wrong... control them together.
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Old 02-17-2017, 10:39 AM   #6
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3rd Gen Dodge 3500 Rear Air Ride Build

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Originally Posted by BRE View Post
Wrong... control them together.


Why is it everyone wants to ignore how every single air ride class 8 suspension is plumbed and controlled?

From Air compressor to leveling valve to air bags. Simple and flawless, rides the same height empty as they do loaded with zero driver interaction.
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
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Old 02-17-2017, 10:41 AM   #7
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Welcome to CompD bud! Lots of Knowledgeable people on this site and willing to help. Stoked to see how this turns out.
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Old 02-17-2017, 11:11 AM   #8
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Old 02-17-2017, 12:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaulkner View Post
Why is it everyone wants to ignore how every single air ride class 8 suspension is plumbed and controlled?

From Air compressor to leveling valve to air bags. Simple and flawless, rides the same height empty as they do loaded with zero driver interaction.


This
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Old 02-17-2017, 12:42 PM   #10
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Nice truck, good luck with the build.
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Old 02-17-2017, 02:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaulkner View Post
Why is it everyone wants to ignore how every single air ride class 8 suspension is plumbed and controlled?

From Air compressor to leveling valve to air bags. Simple and flawless, rides the same height empty as they do loaded with zero driver interaction.
Can you be more descriptive? Any pictures of the setup your talking about. Like I said I'm new to the whole air suspension deal.
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Old 02-17-2017, 02:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccoywelding View Post
Can you be more descriptive? Any pictures of the setup your talking about. Like I said I'm new to the whole air suspension deal.
If you control them all together, you can't do font, back and side to side like mexican lowrider.
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Old 02-17-2017, 05:47 PM   #13
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Control each bag individually. What works on a class 8 truck isn't the same as whats going to work on a lifted pickup. Namely the fact that most class 8 trucks are pulling a trailer, so the weight is always in the center on the kingpin. The load is going to be pretty equal between the bags. They are also a two-link design, which is great for simplicity, but their articulation sucks. And because their articulation sucks, you don't have to worry about leaning as much.

Go with either mechanical valves like Hendrickson valves or get a management system. You're gonna go crazy trying to keep it level if you plan to fill the bags manually. Also, 2.5 gallon tank is definitely on the small side for that setup. I'd suggest sizing it so you can go from fully dumped to ride height at your planned weight without needing the compressor. Depending on the bag, that might only be 60 psi, or it might be 90. I've got twin 3 gallon tanks and a single compressor, and it kicks the compressor on going from full dump to ride height with just a RZR in the back. I'll be looking into going to about 15 gallon capacity in the future with an engine driven compressor.
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Old 02-17-2017, 07:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tate View Post
Control each bag individually. What works on a class 8 truck isn't the same as whats going to work on a lifted pickup. Namely the fact that most class 8 trucks are pulling a trailer, so the weight is always in the center on the kingpin. The load is going to be pretty equal between the bags. They are also a two-link design, which is great for simplicity, but their articulation sucks. And because their articulation sucks, you don't have to worry about leaning as much.

Go with either mechanical valves like Hendrickson valves or get a management system. You're gonna go crazy trying to keep it level if you plan to fill the bags manually. Also, 2.5 gallon tank is definitely on the small side for that setup. I'd suggest sizing it so you can go from fully dumped to ride height at your planned weight without needing the compressor. Depending on the bag, that might only be 60 psi, or it might be 90. I've got twin 3 gallon tanks and a single compressor, and it kicks the compressor on going from full dump to ride height with just a RZR in the back. I'll be looking into going to about 15 gallon capacity in the future with an engine driven compressor.
**** I'm surprised I figured a 5 gallon tank would be overkill. Thanks for the response that helps me a lot for figuring out a solid plan. The management systems throw me off because most are designed for Front and rear air management, where my setup is only going to be rear. I don't really wanna pay $3,000 for a management system that I'm only going to use half of it. I also don't need the crazy touch screen control panel that I've noticed a lot come with.

you have any good recommendations for systems that aren't gonna break the bank I'd be more than interested! I'm gonna look into the mechanical valves. I'm nervous about them because I don't wanna have problems where I go through some mud on a job site and screw it up somehow.
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:10 PM   #15
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Accuair
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:14 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Tate View Post
Control each bag individually. What works on a class 8 truck isn't the same as whats going to work on a lifted pickup. Namely the fact that most class 8 trucks are pulling a trailer, so the weight is always in the center on the kingpin. The load is going to be pretty equal between the bags. They are also a two-link design, which is great for simplicity, but their articulation sucks. And because their articulation sucks, you don't have to worry about leaning as much.

Go with either mechanical valves like Hendrickson valves or get a management system. You're gonna go crazy trying to keep it level if you plan to fill the bags manually. Also, 2.5 gallon tank is definitely on the small side for that setup. I'd suggest sizing it so you can go from fully dumped to ride height at your planned weight without needing the compressor. Depending on the bag, that might only be 60 psi, or it might be 90. I've got twin 3 gallon tanks and a single compressor, and it kicks the compressor on going from full dump to ride height with just a RZR in the back. I'll be looking into going to about 15 gallon capacity in the future with an engine driven compressor.
Good advice. Bag wash sucks.
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tate View Post
Control each bag individually. What works on a class 8 truck isn't the same as whats going to work on a lifted pickup. Namely the fact that most class 8 trucks are pulling a trailer, so the weight is always in the center on the kingpin. The load is going to be pretty equal between the bags. They are also a two-link design, which is great for simplicity, but their articulation sucks. And because their articulation sucks, you don't have to worry about leaning as much.



Go with either mechanical valves like Hendrickson valves or get a management system. You're gonna go crazy trying to keep it level if you plan to fill the bags manually. Also, 2.5 gallon tank is definitely on the small side for that setup. I'd suggest sizing it so you can go from fully dumped to ride height at your planned weight without needing the compressor. Depending on the bag, that might only be 60 psi, or it might be 90. I've got twin 3 gallon tanks and a single compressor, and it kicks the compressor on going from full dump to ride height with just a RZR in the back. I'll be looking into going to about 15 gallon capacity in the future with an engine driven compressor.


Wtf are you talking about? With a leveling valve it doesn't matter if your pulling a bumper pull trailer or the bed is full, the valve will fill the bags until the frame is at the pre-set height. Your "the weight is always in the center on the kingpin" doesn't apply to straight trucks (log trucks, vac trucks, stone slingers ect) and they use the same setup. I had this exact setup on my Dodge for years. Had a 12v compressor with a tank in place of the spare tire. Tank had a pressure switch that controlled the compressor. On class 8 stuff that is always heavy on one side they will put a leveling valve on each side but it is rare because simple is always better.

The reason pickup guys don't like it is because they LOVE to tinker. They don't like the fact they can load whatever they want and never touch anything and the truck rides level. They like to push buttons and read gauges. If you want the ability to dump the bags most leveling valves have a dump option. Simply send air to one port from a switch and it will dump.

A lot of Kelderman kits use them, guess you should call and let them know it doesn't work.

For the OP this is what I'm talking about. Valve goes on the frame, rod goes to axle. Load the bed and the valve adds air until it's level.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:43 PM   #18
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Wow the accuair systems are pretty badass ...don't know how I didn't run across this company earlier?! Looks like I may be going that route.
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:55 PM   #19
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I would isolate the bags from one another or run a beefy sway bar. If you don't, just filling the fuel tank will cause body roll.

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Old 02-17-2017, 09:01 PM   #20
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Quote:
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I would isolate the bags from one another or run a beefy sway bar. If you don't, just filling the fuel tank will cause body roll.

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Not sure I'd agree with that. My truck had manual fill bags and they were always kept equal side to side no issue. If running a levelling valve you'll need a compressor on board because it will constantly exhaust and add small amounts because of bumps and what notn
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