Advertisement
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Home Who's Online Today's Posts HP Calculator CompD Gift Shop Mark Forums Read
Go Back   Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together > Tech Area- Dodge > Dodge Tech > 98-02 2nd Gen.
Register Members List Timeslips EFI Live Library Invite Your Friends FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools
Old 01-14-2018, 09:07 PM   #101
BigMurph68
 
BigMurph68's Avatar

Name: BigMurph68
Title: QUINTESSENTIAL STUDMUFFIN
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cedar Grove, TN
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 72
Those headlights really make me tempted to do mine
__________________
Frankie Murphy, 01QCSB 4x4 silver Cummins auto trans edge juice w/ attitude Airdog 100 stage 4 jammers

'92 F-250 rclb 4x4 idi 7.3 400,000mi and still rollin.

Travis G. said I can type whatever I want and no one can mess with me.
 
Old 01-15-2018, 08:23 AM   #102
jlbayes
 
jlbayes's Avatar

Name: jlbayes
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: michigan
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,399
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMurph68 View Post
Those headlights really make me tempted to do mine
Do it. Will not regret them.
__________________
Jacob, 97 rclb
 
Old 01-24-2018, 07:17 PM   #103
thundergunder

Name: thundergunder
Title: Getting it done
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 206
Click the image to open in full size.
Her last voyage as a VP truck.

Sayounara sucker!
__________________
stuff
 
Old 01-24-2018, 08:13 PM   #104
thundergunder

Name: thundergunder
Title: Getting it done
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 206
Click the image to open in full size.
And the tear down begins.

Click the image to open in full size.
Thats done. No surprises. I was worried about what the cam would look like. I know of another one purchased around the same time as mine, and there was nothing left of it when the guy when to ppump his truck. Mine looked brand new. No other surprises either. Other then how well the dowel rod trick works for holding up the tappets! On to the fun stuff!

Click the image to open in full size.
You stay in there little feller! Certainly dont want that KDP falling out!

Click the image to open in full size.
The Keating Machine tappet cover bolted in place. I used some 90* JIC fittings and 180* AN fittings, along with stuffing the cavity of the breather with stainless steel kitchen scrubbers. This was all in an effort to separate as much oil from the blow by as possible. I still get a little puddle every where I park the truck, so im sure its sneaking out pretty good under a pull.

Also a few things about the Keating tappet cover. First off, make sure the o ring cord they send you is long enough. Mine was about 3 inches too short. I bought 6 feet of 1/8 viton oring cord off ebay and trimmed it to fit properly. Also, while the breathers are sealed with an oring, the bolts for the breather are not sealed in anyway, and unless precautions are taken they will leak. I used a little PTFE sealant and sfsg.

Click the image to open in full size.
The "Coil Commander" from Larry B. This little (actually pretty good sized) gizmo is genius in its conception. It takes over control of the fuel shut off solenoid. Typically, one needs to have a key on source for the hold coil, and a start position source for the pull coil. This way when the key is released from the start position, the pull coil is no longer energized. Only the low draw hold coil will be energized.

Well, the Coil Commander only needs a key on source. Those would be the two wires. The three wire side gets connected to the FSS. The Coil Commander will energize the 3rd wire going to the pull coil in the FSS for about 1.5 seconds, then de-energize that wire. This allows you to easily wire the FSS and you'll only need one relay and one fuse. I bought mine from Larry B, but they are way way cheaper on ebay, then just buy the proper 3 pin flat plug to connect to the FSS.

Click the image to open in full size.
Here is my 12 valve TPS to 24 valve APPS adapter harness. Im using all 12v throttle linkage, throttle cable, and TV cable. I didnt want to deal with trying to adapt the 24v APPS to the side of the pump. Its ugly, cumbersome and un-necessary. Plus no need to buy an expensive adapter kit, or try and piece together my own. Ill just stick with all factory Cummins parts, thank you.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Frame mounted the ECM. I got the idea from another TFaoro on CF. No other real good place to put it when your running the Keating tappet cover. Simple bracket made of some sheet metal. There is one hole in the frame in that location, and I drilled another one to suite. Then tapped them to accept an M8x1.25 flange head bolt, and shes not going anywhere.

Click the image to open in full size.
And here she is all snuggled in there!

0402736885 based
Farrell Diesel Service Stage 3 P7100
Serial number: FDSXXXXXX
lift to port closure X.XXmm
359 b&p
191 dv's
stock dv holders
100 plate
modified afc (40 psi boost for full rack travel)
4000 rpm kit
pinned at 18* btdc

max- 440cc
4- 370cc (set)
3- 330cc
2- 300cc
1- 260cc

0 psi boost- 110cc
35 psi boost- 370cc

Click the image to open in full size.
This is my Radio delete panel. Very simply made. Just took a single DIN adapter plate, wraped it in sheet metal, cut out for the switches, and AFC live. Then covered it in some textured black vinyl from Amazon and called it a day. The switches are from OTRATTW.com, and the AFC lables are from legend-plates.com.

And I still have audio! Im using a WetSound Bluetooth Rocker switch. It fits anywhere a Contura switch will fit, and uses a 3.5mm jack for output. Of course we somehow have to get that to the speakers, so I used a really cheep (sub $25) Pyle marine Amp that would accept the 3.5 mm jack as an input, and had speaker line out. Then used an aftermarket harness adapter for power, ground, lighting for the switches, etc.

Click the image to open in full size.
It is quite the rats nest behind the dash, but the amp, switches, and AFC live plumbing and valves all fit back there! This pic only shows the amp when I wired for testing. with all the other wiring and plumbing back there, its quite the spaghetti factory!

It works great. Audio quality isnt horrible, but I dont really give a crap. There is no fade or balance, but again...I dont care. I listen to books and conservative radio, and very little music. So audio quality isnt that important. And when im in the Grey Goat, I just let the turbzkees sing to me


This is where I stoped taking pictures...for some reason.

I also installed an adjustable pump gear with key, and a DAP billet timing cover.

I like the timing cover because it allows lots of access to the pump gear for easy timing changes. It will allow me to run a waterman pump in the future if necessary. Also if for any reason I need to replace the front crank seal, it will be super easy to do. The crank seal is in its own bolt on retainer, so there would be no need to remove the whole front timing cover to replace the crank seal.

The pump access over, the waterman pump cover, and the crank seal retainer are all oring sealed. But just like the Keating tappet cover, none of the bolts are sealed in anyway, and need to be sealed with something. Again I used PTFE paste, and its working so far.

The DAP cover also has a port in the pump gear access cover. I wasnt sure of its size, as there was no info on there site, and when I called they had no idea what it was. They tried getting a hold of their machinist, to no avail. Eventually they pulled one off the shelf, went to their local hardware supplier and informed me it was 3/4 inch conduit, with a 14 thread pitch....um what...conduit. WTF would anyone use conduit thread for a timing cover port. Most use ORB fititng. Well, it turns out its no conduit, but rahter 3/4" NPT. Conduit and NPT are the same thread size and count, only NPT is tapered.
__________________
stuff
 
Old 01-24-2018, 08:33 PM   #105
thundergunder

Name: thundergunder
Title: Getting it done
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 206
So, now that its all together how does it run?!

At first I was majorly concerned. It would start very slowly. Turned over fast, but took awhile to start then would idle at around 450 rpm, then suddenly jump to 850... Then it wouldnt start at all with out just touching the throttle. Also it would die as soon as you put it in gear...

I got a hold of Seth the next day and after a few adjustments we had it going! Took one click out of the gov springs, (which meant we had to rest idle) and all is well now!

Idle is smooth, and power is SMOOTH!

When I first did all the work to the truck, and it had 6/13 injectors in it, it would buck, and jerk and carry on when in lock up (drive or OD) if I was at light throttle and lower RPM. In other words cruising. So it was really no fun to drive unless you were flooring it... I swapped the 6/13 for some custom 8/11s from Weston, and it smoothed out a good bit, but was still a bucking bronc. There were times I thought the drive shaft would come flying out. I couldnt use OD unless I was at 60mph either....

Now with the P pump I can be locked in OD at 38mph and just touching the throttle and its smooth sailing. Now, there is no reason to drive around like that, but it was a test to see how it would act. The truck is once again pleasant to drive!

So far the Fass is holding a very steady 62 psi at idle, and under a pull drops to about 59psi. It is a Fass 220, with their regulator in the return line from the Fass, and a Tork Tek 060 OFV in the return line on the p pump.

I have zero faith that the Fass will last too long at those pressure, but so far so good. I did have to install a 25amp fuse though, lol. But im not too worried about that, as I built my own harness using 12ga wire to the Fass.

I still have some tuning to do with the AFC live controls. I am using a EAS sensor on my Edge Insite to monitor AFC pressure, which is nice, because that should give me an idea of how much fuel im actually throwing at it.

Only ran into one issue, (so far) of course the effer had to leak where the block, pan and timing case meet; even though I used Ultra Grey RTV. No way I was tearing it back apart to reseal that area.... So I cleaned the area with starter fluid, brake cleaner, and compressed air. Then took some of the aforementioned RTV and smeared a little over the spot where it was leaking. I let it set for 24hrs, and drove the truck about 35-40 miles today, which is the most its been driven in 4 months!, and it didnt leak a drop. I hope it stays that way.


Im hoping Ill get it lifted by spring....but we'll see.

We're throwing a disc brake D80 SRW and non CAD D60 out or an 02 under my buddies 98 12v truck now. Needs better braking and 4.10 gears! So as long as that goes smooth, I might actually get to lift the Grey Goat before work picks back up!
__________________
stuff

Last edited by thundergunder; 01-24-2018 at 08:36 PM.
 
Old 01-24-2018, 08:37 PM   #106
thundergunder

Name: thundergunder
Title: Getting it done
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 206
Oh the head lights are in too. I havnt had it out at night, and need to aim them yet...but the look killer....
__________________
stuff
 
Old 01-24-2018, 10:44 PM   #107
WUnderwood
 
WUnderwood's Avatar

Name: WUnderwood
Title: CompD Minion
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Texas
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 8,418
Great write up and pics, very tastefully thought out sir.
__________________
2011 Ford F-150 Lariat 4X4

Click the image to open in full size.

RIP BFD99, jponder, and Forrest Nearing
 
Old 01-25-2018, 04:48 AM   #108
Stormin08
 
Stormin08's Avatar

Name: Stormin08
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: St Louis area / Lake Charles LA.
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 55
As always...very well done.
__________________
02 Sport with some upgrades
 
Old 01-29-2018, 06:08 PM   #109
DieselWrencher
 
DieselWrencher's Avatar

Name: DieselWrencher
Title: 6cyl Vette
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mitchellville, Ia
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,886
Nice work on it. The next time I get a billet tappet cover, it will have baffles in it.
__________________
1968 Corvette 12v Cummins Compounds 47RH
1976 K30 CC SWB 12v 47RH
2000 Excursion VE 24v 47RH 4x4
1972 K30 Longhorn P-Pumped 24v 47RH Compounds
 
Old 01-30-2018, 11:54 AM   #110
thundergunder

Name: thundergunder
Title: Getting it done
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 206
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselWrencher View Post
Nice work on it. The next time I get a billet tappet cover, it will have baffles in it.

It still blows a lot of oil out...
__________________
stuff
 
Old 01-30-2018, 08:06 PM   #111
DieselWrencher
 
DieselWrencher's Avatar

Name: DieselWrencher
Title: 6cyl Vette
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mitchellville, Ia
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,886
Well that blows. I have a large catch can/breather on mine. I put dang near P drains in brass fittings at my tappet cover. The hoses are routed over to the can and it definitely slowed down the oil coming out. Now I just need to get my drain hooked up to the block some where. Haha
__________________
1968 Corvette 12v Cummins Compounds 47RH
1976 K30 CC SWB 12v 47RH
2000 Excursion VE 24v 47RH 4x4
1972 K30 Longhorn P-Pumped 24v 47RH Compounds
 
Old 01-30-2018, 11:20 PM   #112
RascalMafia
 
RascalMafia's Avatar

Name: RascalMafia
Title: heyyyyyyy girrrrrrrl
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Middle GA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 5,511
Nice thread and truck. I really dig that radio delete panel

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
__________________
'18 Chevy 2500
'14 Cruze Diesel
'04 Lincoln Towncar
'01 F350 7.3 / ZF6


 
Old 02-05-2018, 12:24 PM   #113
jkidd
 
jkidd's Avatar

Name: jkidd
Title: Diesel Auto Power
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Kaysville UT
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 118
Nice write up!
__________________
www.DieselAutoPower.com--------Military Discounts Available-------- Dealer Accounts Welcome

Monday- Friday 8AM-5PM Call 801-282-6037
 
Old 07-24-2018, 09:12 PM   #114
thundergunder

Name: thundergunder
Title: Getting it done
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 206
I have an update for you guys.

I knew the FASS wasnt going to sustain the pressures I was asking out of it so I took a preemptive strike this time rather then being stranded on the side of the road, waiting for a buddy to bring a trailer.

I installed a Holley 12-1800 fuel pump along with everything I need to use it. That included:
Aeromotive 12324 100 micron prefilter
Fleetgaurd 142784S Filter heads x2
Aeromotive 13138 Adjustable fuel regulator
A few more -10 fittings I didnt already have
An unrestricted banjo bolt in the ppump return instead of an OFV
Home made pump and filter brackets
New lines

Almost none of the previous hoses I made would work with the new mounting solutions and locations I came up with so new hoses were in order. This time around I orderd Vibrant hoses, as the Summit brand hoses I usually order were out of stock. I wont be buying summit hoses any more. the Vibrant hoses, are a much nicer hose to work with and do not kink any were near as easily as the Summit hoses. I ordered 20 feet of -10 and -6 and used nearly all of each. They have 15 foot rolls as well and I dont think it would have been enough for me.

Anyway on to mounting. The pump mounting is very simple. Kind of FASS style that uses a single bed bolt to hang the mount. I dont really like the idea of one bolt holding on the fuel system, but the FASS weights about twice as much, maybe more, then this set up and never came loose and never gave me any issues in that regard.

Click the image to open in full size.
Dont mind the Eye bolt. It was something handy to hold the pump in place untill the bed went back on. In this picture you can see the simplicity of the mount I made. The pump pulls fuel from the Liberty module via a 5/8 draw straw, through the Aeromotive 100 micon pre filter.

Click the image to open in full size.
The hose goes around the mount and enters the Holley 12-1800.

Click the image to open in full size.
The Holley 12-1800 is rated at 200gph at 8 psi and using their provided charts should move around 150gph at 50psi. It is a stout arse pump!

Click the image to open in full size.
The pump in this location is tucked up nice and high.

The fuel then enters in to a common set of fuel filters, the Fleetgaurd FS1212 water separator and the Fleetgaurd FS5320 fuel filter. I connected the filter bases with the proper -10ORB X -10ORB fitting and attached the filters then started holding it in places where I thought I would like them mounted. I finally decided on the perfect spot IMO. In front of the fuel tank, behind the transfercase.

I used some cardboard to make a few templates, and came up with something that allowed me to use factory frame holes, kept the filters high and out of sight, well protected.

Click the image to open in full size.
This mount is very simple as well! I had some 10ga sheet bent and then used my cardboard template to trace out what I needed to whittle out of it. In the end I had to kiss the floor with a hammer and brass drift to clear the one corner of the filter mount. I only took about 1/4" of massaging to get in to place.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Turned out pretty great IMO! You can also see in the very first picture of the mount that the hard brake line running to the rear is starting to look suspect. This always seems to be the case, and its always in each spot near the mounting locations. Knowing this, and the fact that I was pulling the bed for this job I ordered up a complete stainless steel brake line kit from Dorman. A few years ago the only stainless steel hard brake line kit option was from EGR/Circle track supply. That kit was around $400. I used the EGR kit on my last truck as it was a really great kit just expensive. This Dorman kit is around $115!!!! And while so far I have only used this rear line, the fit was perfect. I couldnt have been happier with it, especially at the price!

I used a 120* fitting on the outlet of the filter bases, but probably could have gone with a 150* bend. It still works out great though. From there it runs up into the engine bay to a 10an X 8AN Y Block where I dual feed the pump.

The return fuel exits the pump through an unrestricted bajno bolt. Fuel pressure is regulated though the Aeromotive regulator that I have mounted to the fire wall.

Click the image to open in full size.
This then returns to the tank via is own 6an retun line. I did not want to restrict return flow though the factory 5/16 return line and fittings.

The original return line tees in with the injector return on the back of the head. I removed the tee in the line and installed a straight fitting instead. The factory return line is an 8mm or 5/16 flared line that used thick square cut orings to seal the line, but the fittings used are 3/8 compression fittings. Really strange how Cummins speced that out, but it does work. heres a link to the straight fitting if you ever need it. Its Anderson Metals part number 50062. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This system works GREAT!!! First off it is virtually silent! Even with the engine not running, you nearly have to put your ear to it to hear it running. Yes it really is that quite! Second, the regulator is set at about 55-56psi at idle right not. On a WOT pull, I've only seen it down to 53 psi. To me thats impressive when you consider my past lift pump experiences.... Plus with the amount of fuel it can move, I should NEVER run out of fuel.

One note though. On Holleys website they do not recommend using this pump on a street vehicle that sees ambiant temps of 90* or higher as youll cook the pump. In a diesel application you can simply ignore that.... Diesel fuel cools pumps better then gas, and while I knew this I called Holley to see what they had to say about it and the tech assured me that the overheating issue goes out the window when you use diesel fuel.
__________________
stuff
 
Old 07-24-2018, 09:16 PM   #115
thundergunder

Name: thundergunder
Title: Getting it done
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 206
I also got the Fox 2.0 steering stabilizer mounted...finally. Its only been sitting on the shelf for 2 years.

Click the image to open in full size.


And one more thing....

Click the image to open in full size.
Big turbos sure are pretty

This one happens to be a 476 SX-e 10 blade with the 96mm turbine. Should make for a pretty stout primary when ever that happens. Frickin ebay got me! Was just toolin aorund one night and this pretty sucker came up for about $600 off retail so I couldnt let it slip by at that price. Part number 14009097013



Click the image to open in full size.
Ol' girl is pretty out there sitting by her self.

Oh and I replaced the starter with a new Denso unit. The cheepo parts store starter quite on me....course it hadnt been getting used regularly either. Also had to replace the original wiper motor. Again I feel like lake of use had something to do with it. Ive put less then 1000 (yes one thousand) miles on it in the last 2 years.
__________________
stuff

Last edited by thundergunder; 07-24-2018 at 09:26 PM.
 
Old 07-24-2018, 09:17 PM   #116
thatguy69
 
thatguy69's Avatar

Name: thatguy69
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mansfield Ohio
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,023
How much for your old fass

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
__________________
1999 Compound 24v Rust Rocket
2008 F350 P24v/Allison
 
Old 07-24-2018, 09:22 PM   #117
thundergunder

Name: thundergunder
Title: Getting it done
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 206
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatguy69 View Post
How much for your old fass

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

It has no fittings, or hoses. But does come with a fass regulator, as well as the original ball and spring. Its a 220 so pretty over kill for a VP truck. Plus I dont think the fass regulator is the right one for a VP truck (but they only make one)

Id like to get $450 OBO for it and can include a set of new filter. (plus ship) Its got MAYBE 20k on it.
__________________
stuff
 
Closed Thread

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:08 AM.

 


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2006 - 2024, CompetitionDiesel.com
all information found on this site is property of www.competitiondiesel.com