14mm head studs failure

[DISTURBED]

So I moved my old 2.6 truck the other day out from in front of the combine so I could get it out for harvest. It's been moved for a few weeks maybe a month. Me and my boy were messing around in the bay where the truck was setting and he said he found a bolt in the gravel, so I told him to let me see it. Well it wasn't a bolt but instead a stud with the nut on it. So I go over to my truck and sure enough one of the short studs buy the manifold is gone. So the only thing I can figure is when it broke it shot out of the hole???? Anyone else ever seen something crazy like this?

[9724VF350]

Not exactly relevant to your question, but I'm going to be needing 14mm head studs soon, probably several sets. I'm thinking about using ARP 14mm main studs for everything but the rockers (12V), making spacers for the 6 exhaust side studs, and having ARP make the long ones.

[kleann]

^ I've seen the spacer thing done before so you can use more of the same sized hardware.

[DISTURBED]

The spacer idea is interesting.

[9724VF350]

It's gives you more consistent clamp, and the studs I've seen broke are most commonly the short ones.

[turbo2387]

Wonder what the pipe is made of to not deform? Neat looking.

[9724VF350]

The ones I've made are 1" od 1/4" wall.

Ever wonder why 24v manifold bolts have spacers? It keeps the bolts from loosening up.

[Red Sleeper]

Originally Posted by 9724VF350

The ones I've made are 1" od 1/4" wall.



Ever wonder why 24v manifold bolts have spacers? It keeps the bolts from loosening up.

More of a constant tension idea. Never even thought about this.

Though I'd sure want to machine some out of round bar, not just a piece of pipe that has a weld seam.

[9724VF350]

Originally Posted by Red Sleeper

More of a constant tension idea. Never even thought about this.

Though I'd sure want to machine some out of round bar, not just a piece of pipe that has a weld seam.

I use structural steel tubing from Mcmaster-Carr

[CorneliusRox]

You could do some simple math, but I would bet using some DOM mild steel would be just fine. It's going to be quite a bit harder than the cast iron head it's on anyways. Might want to use a washer at the bottom of the spacer too.

[Persingerpulling]

That’s how (Monster Pump) Mike built his 12v studs. I’ve never had an issue with mine other then getting ahold of him to get longer ones....

[bigstacks95]

Originally Posted by 9724VF350

Not exactly relevant to your question, but I'm going to be needing 14mm head studs soon, probably several sets. I'm thinking about using ARP 14mm main studs for everything but the rockers (12V), making spacers for the 6 exhaust side studs, and having ARP make the long ones.

14MM XHD, L-19, HEAD STUDS, CUMMINS, 12 VALVE, 24 VALVE, BOTTOM TAP Haisley Machine

Why try to re-invent the wheel? I think Jeremy's situation is the exception, not the normal. I've been 3 seasons on my Haisley 14mm studs with countless re-torques and they are still fine. They aren't much more than regular ARP 12mm studs

[9724VF350]

Originally Posted by bigstacks95

14MM XHD, L-19, HEAD STUDS, CUMMINS, 12 VALVE, 24 VALVE, BOTTOM TAP Haisley Machine

Why try to re-invent the wheel? I think Jeremy's situation is the exception, not the normal. I've been 3 seasons on my Haisley 14mm studs with countless re-torques and they are still fine. They aren't much more than regular ARP 12mm studs

Because to do 5 sets, I have a $1872.75 allowance to get 30 long studs made, and the nuts and washers. I end up with a better setup with the longer exhaust side studs, I prefer ARP, and I'll actually have a bit bigger allowance than that since a good friend of mine is a ARP dealer.

I'm not trying to create a 5 stroke cycle engine here, it's freaking hardware.

[Bodacious]

Originally Posted by kleann

^ I've seen the spacer thing done before so you can use more of the same sized hardware.

That's a sweet looking engine.

[DISTURBED]

Originally Posted by bigstacks95

14MM XHD, L-19, HEAD STUDS, CUMMINS, 12 VALVE, 24 VALVE, BOTTOM TAP Haisley Machine

Why try to re-invent the wheel? I think Jeremy's situation is the exception, not the normal. I've been 3 seasons on my Haisley 14mm studs with countless re-torques and they are still fine. They aren't much more than regular ARP 12mm studs

This is definitely not the norm. Thats why I was asking if anyone else had seem them fly out after they broke. I've broke studs torquing them but never seen them break for no reason. I've torqued these a few times and they have been installed in this engine for 2 years fine till recently.

[SledPuller21]

I’ll assume that was a L-19 grade 14mm stud? If so, L-19 material is very succeptible to hydrogen embrittlement and stress corrosion. Leaving them sit outside un-oiled or not ran for long periods of time would cause that. That’s why we either use standard 2000 or 625 material on head studs, and L-19 only on rod bolts.

[kleann]

Originally Posted by Bodacious

That's a sweet looking engine.

It looks better now with the 24v setup, although the No Llimit rockers are much better than the SMT setup now.

[Bodacious]

Originally Posted by kleann

It looks better now with the 24v setup, although the No Llimit rockers are much better than the SMT setup now.

I'm really liking those rockers. Ever thought of selling??

[Red Sleeper]

Originally Posted by SledPuller21

I’ll assume that was a L-19 grade 14mm stud? If so, L-19 material is very succeptible to hydrogen embrittlement and stress corrosion. Leaving them sit outside un-oiled or not ran for long periods of time would cause that. That’s why we either use standard 2000 or 625 material on head studs, and L-19 only on rod bolts.

So what grade steel are 625's or 2000 studs?

Are 425's a different grade yet?

It looks as if that stud was fatigued for a while, and finally gave way when you moved the truck.

[DISTURBED]

Originally Posted by SledPuller21

I’ll assume that was a L-19 grade 14mm stud? If so, L-19 material is very succeptible to hydrogen embrittlement and stress corrosion. Leaving them sit outside un-oiled or not ran for long periods of time would cause that. That’s why we either use standard 2000 or 625 material on head studs, and L-19 only on rod bolts.

These are A1's which I think are H-11's