oliver puller

horsinaround9

horsinaround9

New member
Hey everyone Iam new to pulling and interested in doing a oliver puller. Mostly all ih pullers in my area and a oliver would be different. I would want to do a 6bt swap. I really like the small cummins and from what I have read in other threads on here it is a fairly easy swap. What size oliver am I looking for ?? 1650 ?? 1850 ?? will a 1650 rear and trans hold up with a turned up p pump cummins or maybe a 24v p pump swapped cummins ?? say app 500 hp. I just want to do a tractor for local pulls. It wont ever hit the farm again so no pto or anything. Like I said Iam just getting into pulling and dont know much so any info is appreciated. What does a 1650 weight in at ?? and a 1850 ???
 
How light do you want to get it? A 1650 chassis can get down to about 5500, 1850 chassis will be about 6500. Both of those are no hydraulics, pto, 2/3 speed, just a bare bones stripped pulling chassis.
 
To be honest I dont know lol . Iam just getting into it. I have some friends running built 1066's but I cant afford to go pay 10-15k for a nice stock 1066 and then build it. The smaller ih 560.660 etc a fairly cheap and theres a few around w dt466 swaps but I was thinking to go alittle outside the box. Olivers seem very cheap and I know its easy to get big power out of a 6bt. What kind of power will a 1650 hold up to ?? and for a 6bt do I need a industrial engine or will a cummins out of a dodge pu work ??
 
How much power a 1650 will take depends on some variables. If you plan on running cut 20.8X38's and weighing 12,000 lbs, 500hp is enough. If you want to run 6500 with 18.4X34 cuts or 18.4X38 non cuts, throw 8-900 at it. For what you're doing I'd probably start with a 215hp (887 or 913 pump) truck engine.

A industrial engine may have more of the correct parts to make it fit the tractor nicely, but usually they are quite a bit more money than the truck engine, and usually don't have a pump that has much performance potential without spending a bunch of money on it.

Also, are you dealing with a rpm limit?
 
no theres no rpm limit. basically there is farm stock and then just super stock 5500 65 75 etc etc.Not much for rules. so a 215 hp 12v p pump truck motor should work fine for a start ?? Now for bell housing, I would need a 1850 bell and 1850 front rails correct ?? And as far as flywheel and clutch ??
 
subscribed. also verry interested in this. I have an old oliver 1650 on the farm i would like to fix up and pull. Im thinking it would be better route to stuff a cummins in there instead of taking time trying to make the stocker thats in there work.
 
I have the oppurtunity to pick up 1850 front tub along with the bellhousing and sae adapter. The 1850 front rails would make the cummins swap easier correct ??
 
If you are using the 1650, the 1850 frame will not work, it won't bolt to the 1650 rear end, you have to modify the 1650 frame. If you have 55,65,75 ect classes, I'd go for that. A good running 16 is alot of fun in the lighter classes.

The housing on the back of the engine (flywheel housing) is specific to the 5.9, one off a 1850 will not work. The one that is normally on the front of the hydra-power or over/under (clutch housing) would work, but you would need to bolt the front cover out of the hydra-power or over/under into it so you have a place for your throwout bearing to ride. They also made this housing for a straightshaft which would be best if you could find one, about 20lbs lighter.

Flywheel for your application, custom steel or aluminum. I'm planning on making a aluminum one for my new tractor, and going with a pretty basic 4 disc pedal clutch.


Modified 1650 frame.
1655Frame005.jpg

1655Frame004.jpg


On my new tractor I'm going to modify a oil pan so I don't have to modify the opening in the bottom of the frame, just take the mounts out of it.
 
9724VF350 said:
If you are using the 1650, the 1850 frame will not work, it won't bolt to the 1650 rear end, you have to modify the 1650 frame. If you have 55,65,75 ect classes, I'd go for that. A good running 16 is alot of fun in the lighter classes.

The housing on the back of the engine (flywheel housing) is specific to the 5.9, one off a 1850 will not work. The one that is normally on the front of the hydra-power or over/under (clutch housing) would work, but you would need to bolt the front cover out of the hydra-power or over/under into it so you have a place for your throwout bearing to ride. They also made this housing for a straightshaft which would be best if you could find one, about 20lbs lighter.

Flywheel for your application, custom steel or aluminum. I'm planning on making a aluminum one for my new tractor, and going with a pretty basic 4 disc pedal clutch.


Modified 1650 frame.
1655Frame005.jpg

1655Frame004.jpg


On my new tractor I'm going to modify a oil pan so I don't have to modify the opening in the bottom of the frame, just take the mounts out of it.
Click to expand...


i have a 1650 that has the hydra power. so what would i need to bolt the cummins to the oliver transmission? and would the rearend hold up to say 500hp?
 
dodgemaniac said:
i have a 1650 that has the hydra power. so what would i need to bolt the cummins to the oliver transmission? and would the rearend hold up to say 500hp?
Click to expand...

The 1650 2 speed uses a 1 1/2 19 spline imput shaft with fairly short splines on it. This limits you to a single disc 13" clutch. For 500 hp you're going to need a 2 disc, and you'll need to jump up to a 1 3/4 27 spline imput, 1750 on up used that. That imput can be put in your 2 speed, or just use the complete 1750 ect 2 speed. (or upgrade to a 3 speed)
With the proper 5.9 flywheel housing, and the Oliver/White Cluch housing, the 2 speed will bolt right up.

A straightshaft is a pretty cheap easy solution if you're okay with it.

500 hp.. What are you're plans for the tractor? weight, tires, ect.
 
9724VF350 said:
The 1650 2 speed uses a 1 1/2 19 spline imput shaft with fairly short splines on it. This limits you to a single disc 13" clutch. For 500 hp you're going to need a 2 disc, and you'll need to jump up to a 1 3/4 27 spline imput, 1750 on up used that. That imput can be put in your 2 speed, or just use the complete 1750 ect 2 speed. (or upgrade to a 3 speed)
With the proper 5.9 flywheel housing, and the Oliver/White Cluch housing, the 2 speed will bolt right up.

A straightshaft is a pretty cheap easy solution if you're okay with it.

500 hp.. What are you're plans for the tractor? weight, tires, ect.
Click to expand...

so i would need the 2 speed from a 1750 or 1850? and the bellhousing from the same?

My only disavantages to going with a straightshaft would be losing the option to drop my overall gearing while going down the track correct? But would it be a stronger overall option??



I say 500hp because i believe thats roughly what my truck is making now and if i did this i would be using the whole engine or atleast the turbo, and injectors that my truck is running now. You mentioned earlier that a 1650 could get down to 5500lbs. my local places have classes a t 6, 8,10 and 12 so i would shoot for those but hopefully the lower classes. the tires that are on now are a 16.5 x 38 i believe.

Im unsure if i would want to fully gut it now. If it would be easy to keep the pto function i might but if not i would fully gut it.
 
You're not going to want to shift the 2 speed while putting it under a 500hp load. It won't take that. At that power level you just want to put it in a range and leave it there.

Having a functional pto at this point makes things a bit more complicated, flywheel has to be built to accept a splined pto shaft, straightshaft which is usually custom made has to be hollow.

2 speed can be out of a 17 or 18, the clutch housing has to be out of the 1850. 1750 was a waukesha which has a different housing.
 
9724VF350 said:
You're not going to want to shift the 2 speed while putting it under a 500hp load. It won't take that. At that power level you just want to put it in a range and leave it there.

Having a functional pto at this point makes things a bit more complicated, flywheel has to be built to accept a splined pto shaft, straightshaft which is usually custom made has to be hollow.

2 speed can be out of a 17 or 18, the clutch housing has to be out of the 1850. 1750 was a waukesha which has a different housing.
Click to expand...

first ia ppologize if im asking to many questions just trying to get things strait

so if i get the clutch housing out of an 18 i can use a straitshaft ore 2 speed and bolt right up? would the straightshaft have to be custom made?

It sounds like to much hassle and more failure points to keep pto function so i would likely go without and fully gut the tractor for weight savings.



what power level do you think it would take to compete in say a 8000 lb tuff farm class?


also if you have any more pics from your projects i would enjoy seeing them. im a verry visual person

thanks
 
dodgemaniac said:
first ia ppologize if im asking to many questions just trying to get things strait

so if i get the clutch housing out of an 18 i can use a straitshaft ore 2 speed and bolt right up? would the straightshaft have to be custom made?

It sounds like to much hassle and more failure points to keep pto function so i would likely go without and fully gut the tractor for weight savings.



what power level do you think it would take to compete in say a 8000 lb tuff farm class?


also if you have any more pics from your projects i would enjoy seeing them. im a verry visual person

thanks
Click to expand...

No problem, ask as many questions as you like.
The clutch housing out of a 18 will work either straightshaft or 2 speed, if you go straightshaft you'll need to bolt a plate into it to support the throwout bearing.
Usually the straightshaft is custom made just because used ones are very hard to find, so I guess it's not exactly custom, just reproduction.

Hp to be competitive is a hard to answer question. That vary's all over the country. Around here you better be around 1000 in a 8500 hot/modified farm class if you want to be somebody.

I'll get more pictures up soon.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIxqko9LXKc&feature=autoplay&list=ULQxTEZew6kT4&index=3&playnext=1"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIxqko9LXKc&feature=autoplay&list=ULQxTEZew6kT4&index=3&playnext=1[/ame]
 
It would be close, stripped to the max, aluminum flywheel, maybe aluminum clutch housing, 18.4X34 field and roads on light wheels (or smaller), weld on hubs, light box tube wide front, might have to make a dash pedestal. Not gonna promise anything on that one, but if there were 5000lb turbo classes around here I'd have one in it.

You can cut the frame off ahead of the front "crossmember" (I guess you could call it that, even though it's cast in) and fabricate from there out to hold the grille, radiator and front axle, or make a steel frame.

Fenders would be a excellent idea on a 800hp 5000lb ride, but they'd have to be light.
 
I normally pull 6500 with 300lb on the front, a 100lb front weight rack, 250lb of fenders and brackets, 3 speed, hydraulics, stock fairly heavy narrow front and steering box. My hitch and wheelie bars could be put on a diet also.
 
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