Axle wrap with traction bars?

fosterriley

fosterriley

Just wanna go fast
I installed some 40" long traction bars with ballistic 2.63 joints on my 2006 ram 2500. Still getting wheelhop/ axle wrap I've tried running no load on them and Preload. Same results either way.
 
Here are some pictures. It was being a pain and would only let me upload them in PDF version.
 

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You're likely flexing your leafs then. I like the style that hook onto the axle top and bottom, then have a shackle up front. That way you take that stress off the leafs, have more control, and don't bind.

turbo_coffin said:
Because those are only attaching to the axle at one point the axle can still rotate as much as it wants to
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Maybe if you take the leaf springs off! :lolly:
 
CorneliusRox said:
You're likely flexing your leafs then. I like the style that hook onto the axle top and bottom, then have a shackle up front. That way you take that stress off the leafs, have more control, and don't bind.



Maybe if you take the leaf springs off! :lolly:
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Precisely
 
The angle of the bars are probably working against the leaf spring arc making it hop, not wrap. You can have single bars that don't bind for more travel than these leafs will allow.
 
Marq92 said:
The angle of the bars are probably working against the leaf spring arc making it hop, not wrap. You can have single bars that don't bind for more travel than these leafs will allow.
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I think that is more what it's doing. I also filled up my tires from 40psi to 55psi and it decreased as well. Then threw on a different set of tires and it eliminated it. Odd.

DieselheaD said:
How many leafs do you have?
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Full leaf pack with the 3 spacers flipped to the top. Thinking of pulling overloads.


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This is the design I used for my traction bars. They work very well for weight transfer and locking the rear in place but allowing for movement. Granted, it is a full race only vehicle, only have 2 leafs in the rear as well as a ubolt flip kit to remove the lift block, and a shackle flip kit on the back of the leafs.

Traction bars
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40psi boosted launch
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Normal rear ride height
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Doesn't having a shackle in place where the bars meet the frame ruin the whole purpose of having traction bars? As you apply momentum the rear end wants to move, so the bars are supposed to hold it in place, but now that you have a shackle wont the bars just move the shackle back and fourth, thus allowing the rear end to still pivot? Im just a rookie puller so im just trying to learn.
 
When you get axle wrap, the differential is trying to twist, the long traction bars prevent that and are held in place by the connection at the frame. The shackle is there to help with suspension travel so that it doesn't bind as the suspension cycles. I have solid rubber mounts in the back at the axle and heim joints at the 2 bars connection point and at the frame point. If I was doing hard core off roading and needed more flex, I'd make the front where it could swivel as well
 
If you run a shackle you need two mounting points on the top and bottom of the axle, and that is the extent I know about that lol. Such as what shackle angle is best, as well as what points on the axle.
 
Duramaxfan03 said:
Doesn't having a shackle in place where the bars meet the frame ruin the whole purpose of having traction bars? As you apply momentum the rear end wants to move, so the bars are supposed to hold it in place, but now that you have a shackle wont the bars just move the shackle back and fourth, thus allowing the rear end to still pivot? Im just a rookie puller so im just trying to learn.
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You're thinking of it more like coil springs work.
With leafs, you can let the leaf hold the axle fore aft (and obviously vertically). The issue is pinion angle (axle rotation). With NakeDiesels setup (the best setup IMO), you make a triangle off the axle that's rotationally rigid, but can flex in the lateral direction because of the bushings at the axle, and can 'float' in the fore aft direction because of the shackle. What it will constantly do is provide rotational support, and what it wont do is create binding.
Other than the weight involved, it's the best/simplest setup you can do for a leaf spring rear. And I mean that for pulling, mud, drag, street, and towing.

There are others that try different stuff. I know FirePunk does a full four link rear and binds the leaf spring on purpose, but they gain more control over pinion angle and can keep it the same angle throughout travel. This setup will give you less pinion angle change per inch of travel, the longer you make it.
 
only downside to the triangulated/shackle setup is that is does not prevent the axle from "plowing" which is when it translates the energy that would normally be axle wrap, to flexing into a "dog track" position. Of course that takes a generous amount of torque to cause that which many street driven and lower power trucks will never experience.
 
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