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Sled Pulling From Street to Pro-Mod, get your Sled Pulling fix here!

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Old 01-27-2019, 12:01 AM   #1
Maded24v
 
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Workstock pulling project

New to the group, hoping for some pictures of homemade traction bar setups, most places I've looked don't offer much for 2nd gen Dodges (to buy) which makes me want to build a set even more. Plan on 2" with .25 or .375" wall, probably in the 80" total length area when done. Will still be driven on street but mostly setting up to pull. so go with true Johnny joint or heim or rigid/ bushing style? I know it's been talked about but wanting more ideas and input, thanks
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Old 01-27-2019, 07:13 AM   #2
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I went a hiem joint setup (actually used tractor 3rd link) on my first setup. Some like short others long.. I ran them from under rear axle to just before the doors.. with the links you can loosen up for street and tighten up for pulling. I would also look into building an adjustable bump stop to limit travel when pulling..
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Old 01-27-2019, 07:29 AM   #3
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When we built mine we used dom tubing with heim joints. Very strong setup. I don't recall what size dom tubing was used. Gonna have them for sale soon. They went from rear axle to just about inline with the door line on a eclb 2nd gen dodge.

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Old 01-27-2019, 09:43 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanss22 View Post
I went a hiem joint setup (actually used tractor 3rd link) on my first setup. Some like short others long.. I ran them from under rear axle to just before the doors.. with the links you can loosen up for street and tighten up for pulling. I would also look into building an adjustable bump stop to limit travel when pulling..
When you say bump stop I assume you mean limiting the leaf spring travel? That's one of the things we aren't allowed to do, even if it allows 2" travel, it's illegal, BUT we can run airbags, that's my plan as of now
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:47 AM   #5
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Also, if anyone has input what size tubing to use, I do plan on changing my fuel / air setup to s366 and 6x16's. Should he making a little more after that
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Old 01-27-2019, 10:13 AM   #6
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I would check your inlet regulations on “workstock”. A lotta guys run 3 inch .250 wall DOM pipe, but still bend them eventually. My buddies 3.0 truck has .250 wall tube.
 
Old 01-27-2019, 10:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
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I would check your inlet regulations on “workstock”. A lotta guys run 3 inch .250 wall DOM pipe, but still bend them eventually. My buddies 3.0 truck has .250 wall tube.
I thought 2" would be plenty with 3/8 wall... I was even considering.25 thinking I'm probably not going to make enough power to be bending them. Really think the 3" is necessary? And yes our local rules just changed, "any non common railed engine may run up to a 66mm compressor wheel on charger. "
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Last edited by Maded24v; 01-27-2019 at 10:52 AM.
 
Old 01-27-2019, 11:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maded24v View Post
I thought 2" would be plenty with 3/8 wall... I was even considering.25 thinking I'm probably not going to make enough power to be bending them. Really think the 3" is necessary? And yes our local rules just changed, "any non common railed engine may run up to a 66mm compressor wheel on charger. "
Not necessary. 2” .250 Dom is very common and will work just fine for traction bars on a WS truck.
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Old 01-27-2019, 11:08 AM   #9
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I need to check into pricing more, I guess if the 3/8 wall isn't much more I will do that, just want to know I'm not going to bend or snap bars going down the track with .25, anyone have a favorite tire? Couple guys on other posts swear my the Trxus sts but those are well known for loose/Sandy tracks, where I'm from it's almost always a clay track weather it's packed to the hilt or sometimes to wet, kind of tacky mud
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Old 01-27-2019, 11:34 AM   #10
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I was able to find 2.5" Dom with .250 wall at my local fab shop pretty cheap because it was leftover from a job. I went with huge solid rod ends/hiem joints on both ends which was a mistake on a street driven truck,you need a Johnny joint or something simalar on one end to soak up the constant jarring the rod ends see from the street.otherwise you'll just wear out your hiems like I did mine in 10k miles. Also the longer the are the better they ride, wish I would of made mine longer
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:10 PM   #11
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Ok, this is why I was planning to do 80" or so. This puts the front end somewhere around the middle of the rear door , also following the angle of driveshaft pretty well.
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanss22 View Post
I went a hiem joint setup (actually used tractor 3rd link) on my first setup. Some like short others long.. I ran them from under rear axle to just before the doors.. with the links you can loosen up for street and tighten up for pulling. I would also look into building an adjustable bump stop to limit travel when pulling..
So I understand you want to adjust for street or track use, how much pressure should they have when pulling and how loose for daily driving? It will be daily driven but not much off road. Mostly just going through fields or something around the farm
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:26 PM   #13
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Lotta guys around here run bushings in the back and a rebuildable urethane joint in the front, works just like a heim but lasts a lot longer. Can’t remember what they are called. The Jeep/ off-road guys run them and have good results. Maybe someone knows the name?
 
Old 01-27-2019, 01:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPUMPFUMMINS View Post
Lotta guys around here run bushings in the back and a rebuildable urethane joint in the front, works just like a heim but lasts a lot longer. Can’t remember what they are called. The Jeep/ off-road guys run them and have good results. Maybe someone knows the name?
That's kind of how I'd like to build mine
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:29 PM   #15
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Think thatguy69 is correct on the terminology, think it’s a Johnny joint.
 
Old 01-27-2019, 01:31 PM   #16
Maded24v
 
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The Johnny joint is just a ball in socket correct? So do that in one end, and bushing style (rigid not adjustable) on the other end, most likely rear
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:35 PM   #17
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Only driven on the street with mine, ecsb about 60" made from 2"×1/4" wall square tube. See a lot of pullers use square tube, and it's way less than d.o.m. Hopefully get a chance to pull the truck again this yr. No idea why, but my truck seems to ride better with them. I used heim joints at both ends from ballistic fab, not the high end ones, but not the cheapest either.

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Old 01-27-2019, 01:40 PM   #18
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That's what's getting me, $400 for a set for just the heims and some mounts. Seems a little crazy to me.
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Old 01-27-2019, 06:38 PM   #19
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I run 2” .250” wall DOM with heim joints on each end. They come up to between the front and rear doors right where the frame is boxed. Probably around 15k miles on mine. Not all that impressed but with how they held up to salt as some of them are really stiff. They do seem to make the truck ride smoother when I keep them pretty tight. Just don’t make them too short or too long.
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Old 01-27-2019, 06:57 PM   #20
Maded24v
 
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Well I can say mine won't ever see salt, and most of it's abuse will be from sled pulling. If my setup(engine) allows it may pull farm equipment down the road occasionally but other than that mostly just a straight puller and daily driver when needed
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