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Old 03-30-2017, 05:27 PM   #41
94 12valve
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texashighways View Post
Thanks for posting that Mark. No final pricing yet on the new 6.7l block. We are just now getting our test blocks and heads in. Its got the deck plate cast into the block. Also, gusseted cylinder walls. columns to tie the deck into the mains, .080" thicker cylinder walls per side, round coolant holes around the cylinder wall instead of elongated holes and 1" smaller freeze plug holes. We are also looking at having the front of the block drilled to accept the CR or 6bt front covers.
With the deck plate built into the block how much taller will this block be than the factory?
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Old 03-30-2017, 05:44 PM   #42
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First post says .600". Total deck height of 1.4".
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Old 03-30-2017, 09:55 PM   #43
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Block is oem height. Forgot to mention the oem material is 250mpa strength material, while the new casting is 280 mpa material.
The blocks on our site are oem quality blocks with 7 cam bearings, 14mm head and main bolts.
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Last edited by Texashighways; 03-30-2017 at 10:02 PM.
 
Old 04-02-2017, 07:49 PM   #44
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Maybe I missed it but are any of the blocks adding strength to the cam area? This is where the deckplates are not holding up to the billet blocks.
 
Old 04-02-2017, 09:05 PM   #45
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Ever thought about creating a better-designed, less-prone-to-breaking, reasonably-priced Dmax crank? We're having quite a few issues with the OEM.
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:37 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texashighways View Post
We are also looking at having the front of the block drilled to accept the CR or 6bt front covers.
If I remember right, a couple of the holes are half into each other when you drill a CR block for a P pump cover. You have to plug and redrill in that case.

Now a new P pump gear housing that bolts right on and moves the pump a long way from the intake............
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Old 04-03-2017, 04:00 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by TheBac View Post
Ever thought about creating a better-designed, less-prone-to-breaking, reasonably-priced Dmax crank? We're having quite a few issues with the OEM.
Are you having problems even when running an alternate fire camshaft? I thought the alt-fire cams were helping the OEM cranks to live longer at higher HP levels than they were with OEM cams.
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Old 04-03-2017, 07:33 PM   #48
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They help, but that still doesnt address the base problems of the OEM crank design. I was just wondering if Hamilton was thinking of getting into it.
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:21 PM   #49
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Takedown, The better block material will help with this quite a bit. If we add ribbing to the outside of the block tooling costs would be quite a bit higher and would drive block costs up a bit.

Duramax parts are CRAZY expensive. Maybe it's time we come out with a cost effective head, rods and crankshaft.
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Old 04-04-2017, 08:27 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by Texashighways View Post
Takedown, The better block material will help with this quite a bit. If we add ribbing to the outside of the block tooling costs would be quite a bit higher and would drive block costs up a bit.

Duramax parts are CRAZY expensive. Maybe it's time we come out with a cost effective head, rods and crankshaft.
Thanks Zach. I saw you are also tying in the mains to the deck which will also help keep it together.
 
Old 04-04-2017, 01:40 PM   #51
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Duramax parts are CRAZY expensive. Maybe it's time we come out with a cost effective head, rods and crankshaft.
That would be awesome Zach!!! I'm sure people would like to buy them. Another source for an Alternate Fire camshaft would be great too...
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Old 04-04-2017, 02:07 PM   #52
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your thoughts please....

I haven't seen much since I've been out of the game for two years, but I'm down for a stroker 7.1L Cummins motor.

Is there anything in production or in a truck since the original post? I know there are some solid blocks floating around but are they a 7.1 setup? Not trying to be ignorant Im just catching up with the latest.
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Old 04-04-2017, 10:18 PM   #53
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The solid blocks are 4.210" bore but will accept up to 4.4".

On the new wet 6.7l performance heads and blocks, both are cast and should be finish machined soon. The new wet head should be good for a 4.300 or 4.350 to lesser hp.
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Old 04-05-2017, 12:32 AM   #54
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Our new 24v casting.

[URL=http://s240.photobucket.com/user/zacheryhamilton/media/Screenshot_20170330-000139_zpsif99tvaf.png.html]Click the image to open in full size.
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Last edited by Texashighways; 04-05-2017 at 12:37 AM.
 
Old 04-05-2017, 12:33 AM   #55
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Stock style head for comparison...

[URL=http://s240.photobucket.com/user/zacheryhamilton/media/20170125_113939_zpsqdjojih3.jpg.html]Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 04-05-2017, 12:07 PM   #56
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After getting some quotes back on simple aluminum molds, I can't imagine how much you have in tooling costs to get these done. Simply amazing!
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Old 04-06-2017, 10:07 AM   #57
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5" stroke would net a terrible rod ratio. Adding a deck plate and longer rods most likely wouldn't work because of clearance issues, even the +1 rods now are very close to the bottom of the cylinder bores and we most often have to clearance the liner depending on bore size. But I suppose if you open the bore up large enough it could work.
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Old 04-06-2017, 10:13 AM   #58
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Using 8" rods would put you at 1.6:1, the same as a stock 5.9. Getting pistons made with that pin height would be no big deal, or if you have enough top ring land, a deck spacer would work also.
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Old 04-06-2017, 10:56 AM   #59
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Bingo. I run a 8.2" rod on a standard deck height. At 4.4" bore it clears nicely with a 5" stroke with plenty of clearance
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Old 04-06-2017, 11:01 AM   #60
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Stock style head for comparison...

[URL=http://s240.photobucket.com/user/zacheryhamilton/media/20170125_113939_zpsqdjojih3.jpg.html]Click the image to open in full size.
I can't make heads or tales about either one of them. (Pun intended) lol
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