My first TDI
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Big Swole
MegaInterceptor
Get the intake cleanedand get rid of the EGR stuff immediately so all these so it does not take back up in there again.
No need to have a switchable tunes for these cars in my opinion. My Malone stage 4 tune with all my mods still gets great mileage and makes 60 more horsepower than it started with.
Do you know the history on the timing belt?
No need to have a switchable tunes for these cars in my opinion. My Malone stage 4 tune with all my mods still gets great mileage and makes 60 more horsepower than it started with.
Do you know the history on the timing belt?
Ok. How far can these be pushed with the stock clutch? And yes, previous owner who is a helicopter mechanic thought he should be qualified to change a glow plug but it twisted off in the head so the head came off and was totally rebuilt, new pulleys, new water pump, new belt tensioner, and new timing belt was 30k miles ago. He had a pretty good stack of receipts with it. These ALH engines don't break cams like other models right?
RDPsmoker
OUT TO LUNCH..
This seemed like a good thread.
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185409
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185409
HightechRedneck
New member
Welcome to the chaos LOL
Malone has a switchable tune but will only work with a 2000+ car. The 99.5s are a little different.
ISSPRO for the gauges, AFE for the intake and straight pipe it. I would recommend Malone for it.
Malone has a switchable tune but will only work with a 2000+ car. The 99.5s are a little different.
ISSPRO for the gauges, AFE for the intake and straight pipe it. I would recommend Malone for it.
Big Swole
MegaInterceptor
Like I said in this thread, look up Andrew Rodriguez at http://www.fixmyvw.com for lots of your vw / tdi needs.
Anyone have a lead on a good cheap turbo back exhaust? Most kits I find are cat back, some are full exhaust but no down pipe, and the ones that are full exhaust with the down pipe are stainless and cost $600! Good ol aluminized exhaust has never failed me on my pickups, I'd think it'd be fine on a car if I could just find one that was a full kit
crazyrunner33
New member
Welcome to the small block of the TDI world, like previously stated, delete the EGR and clean the intake. You have a TDI with the 10mm VP37 pump, it's actually a reliable pump and is more like a VE pump than the VP44. And like Swole said, Andrew is a good source for parts. So is Peter at idparts.com If you want, you can make a peppy and affordable car that gets great mileage. Or if you get too carried away, you can build these things up to 300 or more hp.
Install a downpipe and take it to a local exhaust shop, the should be able to fab up and install the rest for 100 dollars. This is the one I used on my '03 back in the day.
http://www.idparts.com/downpipe-a4-p-1173.html
Rocketchip, Malone or Kerma are the tuners to go with. Rocketchip is hard to get a hold of, but Jeff is a true genious. I've had good luck with Kerma tuning and Malone is probably who I'll go with for my common rail.
The stock clutch and DMF held together on my old one with 160-180 hp and around 300 lb/ft of torque for a couple years, a lot longer than anyone said it would. However, the DMF came apart. The clutch replacement isn't that difficult or expensive, a G60 SMF with a VR6 clutch is just under 400, a South Bend clutch is recommended for big power. However, the stock clutch should hold up to a tune and injectors.
Install a downpipe and take it to a local exhaust shop, the should be able to fab up and install the rest for 100 dollars. This is the one I used on my '03 back in the day.
http://www.idparts.com/downpipe-a4-p-1173.html
Rocketchip, Malone or Kerma are the tuners to go with. Rocketchip is hard to get a hold of, but Jeff is a true genious. I've had good luck with Kerma tuning and Malone is probably who I'll go with for my common rail.
The stock clutch and DMF held together on my old one with 160-180 hp and around 300 lb/ft of torque for a couple years, a lot longer than anyone said it would. However, the DMF came apart. The clutch replacement isn't that difficult or expensive, a G60 SMF with a VR6 clutch is just under 400, a South Bend clutch is recommended for big power. However, the stock clutch should hold up to a tune and injectors.
Stock clutches really vary across the board. I have seen them slip with injectors and a tune and I have seen others last a while with the added power. If you are going to do a clutch upgrade make sure you go to a single mass flywheel as the DMF can cause some serious damage when it fails.
Your ECU being a 99.5 will need to be sent out and socketed for the tune. The 99.5s also had ECU programming that can cause hard starting when warm. A tune will cure this issue as well.
DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON AN INTAKE. YOU WILL GAIN NO POWER OR FUEL ECONOMY. With that out of the way if you have it burning a hole in your pocket go ahead. I currently run a stock airbox on my car with much larger injectors, 11mm pump and a 17/22 turbo. Your MAF will thank you for the proper filtration and the cold air the well designed factory airbox provides. I would also recommend cutting out the "Snow screen" at the very front portion of the inlet tube that feeds the airbox.
Many people just straight pipe the factory exhaust and gut the cat. A 2.5" downpipe and a shop installed exhaust as above mentioned will work good, too. I personally like the whistle a stock turbo and stock diameter exhaust piping provide - you lost some of this with the 2.5"
I would personally just start with an exhaust, tune and a set of injectors. Injector sizing depends on your goals - tell us a bit more and you can get good suggestions.
I use Mike at TD Tuning for my car. Car runs clean, get great mileage and makes great power.
Your ECU being a 99.5 will need to be sent out and socketed for the tune. The 99.5s also had ECU programming that can cause hard starting when warm. A tune will cure this issue as well.
DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON AN INTAKE. YOU WILL GAIN NO POWER OR FUEL ECONOMY. With that out of the way if you have it burning a hole in your pocket go ahead. I currently run a stock airbox on my car with much larger injectors, 11mm pump and a 17/22 turbo. Your MAF will thank you for the proper filtration and the cold air the well designed factory airbox provides. I would also recommend cutting out the "Snow screen" at the very front portion of the inlet tube that feeds the airbox.
Many people just straight pipe the factory exhaust and gut the cat. A 2.5" downpipe and a shop installed exhaust as above mentioned will work good, too. I personally like the whistle a stock turbo and stock diameter exhaust piping provide - you lost some of this with the 2.5"
I would personally just start with an exhaust, tune and a set of injectors. Injector sizing depends on your goals - tell us a bit more and you can get good suggestions.
I use Mike at TD Tuning for my car. Car runs clean, get great mileage and makes great power.
HightechRedneck
New member
I will agree with drew on the intake. there is no power to made additionally with it. I simply bought one for the simplicity and the ability to reuse.
will24
That guy
I ran a tune and both .216s and .205s (swapped from the .216s to .205s) on a stock clutch AND DMF on my ALH for the last 130k, I don't drive like a D bag, but that clutch has served me quite well.
I am at 280k, I've rebuilt 5th gear once, on my third timing belt, did all the coolant orings, 3rd alternator pulley, lower rad hose once, EGR delete done and manifold cleaned, 3rd starter, second set of glow plugs. I think that's about it.
I have a BRM I just bought too, I love my ALH too much to get rid of it though!
I am at 280k, I've rebuilt 5th gear once, on my third timing belt, did all the coolant orings, 3rd alternator pulley, lower rad hose once, EGR delete done and manifold cleaned, 3rd starter, second set of glow plugs. I think that's about it.
I have a BRM I just bought too, I love my ALH too much to get rid of it though!
More good information, thanks guys! I was looking on the Malone page, they had something that intrigued me, they have the option for what they call Dynamic EGR. The EGR functions normally until 90* coolant temp, then they shut it off. This is to help the car warm up in colder weather better, but once cruising it acts like the EGR has been removed. Has anyone tried this? Any of you guys with EGR deletes have issues warming up in the cold? It can get into the teens and single digits here quite often during the winter.
Just won an eBay auction on a ProfiDiesel 2.5" Stainless constant diameter turbo back exhaust with what looks like a resonator or flow through muffler, no cat. $259.87 American with $82.53 American in shipping, grand total $350.69 American. Way cheaper than Buzzken or Kerma! Looks like good quality, hope it is but it is coming from Bulgaria, if not I have a buddy who can TIG stainless.
Same kit, the auction on this one ends tomorrow. http://www.ebay.com/itm/262140666901 What's funny is they had shipping listed as C$110 for mine which is $82 US, but on this one they list shipping as $110 US lol. But if you get on there and eBay snipe it right at the last second like I did, I bet you can still come out way ahead of the other kits.
huntduck
New member
Thanks! I'll have to setup an account so I can watch it.