Fuel Filter Change on 2008 Ford 6.4L

[4x4dually]

Searched with little results. Watched a few youtube videos but most are schidt.

How does one properly bleed a 6.4L after both filters are swapped. Apparently I get to do this Saturday on my paw-n-law's truck. Trying to do my homework before I get there. I see that I'll need a 36mm socket. Do I need a certain fitting or anything for the bleed line? And just cycle key on and off 6 times? I don't see them bumping the starter like we do on the dodges.

Any help would be SUPER! I'd love to show up and know what to do and not look like an iD10t.

#NotAFordMan

[J-Pipes]

Originally Posted by 4x4dually

Searched with little results. Watched a few youtube videos but most are schidt.



How does one properly bleed a 6.4L after both filters are swapped. Apparently I get to do this Saturday on my paw-n-law's truck. Trying to do my homework before I get there. I see that I'll need a 36mm socket. Do I need a certain fitting or anything for the bleed line? And just cycle key on and off 6 times? I don't see them bumping the starter like we do on the dodges.



Any help would be SUPER! I'd love to show up and know what to do and not look like an iD10t.



#NotAFordMan

Have to get rid of the 6.4 to not look like an idiot!

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[4x4dually]

So from what I've gathered....it is NOT necessary to bleed the system if you change the filters one at a time then cycle the key on and off for 6 cycles.

Everyone concur with that?

[4x4dually]

I guess effin' rookie questions get rookie response times.

[bracker8040]

Make sure you use Motorcraft filters. I cycle the key, and let the pump time out each time, until I don’t hear air hitting the tank anymore.

I’ve had a couple 6.4’s that wouldn’t prime after a fuel filter swap, and had to put a HFCM (Ford speak for the pump/filter assembly on the frame) before they would prime and stay running.

[sootie]

Changing them one at a time makes it easier to start, but isn't necessary. I always do it like this: change the hfcm filter (the one on the frame) and make sure you wipe out the cap as it will likely have debris in it. You will also get a diesel shower if the truck is a 4x4. It's tight working conditions. I can't usually seat the filter in the cap and then install it like you should-there isn't room. I usually stick the filter in the housing and then thread the cap on. Then move to the upper filter (it's the smaller of the two plastic caps on top of the engine). As a habit, due to high quantity of hpfp failures on these, I always take a light and check the bottom of the bowl for sparkles or metallic flakes. If so-bad news lol. Once you've put the new filter up top, cycle the key six times for 20 seconds each. You should hear some gurgling at first. Then, with the key on, go under hood and locate the Schrader valve on the side of the fuel cooler. The cooler is on the drivers side, bolted to a bracket on the u-tube connecting the two turbos. Kind of a square aluminum thing with a miniature rad cap on it. Lay a rag under it and poke the valve. You will get some air and bubbles out of there. Probably the pump will have timed out and you will need to go cycle the key again. Keep poking the valve until you get straight fuel out. Only then attempt to start the engine.

[4x4dually]

Excellent, fellas. Thanks for the tips. Greatly appreciate it.

[Mudn_1]

you don't need to bleed as stated above. Just Change both Filters, Key on 20secs then off a few times. truck should start.

[dieselbeef]

what a pita

[4x4dually]

Originally Posted by dieselbeef

what a pita

Agreed. Use filters that can be pre-filled. Either top load, or canisters up from the bottom. This sideways schidt piss3s me off every time. Like the oil filter on the wife's Enclave. The motherfawker is behind the fan where a person can barely reach it and as soon as it cracks the seal...everything gets a bath. Some engineers need locked in portable toilets and set on fire.

[bracker8040]

Originally Posted by 4x4dually

Agreed. Use filters that can be pre-filled. Either top load, or canisters up from the bottom. This sideways schidt3s me off every time. Like the oil filter on the wife's Enclave. The motherfawker is behind the fan where a person can barely reach it and as soon as it cracks the seal...everything gets a bath. Some engineers need locked in portable toilets and set on fire.

Here’s the proper way to do a fuel system on a Powerstroke.

[4x4dually]

Originally Posted by bracker8040

Here’s the proper way to do a fuel system on a Powerstroke.

Ya, that's a tad overboard for paw-paw's bone stock highway truck.

[Meyers Farms]

Originally Posted by sootie

Changing them one at a time makes it easier to start, but isn't necessary. I always do it like this: change the hfcm filter (the one on the frame) and make sure you wipe out the cap as it will likely have debris in it. You will also get a diesel shower if the truck is a 4x4. It's tight working conditions. I can't usually seat the filter in the cap and then install it like you should-there isn't room. I usually stick the filter in the housing and then thread the cap on. Then move to the upper filter (it's the smaller of the two plastic caps on top of the engine). As a habit, due to high quantity of hpfp failures on these, I always take a light and check the bottom of the bowl for sparkles or metallic flakes. If so-bad news lol. Once you've put the new filter up top, cycle the key six times for 20 seconds each. You should hear some gurgling at first. Then, with the key on, go under hood and locate the Schrader valve on the side of the fuel cooler. The cooler is on the drivers side, bolted to a bracket on the u-tube connecting the two turbos. Kind of a square aluminum thing with a miniature rad cap on it. Lay a rag under it and poke the valve. You will get some air and bubbles out of there. Probably the pump will have timed out and you will need to go cycle the key again. Keep poking the valve until you get straight fuel out. Only then attempt to start the engine.

Had trouble in the past without bleeding the Schrader valve. Use the valve every time now and haven’t had a problem since.

[4x4dually]

Originally Posted by Meyers Farms

Had trouble in the past without bleeding the Schrader valve. Use the valve every time now and haven’t had a problem since.

For no more time than it will take to do that.....it seems to me like a "might as well do it" thing. So, kick the pump in and bleed it while the pump is running, correct? How do you keep it from going everywhere? I don't have a fitting to put on it.

[Snedge]

Originally Posted by Meyers Farms

Had trouble in the past without bleeding the Schrader valve. Use the valve every time now and haven’t had a problem since.

Awesome ! A debate on changing Powerstroke fuel filters. I am riveted.

Leave it to Cattleman.

[4x4dually]

Originally Posted by Snedge

Awesome ! A debate on changing Powerstroke fuel filters. I am riveted.

Leave it to Cattleman.

Hey. I never work on this Ford schidt and I surely don't want to go get my father-in-laws truck vapor locked and look dumb. Get back on your porch, El Torino.

[Meyers Farms]

Originally Posted by Snedge

Awesome ! A debate on changing Powerstroke fuel filters. I am riveted.

Leave it to Cattleman.

Originally Posted by 4x4dually

For no more time than it will take to do that.....it seems to me like a "might as well do it" thing. So, kick the pump in and bleed it while the pump is running, correct? How do you keep it from going everywhere? I don't have a fitting to put on it.

Key on, pump running. I use the cap from an aerosol can to catch the fuel and run a couple cap fills out. It doesn’t spray out, it will just run out and you will notice air bubbles being pushed out.

[turbom700]

I did a cummins swap on my truck when it need the fuel filters changed it was much easier and cheaper that way.

[4x4dually]

Starts and runs for 5 seconds and dies. What now? Piece of sh1t ford.


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[J-Pipes]

Originally Posted by 4x4dually

Starts and runs for 5 seconds and dies. What now? Piece of sh1t ford.


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See post #18.

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