I just bought a crank...

1972RedNeck

New member
So I just bought a 6.7 crank a few minutes ago. Threw a decent low ball offer out on Ebay and got it.

Will be going in a 1998 12 valve block (industrial). Planning on running a VE pump so I need to swap the crank gear. How do I go about doing so? Just get a huge puller to get it off and put the new gear in the BBQ for a while and tap it on? Do I need to worry about welding it or will it be fine driving a VE pump at 400 to 450 HP?

My 6.0 Ford just rolled 10K hours (actually wouldn't roll, just stuck at 9999.9). Less than 5 miles after it rolled I stopped in town to grab some parts and came back out and it wouldn't start - first time this 6.0 has ever given me trouble.

Long story short, it has developed a high pressure oil leak, so that along with #4 injector that goes on vacation if I don't run way to much fuel additive and a turbo that gets stuck more often than not means that it is the end of the line for the 350K mile 6.0 Ford.

Truck is in great shape, so it will get a stroked 12 valve.
 
If you are going to junk the 6.7 crank gear, just cut it off. The new gear needs to be heated evenly before sliding it in place. We have a toaster oven.
Work fast.
 
If you are going to junk the 6.7 crank gear, just cut it off. The new gear needs to be heated evenly before sliding it in place. We have a toaster oven.
Work fast.

How warm do I want to get the gear? Obviously as hot as I can without changing the metal - 500°?
 
So I was digging through my parts pile and I have a set of five 3802747 pistons and 12v rods (the engine chucked one). Three questions, the first mostly out of curiosity:

- What is the compression ratio on these pistons?
- I have a few other 12v rods laying around - can I mix and match rods without having it balanced?
- Do I need to weld the crank gear for my mild HP goals?
 
17.3:1

You can mix rods without balancing, but balance them anyway. It's easy.
Welding the gear on isn't necessary, but why not do it while you're looking at it. It's easy
 
Bowl volume is going to change when you are forced to remove 0.080" from the crown.

Just grind down the pistons .080" ? Is it that easy? At one point, I was thinking of using a 6.7 crank for a cheap and mild stroke/displacement increase, but if I had to buy new pistons or shorter rods, I don't think it be worth it for the less then 10 cu-in increase. If I could mill down the stock pistons .080, I'd live with the smaller bowl volume, but won't the removal of material weaken the piston or place the top ring too close to the top of the piston??

Ed
 
Just grind down the pistons .080" ? Is it that easy? If I could mill down the stock pistons .080, I'd live with the smaller bowl volume, but won't the removal of material weaken the piston or place the top ring too close to the top of the piston??

It can be done, it would depend on the piston that was used to begin with, I would recommend something with a top ring land 14mm below the crown if that was the intended purpose.
 
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