I am looking to do a 400rwhp build on my PSD. my currents mods are in sig. I want it to be reliable, and not have to worry about having to crawl under it, or have to crouch under the hood very often. My thought were, stage one single shots, GT38r, VB, and a chip reburn. I am sure there will be more needed to get me to my goal of 400rwhp. What am I missing? Will a VB be sufficent for my trans, or will I need to be looking at a torquI converter as well? I will be daily dr ing the truck, not romping on it very much, and I do not want smoke. I realize there will be smoke, but I would really like to avoid it daily driving. What else will need to be done to hit my mark of 400rwhp, being reliable? Truck has 166k on it and am looking to get at MANY more miles out of it, without having to spend large amounts of money repairing.
400rwhp
- Thread starter Hillshire
- Start date
JJeepyjohn
Make Me Fries
Prolly stage 2 s and a HPOP
imelmo
Go away, I'm 'batin'!
DI 235cc hybrids and a GTP38r. Fuel system of your choice, torque converter and shift kit. I also put in headstuds for extra insurance but I've seen many people go without them for quite some time.
That was what I originally had on my old orange truck. Calculator put it at 450ish on fuel, 600ish with nitrous. Never had a single issue like that other than clutches finally starting to go out in the trans after about 150 or more nitrous passes, so I ended up having to get it built. LOL
Even then the trans never slipped that I could feel/see. Wouldn't have even known except there was clutch material in it when I had it serviced.
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That was what I originally had on my old orange truck. Calculator put it at 450ish on fuel, 600ish with nitrous. Never had a single issue like that other than clutches finally starting to go out in the trans after about 150 or more nitrous passes, so I ended up having to get it built. LOL
Even then the trans never slipped that I could feel/see. Wouldn't have even known except there was clutch material in it when I had it serviced.
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Danny (imelmo) is on the right track.
I'm not trying to bust anyone's balls here, but to me it's strange when someone says they want to be at "X" horsepower, and then the recommendations to get there usually involve injectors that at full tilt will barely make that power level. And when they do reach that power level, the EGT's are high because the injectors are running long pulsewidth to deliver all the fuel they can, and the HPOP is struggling just to maintain over 2000 psi, so the smoke is excessive and never cleans up.
Instead, take imelmo's advice and get the larger injectors. Then have them tuned for 400 rwhp. The amount of smoke and the difference in EGT's is going to be huge.
I'm running 250/200's on a stock PMR motor with a stock HPOP, 38R turbo, and a built trans... and tuned to run somewhere around 425hp. A few months ago I went to Truck Fest and so happened to race a guy in a 7.3L with Stage II sticks. The race was kinda close, but notice the difference in smoke levels (I'm in the right lane):
My tailpipe is clean, you can see the smoke out the back of his truck. I went faster with less smoke and I bet lower EGT's.
And my bone stock 17 degree HPOP maintains just over 3000 psi rock solid. Plus, with the exact same mods (except injectors) I can tow with lower EGT's and higher HP than stock injectors. My tow tune dyno'ed 310hp, about the same power level as a stock truck with a racing chip. Yet a stock truck can't tow in a race tune over a mountain pass without EGT's reaching thermonuclear meltdown.
Stage I's and II's also run hotter than my truck. I know this because I've tuned both setups with the exact same turbo and similar mods. Stage II's also start taxing the stock HPOP when they are running full tilt, and some stock pumps just can't keep up.
Again, you'll end up with a better setup if you go larger, then tune down to the power level you want. Some folks might think that my injectors are way overkill for the power level I have (and the PMR's), but personally I think it's a great setup. At the very least, go with what Danny suggested, rather than just the stage I's or II's... and barely eek out the power you are trying to reach.
I'm not trying to bust anyone's balls here, but to me it's strange when someone says they want to be at "X" horsepower, and then the recommendations to get there usually involve injectors that at full tilt will barely make that power level. And when they do reach that power level, the EGT's are high because the injectors are running long pulsewidth to deliver all the fuel they can, and the HPOP is struggling just to maintain over 2000 psi, so the smoke is excessive and never cleans up.
Instead, take imelmo's advice and get the larger injectors. Then have them tuned for 400 rwhp. The amount of smoke and the difference in EGT's is going to be huge.
I'm running 250/200's on a stock PMR motor with a stock HPOP, 38R turbo, and a built trans... and tuned to run somewhere around 425hp. A few months ago I went to Truck Fest and so happened to race a guy in a 7.3L with Stage II sticks. The race was kinda close, but notice the difference in smoke levels (I'm in the right lane):
My tailpipe is clean, you can see the smoke out the back of his truck. I went faster with less smoke and I bet lower EGT's.
And my bone stock 17 degree HPOP maintains just over 3000 psi rock solid. Plus, with the exact same mods (except injectors) I can tow with lower EGT's and higher HP than stock injectors. My tow tune dyno'ed 310hp, about the same power level as a stock truck with a racing chip. Yet a stock truck can't tow in a race tune over a mountain pass without EGT's reaching thermonuclear meltdown.
Stage I's and II's also run hotter than my truck. I know this because I've tuned both setups with the exact same turbo and similar mods. Stage II's also start taxing the stock HPOP when they are running full tilt, and some stock pumps just can't keep up.
Again, you'll end up with a better setup if you go larger, then tune down to the power level you want. Some folks might think that my injectors are way overkill for the power level I have (and the PMR's), but personally I think it's a great setup. At the very least, go with what Danny suggested, rather than just the stage I's or II's... and barely eek out the power you are trying to reach.
