ODL

are you guys running a triple disk from like valair and able to run these setups with the nv4500 bell housing with a drop box and reverser? would I still have to send clutch out and get different centers put in? wanting to also go odl just getting more ideas never seen it like this. how does it work for rear drive shaft do they make them that long from basically bell housing to rear or do you run hanger bearings cant see you doing that just wondered that always.
 
BluegrassDiesel said:
Knock on wood I've only had one drivetrain issue this year. The ears on my slave cylinder broke off and basically dumped the clutch at 4K rpm. Chipped a couple teeth on the front ring and pinion. It's a pretty big chunk of change but I'm absolutely loving it so far
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If I go this route, will my 5.9 VP flywheel adapter work or do I need one from a common rail to mate up to a 6.7 block? Did the teeth chip when the slave broke? I was wondering how good SBC slave was under that much pressure. I've ditched the master a long time ago for a wilwood setup just for that reason only mine broke at the end of a run and couldn't get it to stop.
 
Also in this ODL route, if you don't use a adapter plate for a 6.3 bell and use the stock nv4500 bell and a spacer, will a 5.9 VP flywheel housing fit a 6.7 block or do I need to find one out of a 5.9 CR? Another question is I seen a lot of SQHD/20145 welded in solid and seen some bolted in with tabs. What's some thoughts on this?
 
We actually put our 20-145 in on a set of perches and retained a factory leaf spring with u bolts. Made a ladder bar setup to make it nice and rigid. Our thought is axle is way easier to unbolt and roll out to service center. Others might have a different opinion but that is what worked best for us
 
3 slip yokes and a 1480 u-joint caps broke in our area. We believe the slip yokes failed due to the track being very rough at the end make the trucks hop.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I'm thinking about going with a steerable front axle also (f106 or something else). I see most guys with tube frames make there own "4-link" setup to tie the axle to the frame. I've seen them where they are adjustable, fixed or made into a triangle. Any body have any experience with any of these types of setups? Which would be better?
 
cumins01 said:
Thanks for the input guys. I'm thinking about going with a steerable front axle also (f106 or something else). I see most guys with tube frames make there own "4-link" setup to tie the axle to the frame. I've seen them where they are adjustable, fixed or made into a triangle. Any body have any experience with any of these types of setups? Which would be better?
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4 link setups seem to work the best but everyone has their own opinion.
 
I modeled my suspension for my 106 off the stock dodge setup. Used stock springs and made my 4 link bars that mount in the stock frame mounts. Works pretty good.
 
I was going to make something off the stock design but just seen some were adjustable. Did not know if someone had one that has say 4 holes so you can make the trailing arms more flat instead of a sharp angle.
 
okay now the next choice. With a SCS dropbox/reverser, they are 1-3/4 10 spline. Would you leave the u-joints I have now (1410/1480) or update to the 1480/1550? Smaller u-joint one would think would be a weak point and a place to fail (good idea or bad) but with the larger one's you eliminate a failure. What's some thoughts on this?
 
You're building a rear end, using a drop box and a reverser to hold big power. I wouldn't build in a weak link in the driveline.

But then again, I have no experience at the power levels or drive train setup you are talking.
 
If I was doing it I would fabricate a steel belhousing whatever depth I needed to fit a 13" 3 disc and mechanical linkage, and wrap a blanket around it.
 
cumins01 said:
I can't seem to find a 1550 for a dana 60. All I see is 1480. Did you go bigger front end to get that series?
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As far as I know they do not make any larger than a 1480 yoke for a DANA 60. The small pinion of the 60 will give up the ghost long before you bust a 1480 yoke or u-joint anyhow.
 
SledPuller21 said:
As far as I know they do not make any larger than a 1480 yoke for a DANA 60. The small pinion of the 60 will give up the ghost long before you bust a 1480 yoke or u-joint anyhow.
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Are the 60's still holding together with HP we are seeing now? I just don't want to have to replace the 60 R/P all the time like I did the 80. So you could use a 1410 series off the dropbox and 60 a be fine. Most guys using 1550 series for the rear shaft?
 
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