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02-04-2012, 05:32 PM
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#1
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Name: shortbusdriver
Title: this guy
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Mayville, WI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,318
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Triangulated 4 link options
Starting my suspension build soon on my 94 4x4 SCLB and was going to back half it with one of the 4 link back half kits untill I was pointed in the direction of a trangulated 4 link setup. Was told the regular back half kits are not built tough enough for a high powered 7000lb diesel and a triangulated kit would be much better suited for my needs.
Now the best I can describe the truck is it will be built as a Diesel Power Challege truck. So by this I mean it has to race, pull, tow, and whatever else they do nowadays. I just really want to set it up the best I can, even if its expensive.
Looking into these triangulated kits I see they come as a single or double. Not sure what would suite me better. Most of the info out there is for rock crawlers and trail trucks so I dont really know how to translate it into useful info for me.
If its a single do I want the triangulated links on the bottom or top? Ill prob come up with more questions as I get even more confused on the subject.
Last edited by shortbusdriver; 02-04-2012 at 05:33 PM.
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02-04-2012, 06:48 PM
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#2
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Name: SWALLDOG
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Woods Cross, Utah
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Posts: 454
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You want to keep the triangulated links on the top and have them come together on the axle end. It will give you a better roll center then if the lower ones were triangulated. The problem is your fuel tank is right in the way. Good luck. Let us know how the build goes.
Android using Tapatalk (probably @ work)
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02-04-2012, 06:59 PM
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#3
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Name: shortbusdriver
Title: this guy
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Mayville, WI
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Posts: 2,318
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Fuel tank in the bed. Space is not an issue. I was told to go with a double setup if I have the space. This is what I was thinking but I do not know the drawbacks if there are any.
I would also like to know the issues with same length 4 links vs longer/shorter setups.
Last edited by shortbusdriver; 02-04-2012 at 07:10 PM.
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02-04-2012, 07:08 PM
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#4
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Name: gmcz71502
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Ocala,Fl
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Posts: 363
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theres a 4 link calculator somewhere on the web. I used it about 3 years ago and it help alot. I was building a 2.5ton mud truck so im sure you may setup defferently. As for bar length It was a percentage off of the lower bar thats makes the upper bars. I think it was 30% shorter than the lower but not 100% sure.. I will see if I can find it for you.
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02-04-2012, 07:11 PM
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#5
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Name: shortbusdriver
Title: this guy
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Mayville, WI
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Posts: 2,318
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Heard Pirate has one. Ill check it out when I have some time.
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02-04-2012, 07:16 PM
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#6
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Name: gmcz71502
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Ocala,Fl
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Posts: 363
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02-05-2012, 10:25 AM
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#8
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Name: csutton7
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
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Posts: 694
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joe farmer's links are the one's you want use and listen to
read, read, read--measure, measure, measure---you can use pvc pipe for mock up tubes--
I'd use heims(big mothers 1 1/4") here's a kit that lot's of 4x4 guys use:
Link Kits, Brackets, & Tabs - RuffStuff Specialties
what are you using for springs/shocks???
take your time and build it right---if you can't stay to the exactness of the calculator dimensions I'd not worry, tons of guys get it close and it works---the calculator is the 100% perfect system and sometimes you just can't do it---
top bars are usually 70-75% of the bottom bar length---
stout mounts with extra bracing is your friend......chris
__________________
Did have a 99 dodge 4x4 QC sport daily driver ladderracked puller(sleddy loves my truck)---constantly upgraded since '00--743 hp back in '03:
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02-05-2012, 10:58 AM
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#9
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Name: AHall
Title: Hobbyist
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Western Slope, CO
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Posts: 4,603
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Considered a trailing arm/ladder bar style and coil overs?
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02-05-2012, 12:08 PM
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#10
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Name: shortbusdriver
Title: this guy
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Mayville, WI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csutton7
joe farmer's links are the one's you want use and listen to
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Have talked with him about this.
Quote:
read, read, read--measure, measure, measure---you can use pvc pipe for mock up tubes--
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pvc, good idea, ill use that
Same kit I was told to use
Quote:
what are you using for springs/shocks???
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Not sure yet, I was going to order the kit and get that under way before I worry about that. I would like some advice on what would be the best to run. I was thinking about some kind of adjustable coil over but I guess I am not to sure about anything as of now.
Quote:
take your time and build it right---if you can't stay to the exactness of the calculator dimensions I'd not worry, tons of guys get it close and it works---the calculator is the 100% perfect system and sometimes you just can't do it---
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Good to know.
Quote:
stout mounts with extra bracing is your friend......chris
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I was going to brace it as much as possible, due to the amount of power and what I plan on doing with it.
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02-05-2012, 01:09 PM
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#11
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Name: csutton7
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
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Posts: 694
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on the coilovers go with 2.5" minimum and 3" would be better--I'd talk to someone with extensive 4x4 experience on what rate springs to start out with if you go coilovers as it's a pain to change springs numerous times(trust me)--so you want to get close to start---
possibly you could try some front springs and shocks though, but I'm just brainstorming with that idea---good luck and keep us posted.....chris
__________________
Did have a 99 dodge 4x4 QC sport daily driver ladderracked puller(sleddy loves my truck)---constantly upgraded since '00--743 hp back in '03:
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02-05-2012, 02:22 PM
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#12
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Name: shortbusdriver
Title: this guy
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Mayville, WI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AHall
Considered a trailing arm/ladder bar style and coil overs?
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Chatted with Brandon and the more we talked the more he thought a beefy triangulated 4 link was the way to go. Most of the other kits I have looked into are quite flimsy compared to the one I plan on going with (at least as of now).
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02-05-2012, 02:22 PM
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#13
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Name: joefarmer
Title: MR. Supreme Overlord
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: ohio
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 6,137
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I personally like AFCO or Strange double adjustable and I'd recommend them in your application.
__________________
brandon'); DROP TABLE Users;--1948 Dodge 1.5t 12v RH swap | 99 F250 12v RE test rkt | 11 X5 'no soup' | 08 F250 CR RE swap | 05 2500 CR 68 standalone
firepunk.com
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02-05-2012, 02:42 PM
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#14
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Name: shortbusdriver
Title: this guy
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Mayville, WI
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Posts: 2,318
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02-05-2012, 11:07 PM
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#15
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Name: joefarmer
Title: MR. Supreme Overlord
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: ohio
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Posts: 6,137
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Closer to these: AFCO Racing 3750 - AFCO Racing T2 Double Adjustable Shocks - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Or a set ready to run for $660 on page 115-116 of Strange's catalog.
Strange Engineering
I'd probably start with 150 or 175 in/lb springs, depending on how much you leave of the factory bed/frame/hitch/etc.
__________________
brandon'); DROP TABLE Users;--1948 Dodge 1.5t 12v RH swap | 99 F250 12v RE test rkt | 11 X5 'no soup' | 08 F250 CR RE swap | 05 2500 CR 68 standalone
firepunk.com
Last edited by joefarmer; 02-05-2012 at 11:09 PM.
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02-05-2012, 11:21 PM
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#16
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Name: YOUNG GUNS15
Title: Im AWESOME!!!!
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Utah
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Posts: 7,346
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What is the proposed advantage of this vs the other 4 link method?
__________________
Spence
-1994 4x4 12 valve 13mm, single 475 748/1292 Fuel 872/1470 N2O
-2005 4x4 12 valve CCSB 3rd gen '12-rail' 280hp
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02-05-2012, 11:26 PM
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#17
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Name: cquestad
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Posts: 1,696
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Why would anyone spend that much on a shock that was not a King or Fox 2.5 or larger? Then can easiily be valved anyway you need.
__________________
04 Dodge MPI/Ultimate/F1/Smarty/Thuren 917hp and on a serious build
07.5 Dodge 3500
12 Dodge 3500
Quote:
Originally Posted by nwpadmax
I'm pretty sure your awesomeness gets in the way of seeing anyone else's results.
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02-06-2012, 12:09 AM
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#18
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Name: gmcz71502
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Ocala,Fl
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YOUNG GUNS15
What is the proposed advantage of this vs the other 4 link method?
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Triangulated keeps the axle centered without have to use a Trac bar. There a couple different 4link setups.
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02-06-2012, 01:50 AM
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#19
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Name: AHall
Title: Hobbyist
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Western Slope, CO
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,603
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Wishbone locater. Much stronger and keeps centered during travel.
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02-06-2012, 06:26 PM
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#20
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Name: shortbusdriver
Title: this guy
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Mayville, WI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AHall
Wishbone locater. Much stronger and keeps centered during travel.
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Looking at your setup vs a triangulated version doesnt look stronger to me.
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