Tube Chassis Build

[BamBam]

lol ya your the first one to notice that, we didnt want to build it in the other shop because it wasnt heated yet, and my bro want to put in a big garage door anyways, now he has a reason to do it, it will be a saturday job with some budies and some beers,

[trucknut56]

Originally Posted by undertaker

lol ya your the first one to notice that, we didnt want to build it in the other shop because it wasnt heated yet, and my bro want to put in a big garage door anyways, now he has a reason to do it, it will be a saturday job with some budies and some beers,

SWEET, ill be there to help with the beer for sure.
Truck looks awesome, glad you guys finally decided to tell everyone, it was getting hard to keep in seeing as that thing is going to be insane. Cant wait till you guys get started on mine

[4wheelspt]

I had a chance to have a sneak peak at the chassis build and the quality in the build so far is very impressive it is comparable to what you would see in higher end race shops!

[RyanB]

Originally Posted by DISTURBED

If you didnt flip the rear after turning it around you will be running on the reverse side of the gear. The reason that there is only one set of gears for say a 60 i believe is the carrier is oppisite from a front end to a rear D60. Your D80 is not flipped just turned around from it original position as a rear. Pull the cover and roll the truck forward and you will see its going to contact the wrong side of the gear.

Not sure where you are getting all your info from....There is no differnce in my axles gear contact than on any other Dana60 front axle with the exception of a Dana60 High Pinion Ford that solved the problem of the pinion gear running on the back side of the teeth on the ring gear. We all have been driving trucks with the gears running like this for a long long time. Also, its no different than the "big guys" running custom build F106's with military outers. Also, the Dana 70's and so called 80's running in the GM Kodiac's are all running the same way...just no one ever realized it!


As far as the gear ratio between the two axles...I have seen guys run a mixed tire size of 33's and 35's with the same ratio's front and back which is way worse than a .03% ratio difference and I also seen guys run there 33's or 35's with 60+psi of air in the backs and just enough to hold the bead on the fronts which is also worse over all than that .03% difference!

Yeah, Cepeks are a big looking tire (they are actually very similar in heigh to a 265/75R16 though) and I have heard many many times from some very realiable people that they still don't bite as hard as a DOT tire especially one with a ton of sipe's

As far as the Shop doors go Ron...Good call! Planning on doing a major reno/addition to the shop like Marc said.

It deffinatly has been a fun project so far but we probably won't be updating its progress every step of the way.....as much as some would want us to!

RyanB
RyanB

[DISTURBED]

Originally Posted by RyanB

As far as the gear ratio between the two axles...I have seen guys run a mixed tire size of 33's and 35's with the same ratio's front and back which is way worse than a .03% ratio difference and I also seen guys run there 33's or 35's with 60+psi of air in the backs and just enough to hold the bead on the fronts which is also worse over all than that .03% difference!

Yeah, Cepeks are a big looking tire (they are actually very similar in heigh to a 265/75R16 though) and I have heard many many times from some very realiable people that they still don't bite as hard as a DOT tire especially one with a ton of sipe's

RyanB
RyanB

There is no way somebody run 35's on the back and 33 on the front with the same ratio. the truck would bind up and explode unless they run on sand. Beside you wouldnt get the transfercase to engage with that set. Unless they ran say a 4.56 in the back with the 35 and 4.10 up front with the 33. Check the rolling diameter on a cepeck and it should be around 108" with 25psi in them try it being closer to a 315, they acctually roll 5" longer then my 305's which put them close to the 315 mark which is a huge difference and it would be 3.0% not .03%

[seeker1056]

Ryan
Around here, I beleive Bill and I are the only ones to ever run staggered tires in the 33/35 range and we did indeed run 4:11 and 4:56 respectively for the proper rollout.
Now to be fair - from tire manufacturer to to tire manufacturer, in my experience from the staggered tires days, there were some 35's only measured around 33.5" diameter, and 33's that almost measured 33" diameter and one could get away with that.
However the norm for a 33" tire is around 31.5-32 diameter, and a 35 usually runs around 34-34.5 diameter, and that seperation is too much

the reason we went to staggered tires was exactly the issue with the low aired fronts at say 8-12 psi binding against a 60 psi rear, so we could still do that and not have bind. With an automatic we needed every hp and advantage we could get against the sticks

If you do some more research you will find that every cog up or down is around 180-200 motor rpm, and every inch in tire is consistantly the same for motor rpm at around 180-200, from 3:50-4:88s, and under or over that gear range tends to be slightly more/less for some reason.

Anyways - I am sure you will gitter done, just will be sum trial n error

[12VHotrodder]

Gee Ryan, Sorry about all this, I just thought you had some neat way around this gearing thing.
Thanks

[RyanB]

not a problem. Like I say...I have done my research, I am confident that its going to be built tuff enough to take it. If you take the total roll out of the tire and both at the same psi the front is going to turn just a touch of 3" further than the rear....with the front having less weight on it once the sled starts loading the truck and the way us diesels leave the line I personally think its going to be just fine...also the fact that our tracks up here will be a bit more forgiving than down south...I don't see a problem with it. And if I we do have a problem we will just slap a custom F106 under it and call it a day...

Thanks for all the remarks...good or bad!

[DISTURBED]

Hey what do i know, everybody is always trying to reinvent the wheel. Guess you got it all figured out. Good luck with it hopefully the next time we see it, it doesnt look like a plane trying to take flight. Not trying to be a smarta** but its been tried and it hasnt worked but maybe you will get lucky, just trying to save you alot of headaches and busted parts. I know how my truck is in certain situations and mine is 6.17 in the front and 6.20 in the rear but like i said good luck with the build.

[12VHotrodder]

A little Story,

A few :Years back we had a JD 4960 Tractor MFWD. When you were working in the field you could litteraly watch the dirt being thrown from behind the front wheels ( kind of made you dizzy if you spent to much time looking at it) but from the rears almost nothing was visable. Radared slip was under 5 %. We where all ways pulling to much weight and had the front end really loaded up and never got into a power hop like on the newer deeres when you got to much up front. I have never come across another tractor that worked like that one ( interms of front wheel slip) but it worked great. I think in this situation with our ( 2 or 3 excepted) loose tracks you should have no problems with the difference in speed, the whole truck is under about 30-50% slip anyway, whats 3% more under one axle? Just my

[BamBam]

Thanks for that Heath definatly information that has been proven just not that well known info!!! i was doing some reasearch after this came up and not knowing about the whole ratio differance(thats dana80 is ryans little baby) and turns out the rock crawler guys run 5% + in order to have the front tires pull up over the rocks and what not ( just like how 12Vhotrodder said)


Marc,

[DISTURBED]

Good point Hotrodder we have a 4255 (15000lbs) that does the power hop with a full rack of suit case weights across the front, but what you have to think about is the tractor in the feild working is doing it at say 6-10 mph and a rock crawler at maybe the same spend while on a rock. This truck should be above 35 mph wheel speed. So if a tractor can power hop weighing 15000lbs at 10mph whats the truck going to do at 6200lbs and 35-40mph wheel speed

[RyanB]

I think what Heath (12vhotrodder) is trying to point out is that his tractor didn't hopp because of the possibility of the mismatched gear ratio's. I deffinatly think the hop would be extensive if the rear was spinning faster than the front or say you had the same rato front and back but had the tires air'd right down on the front (this just may be the cause of so much bounce that we all have seen...guys want a huge contact patch with the front tires but it must come at a price)

Im going to leave this for now....will see what happens when we get the truck out but honestly, I think its going to be fine but I do like to hear concerns and critisism as well.

Hopefully others will ask about other parts of the build!

[Diesel Buddy]

ryan did you end up selling all of your stuff from the other truck.

[RyanB]

Originally Posted by Diesel Buddy

ryan did you end up selling all of your stuff from the other truck.

all gone but the rolling chassis...:-( could use the cash from it for the clutch yet!!!!!!

[SmokeShow]

so what spindles do you put on that 80 to make it a steering axle?

The frame... is it's mild steel? DOM? chromoly? fence post ? what overall dimension and wall thickness? Stick, MIG or TIG welded?

How are you suspending the front end? coilover setup? any better pics?



I'm just curious and like details. Answer what you feel like and tell me to pound sand if there's parts you don't want to disclose.


C-ya

[RyanB]

Good questions. Spindles are custom D60 outers (chevy king pin style)

Tubing is all DOM in .120 to .25 in certain areas
The tubing is Tig Welded and some of the bracketry is mig welded
Its going to have coil-overs

As far as more pics...not at this time!

Ryan

[SmokeShow]

How do you go about detemining the proper sizing for the coilovers for the application? I don't know enough about them to even guess. Most of them I've seen seem more suited to offroading where they are going for articulation or for dragracing where they aren't seeing loads like a pull truck would. It seems those uses are exactly opposite criteria for a sledpulling application where there will be minimal axle movement and loading is key to weight transfer and all that jazz.


Thanks for sharing!

[RAMICATOR]

i know someone that ran a #6200 truck that ran dot 35's front and rear with a 5.89 up front with an ARB and a 6.20 in the rear welded and the truck never bounced never chattered or tried the fly like a plane running 35-40 mph wheel speed. it can be done.

[StrokerGavin03]

nice good work man, how wide is this truck going to be?