Hope this helps someone:
I installed a fluidampr on my 2005 6.0L PSD. Just plain awesome! Highly recommended. I purchased mine from Dennis at ITP Diesel, same price as the others, but I got the replacement bolts AND a T-shirt! Sweet.
Tools used: air impact wrench, torque wrench (50 ft-lb), metric ratchet set w/ 6" extention, large channel locks (for the fan), large flat head screw driver (or a pry bar)
If possible, let the engine cool first because you'll need to take the top radiator hose off.
1) Remove the top radiator hose, get some shop towels to plug the holes (don't forget about them when you put it back together). Bend it out of the way with a bungee cord or something.
2) With a 8mm ratchet remove the 2 bolts on each side of the fan shroud. Using a pry bar, gently work the shroud up and out. You'll need to push it toward the cab to clear the shroud mounts and the radiator hose mount to work it up.
3) With a 15 mm ratchet remove the fan guard bolts. There are 2 underneath and 2 on top (the ratchet extention works nice for the top ones). An air wrench would be helpful; especially for the underside ones; there isn't much room to work under there.
4) Unplug the electrical connection for the fan clutch. Remove it from its mount on the fan guard.
5) The fan guard plastic assembly should be hanging by a top center eyelet on a bolt without a nut. Slide it out so you have more room to grab the main fan bolt with the channel locks (or a very large cresent wrench). Lefty loosey the fan (might need a screw driver on the water pump head to keep the engine from turning). Twist it off and pull the fan and guard out together.
6) With a 1/2" square ratchet head, twist the belt tentioner and take the serpinetine belt off (pay attention to its path; there should also be a diagram by your hood latch for you to follow when you put it back).
7) With the impact wrench remove the damper bolts. The damper comes off pretty easy; it's heavy so be ready.
8) Run the serpentine belt between the damper and the waterpump pulley. Put the new damper on. Align the pin first and then thread a bolt on (don't use the old bolts, they are TTY, you have to use new bolts). This is a bit tricky with only 2 hands. My friend helped me. The new fluidampr damper weighs 20 lbs! Thread the remaining bolts on, just make sure you are aligned with the pin.
9) Torque the bolts to 50 ft-lbs. Then use the impact wrench to turn an additional 1/4 turn. The impact wrench is helpful; otherwise you need to find a way to keep the engine from turning over.
10) Reverse the steps to assembly your serpentine belt and fan assembly.
This does not help with the typcial drone/moan that folks complain about. That is most likely related to turbo pedistal or the drive shaft balancing, or even the HPOP.
This does a super job at engine harmonic damping. I noticed a difference in engine smoothness immediately. I did it for engine longevity. Glad it did too, I'm impressed. Yes, it did help with shifting too (a little).
I installed a fluidampr on my 2005 6.0L PSD. Just plain awesome! Highly recommended. I purchased mine from Dennis at ITP Diesel, same price as the others, but I got the replacement bolts AND a T-shirt! Sweet.
Tools used: air impact wrench, torque wrench (50 ft-lb), metric ratchet set w/ 6" extention, large channel locks (for the fan), large flat head screw driver (or a pry bar)
If possible, let the engine cool first because you'll need to take the top radiator hose off.
1) Remove the top radiator hose, get some shop towels to plug the holes (don't forget about them when you put it back together). Bend it out of the way with a bungee cord or something.
2) With a 8mm ratchet remove the 2 bolts on each side of the fan shroud. Using a pry bar, gently work the shroud up and out. You'll need to push it toward the cab to clear the shroud mounts and the radiator hose mount to work it up.
3) With a 15 mm ratchet remove the fan guard bolts. There are 2 underneath and 2 on top (the ratchet extention works nice for the top ones). An air wrench would be helpful; especially for the underside ones; there isn't much room to work under there.
4) Unplug the electrical connection for the fan clutch. Remove it from its mount on the fan guard.
5) The fan guard plastic assembly should be hanging by a top center eyelet on a bolt without a nut. Slide it out so you have more room to grab the main fan bolt with the channel locks (or a very large cresent wrench). Lefty loosey the fan (might need a screw driver on the water pump head to keep the engine from turning). Twist it off and pull the fan and guard out together.
6) With a 1/2" square ratchet head, twist the belt tentioner and take the serpinetine belt off (pay attention to its path; there should also be a diagram by your hood latch for you to follow when you put it back).
7) With the impact wrench remove the damper bolts. The damper comes off pretty easy; it's heavy so be ready.
8) Run the serpentine belt between the damper and the waterpump pulley. Put the new damper on. Align the pin first and then thread a bolt on (don't use the old bolts, they are TTY, you have to use new bolts). This is a bit tricky with only 2 hands. My friend helped me. The new fluidampr damper weighs 20 lbs! Thread the remaining bolts on, just make sure you are aligned with the pin.
9) Torque the bolts to 50 ft-lbs. Then use the impact wrench to turn an additional 1/4 turn. The impact wrench is helpful; otherwise you need to find a way to keep the engine from turning over.
10) Reverse the steps to assembly your serpentine belt and fan assembly.
This does not help with the typcial drone/moan that folks complain about. That is most likely related to turbo pedistal or the drive shaft balancing, or even the HPOP.
This does a super job at engine harmonic damping. I noticed a difference in engine smoothness immediately. I did it for engine longevity. Glad it did too, I'm impressed. Yes, it did help with shifting too (a little).
