Post your p-pump swap set-up

Rods,

When did you P-pump yours? I didn't even read or hear anything about it. Have you pulled with it yet?

-Tom

You know funny thing last week I got tired of the VP it was going out so my buddy done had all this stuff so I said u want to trade all my electrics for the ppump stuff cause he was putting a 12v in he said ok but some guys wanted my boxes and pump so I sold all that then bought his stuff , so here I am , the swap part was a sench but now or sence monday I'v had all kinds of bugs it took me 4 days just to get the side cover from leaking then my fuel system wasnt wright , I had to put the regulator on the return side and now after pulling the pump 4 times to fix the side cover its got out of time , and I dont have a clue on timing and or tools so I'v been getting in driving coming back and retarding it about 1 in just to get the rattle out its alot better now but needs to b set then yesterday I was getting ready for a pull and the fuel pump locked up so I borrowed another but I was tired and said for get I want to get everything in order b4 I make a pass .. All in all I really like it,, this was going to b a winter project but the time was wright I guess one thing I dont get is I'm only making 40+lbs egts are 1200deg and its not clearing the smoke I'm holding 40 psi fuel , I'm going to check boost from the compressor to make sure I havent got a leak and also I need to take the RPM stopper out

If someone could help me with uploading photos, i took some pics of my setup today. I used a ford 302 timing pointer to index with the ATI damper. It worked perfect. One question, since the oil inlet to the inj pump hits the intake, can i relocate the feed to the plug on the outside of the pump?

ILLINOISRAM said:

If someone could help me with uploading photos, i took some pics of my setup today. I used a ford 302 timing pointer to index with the ATI damper. It worked perfect. One question, since the oil inlet to the inj pump hits the intake, can i relocate the feed to the plug on the outside of the pump?

Click to expand...

Yep, some say it will need a restrictor. Mine seems fine without.

Just to be sure, we are talking about the plug right in front of the bolt that bolts the pump to the support bracket upright? Tim

thats how mine is and on a hard run it will puke oil out of the front breather tube witch I have running in a bottle now underneath the truck , I'm going to find a different fitting that doesnt have a hole then drill a 1/8 oil port , If u look on the back side were the original is there is a very small hole there

rods, post more pics of the throttle set up... is that the 24v stuff you used?

Let me tell ya putting the oil inlet on the throttle side of the pump would be much easier than the intake side, I didn't know at the time it sucked!

I've got a decent amount of pictures of the build up, although it is fairly straight forward. Any pics you want, ask, and I'll see what I can dig up. My linkage is the 12v stuff from Schieds, although I did modify it a bit to keep my 24v throttle cable.

getblown5.9 said:

rods, post more pics of the throttle set up... is that the 24v stuff you used?

Click to expand...

Yeah its all 24v , I tried to get close but with the intake tube its hard to get a good pic, and wew I cut it up so much theres not much left just the main throttle and bracket to hold the cable , I had to notch a few holes and cut some metal and I had to make my own rod , it wasnt that bad at all I like the spring return of the 24v better but I did add one more to the pump lever just in case the rod popped off

I'm a little new to this whole idea of p-pumping a 24-valve although I do know why guys are doing it. In regards to the parts list in the first post - the gear and timing case/cover are just stock 12 valve parts correct? Lines have to be fabricated, throttle linkage has to be modified, and I think I read somewhere that a bracket needs to be made for the pump?

Just stock 12V timing housing/cover. If you buy a new 12V housing, you don't have to tab the KDP...

Lines are made by a number of people, or watch the classifieds...

You can just use a 12V throttle cable (no fab'ing required). Installs in 3 minutes... No fabrication on the pump brackets if you buy the parts required...