6.7l p-pump conversion

winkdemon

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hey guys wondering if any of you guys know of or have p-pumped a 6.7 l ,
i am looking at doing this but haven't got the block yet and want to see what fits what doesn't

i know of timing gears 12v helical cut , 6.7l straight cut, think i have that fixed already
 
Search is your friend. Timing cover needs some work to fit, finding fittings etc to plumb oil to ppump, etc, etc.

Be better to just put the money in a good cam, turbo, and some port work on a 5.9.
 
i would do that , but it's for a friend of mine , and thats what he wants , ( be different i guess) i should have the engine next month and i guess i will see what it tkaes then
 
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you just pull the gear off the 6.7 crank and take one from a 12 or 24V and press it back it will fits just fine, we got a 6.7 crank in a 12V and fits like OEM with shorter pistons :woohoo:
 
I have done the 6.7 p-pump used a core 12v motor crank gear cam gear pump gear ... Bought front cover from scheids it's about 1200 no the 5.9 won't fit they had lines and I used 99 injectors u must use edm
Fuel tubes common rail orifice is to tight for low pressure of p pump
 
I think this would be cool, but it just seems like you'd be going backwards. Would you still be able to keep the electronic injectors? Or will you basically have to make a 6.7 24v version of an old 12v? Either way it will definitely be different. Interested in seeing the end result.
 
Not backwards at all, when you have a Ppump 12v thats just not cutting it anymore. and you have a well built 6.7L with no fuel system or electronics land in your lap. :D
 
You don't NEED a $1200 timing case, just $50 in tools (metric transfer punches and good drill bits) to add and relocate a few holes and the locator (dowel) pins.
You also need to build a nose for the front of the pan, simple fab.

Helpful hint: Once you replace the cam (or it's gear) and crank gear, use the back lash value from the cam and crank gears meshing to set the pump gear's lash value.
Use that to set the lash on the pump gear and locate the cover accordingly.

Once the cover is properly located, use transfer punches to mark hole/dowel centers and drill accordingly.

I'm right in the middle of doing one with a VE (Backwards? Not really!), but the cover mods and bolt holes needing drilled are identical for the P-7100.

Mark.
 
Now I've heard the pump will not clear the head with a stock 12v gearcase.

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Why's that funny?

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Because some things seem like a good idea at the time. More trouble than it's worth, but dumping the common rail for a mechanical pump is not a step backward.
 
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The "secret" to maintain a stock appearance?
Use a VP head with the steam holes added in and the P-pump clears.
Like the VE one I'm doing, there's a small cast-in boss near the timing case that needs removed to get the P-7100's raised index boss to clear the block.
You'll also need to put a small notch in the front face of the block to clear the timing pin housing to get the cover to set flush to the block.

It just takes some drilling, filling and centering, but you can make a mechanical cover fit a commonrail, it's just the nose of the oil pan that's tricky.

Mark.
 
Some pics to illustrate;

The boss that's in the way, on BOTH the VE and the P-7100, both cases in place...

VE:
Commechanicalcnvrsn3.jpg


P-7100:
Commechanicalcnvrsn4.jpg


Timing pin housing relief point:
Commechanicalcnvrsn2.jpg


Here's 2 pics, 1 each, of the underside of a 6.7 head and a VP head, note that the 6.7 head has much more casting in the lower end of the intake closer to the pump area, the grinding marks on the VP head is to facilitate minor clearance issues on a VE....

6.7 head:
Commechanicalcnvrsn7.jpg


VP head:
Commechanicalcnvrsn8.jpg


Here's shot of an oil pan laid onto a 6.7 block, with a VE timing case in place:
Commechanicalcnvrsn1.jpg


Example of a couple of holes that'll need filled, drilled and tapped:
Commechanicalcnvrsn5.jpg


Mark.
 
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