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Old 12-24-2017, 12:38 AM   #201
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Would help to know the title of that code...
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Street Triple, 35's, Trutrac, Carli, MM3 from Gordon, 1100hp
 
Old 12-27-2017, 09:26 AM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broaner View Post
Would help to know the title of that code...


Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit range.


I’m gonna try triple checking the wiring for pressure sensor and then unplug isspro gauge and see if it pops. Beginning to wonder if the gauge is making it pop somehow.


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2002 4wd towing truck
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Originally Posted by Joesixpack View Post
VE vs VP....isn't that like watching retard's fight?
 
Old 12-27-2017, 09:46 AM   #203
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Piggyback rail gauge no bueno.
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05.5 QCSB Shotpeened NV5600 - 994hp/1650tq, 6.7, Wagler Rods, QSB Pistons, 625's, Oversized Valves, ZZFab, P&P, 150%, Dual CP3, 69/73/1.0 & 82/96/1.32
Street Triple, 35's, Trutrac, Carli, MM3 from Gordon, 1100hp
 
Old 12-27-2017, 11:25 AM   #204
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Quote:
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Piggyback rail gauge no bueno.


How is everyone watching rail pressure? I thought lots of people ran isspro or autometer rail gauges?


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesixpack View Post
VE vs VP....isn't that like watching retard's fight?
 
Old 12-27-2017, 01:54 PM   #205
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I've always heard and thought its best not to introduce a possible interference/interruption in the harness. Best rail sensors are OBDII based in my eyes. Then you know exactly what the ECU is seeing. Just one more set of variables when you piggyback. Gauge can malfunction or worse... its reading correctly but interferes with signal to ECU. Not saying thats whats happening with you. Just saying, I've definitely seen many scenarios where it was the culprit.
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Street Triple, 35's, Trutrac, Carli, MM3 from Gordon, 1100hp

Last edited by Broaner; 12-27-2017 at 01:55 PM.
 
Old 12-27-2017, 05:15 PM   #206
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^^^ ive had this problem before. Truck started missing while driving then got so bad I couldn’t even put it in gear it would spit and sputter so bad. The butt connectors I had used to tap the rail sensor was the cause and interrupted the signal somehow. The gauge would read fine but on a CTS it would jump all over. Cut it back and soldered in a new rail sensor pigtail and was perfect. I have it soldered in now so I hope it doesn’t cause interference again.
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Old 05-24-2018, 04:25 PM   #207
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So I drove out to my property and parked for a while then go back in to drive home if the highway and started getting bad vibs which seemed to come from the front. I suspected front driveshaft. I removed it and drove and no vibs so I’m getting a new HD driveshaft from driveshaft specialist in San Antonio.

My question: while I was under there I noticed the front output shaft had some bearing play in it which measured about .030-.040. Does this seem ok or a little loose? No leaks from the seal. Should I be thinking about a transfer case rebuild soon?
230k miles on the clock now


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesixpack View Post
VE vs VP....isn't that like watching retard's fight?
 
Old 05-24-2018, 05:39 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broaner View Post
I've always heard and thought its best not to introduce a possible interference/interruption in the harness. Best rail sensors are OBDII based in my eyes. Then you know exactly what the ECU is seeing. Just one more set of variables when you piggyback. Gauge can malfunction or worse... its reading correctly but interferes with signal to ECU. Not saying thats whats happening with you. Just saying, I've definitely seen many scenarios where it was the culprit.
my autometer in my avitar has been there for 7 years. it has always been 2k higher on rail pressure than on EFI/OBD. its twitchy when my stereo is up loud too
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Old 05-25-2018, 09:37 AM   #209
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Gostman, my t/c output shaft has about the same play up and down . I was gonna look at a schematic and see if I could just put some more torque on the nut and take the play out . I got 302k on mine but I’ve had a free spin kit since 70ish k.
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Old 05-25-2018, 10:34 AM   #210
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Quote:
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Gostman, my t/c output shaft has about the same play up and down . I was gonna look at a schematic and see if I could just put some more torque on the nut and take the play out . I got 302k on mine but I’ve had a free spin kit since 70ish k.


Cool thx. That’s what I was looking for. I think I’ll leave it be for now and just throw on another shaft.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesixpack View Post
VE vs VP....isn't that like watching retard's fight?
 
Old 06-06-2018, 08:56 PM   #211
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Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Little more meat to it.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesixpack View Post
VE vs VP....isn't that like watching retard's fight?
 
Old 06-22-2018, 03:41 PM   #212
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well, whats the latest?
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07' Silver 2500 5.9 4x4 LWB
Goerend 48re-csp5/EFI- T&C Mild Cp3-F1 Apex 7.5 -S369sxe Amsoil
Coolant Bypass -Airdog-D&J- Hamilton 188/220 -AFE-ARP Opti-Lube
H-Town Off-Road
 
Old 06-22-2018, 06:15 PM   #213
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How much that run you ? I’m gonna get one from them soon .
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Old 06-22-2018, 09:59 PM   #214
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Nice. I have the same one. Been great for a long time now. Still wanna get a rear from them.
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Street Triple, 35's, Trutrac, Carli, MM3 from Gordon, 1100hp
 
Old 06-26-2018, 12:40 PM   #215
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The heavy duty version with 4 new bolts and shipping, tax etc was about $620. I want to get a aluminum rear from them at some point. Smooth as can be now!


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2002 4wd towing truck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesixpack View Post
VE vs VP....isn't that like watching retard's fight?
 
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