HE351VE on a VP44 truck - Page 2 - Competition Diesel.Com

bwdt · 10-30-2009, 09:51 AM

I would just get an exhaust brake controller. that way you could turn on the exhaust brake and operate it from the brake pedal and it would turn off when the truck idles and then reactivate when the pedal is depressed.
Since I'm putting a six speed Allison in my truck with the tow haul switch, I can have the same switch activate the exhaust brake.

12valve · 10-30-2009, 12:52 PM

what brake controller? and how does one work?

The way i set mine up, it wouldnt be easy to operate the EB of a brake wire, unless you would use a couple of relays, or a very special switch, ive been thinkering with that idea, but cant come up with soemthing yet.
Im using a little electric motor, that move the rod in and out.
it works just like and electric window, you have to push the button some time to turn the motor till its where you want, and if you push the other button, it turns the other way (exchanges both wire's polarity)
The upside of this is, that it will stay where you leave it, and not move, unlike a door lock motor

if there was a way to make it work with a little solenoid, i think it would work better.... Im thinking about improving it.

There was mentioned a progressive spring earlier, ive been thinking about that too, didnt know such think exists, i was thinking like a governor spring kit (3 dif size springs) cuz it seems like a 15 psi it will open and at 1 or 2 more psi its already fully open... wish it would move much slower.

bwdt · 10-30-2009, 07:07 PM

Talked to fleece today and they told me that they will have a controller out in three weeks and it should be around six hundred. He said that you will have full adjust-ability and an exhaust brake function

as to your exhaust brake, I would get a solenoid off of an existing brake with one of their controllers and you should be set some of them use air pressure and you could use boost pressure to activate it with a solenoid and it would work until boost was gone?

Trapper · 10-30-2009, 08:56 PM

I could see that working but we have a few good examples, we can run these turbos easier and no programming needed. But it's a good idea.

12VEG · 10-31-2009, 07:40 PM

nice work!

So you just chopped the stock VGT and HX35 elbows, and welded the VGT flange up to the HX35 elbow? I like it, I think I'm gonna do that too.

12valve · 10-31-2009, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12VEG

nice work!

So you just chopped the stock VGT and HX35 elbows, and welded the VGT flange up to the HX35 elbow? I like it, I think I'm gonna do that too.

Exactly! i cut just the flange of and it nicely fits over the hx35 elbow-flange, it worked better than i would have thought
The downpipe comes a bit more to the right fender of the truck) since the outlet of the vgt comes out further away from the manifold, but on my truck it worked..

sooter · 11-03-2009, 07:12 AM

nice video...basically the same design as mine. i really like how it mounts to the T3 rather than dealing with the pita adapter...and the idea for the exhaust brake/spring set up on the actuator.

what is the electric motor for the exhaust brake? (generic?) are you worried about heat from the exhaust eventually frying the electric motor?

as you guys can tell these things are wicked quiet...say by to loud straight pipes and drone

12valve · 11-04-2009, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sooter

nice video...basically the same design as mine. i really like how it mounts to the T3 rather than dealing with the pita adapter...and the idea for the exhaust brake/spring set up on the actuator.

what is the electric motor for the exhaust brake? (generic?) are you worried about heat from the exhaust eventually frying the electric motor?

as you guys can tell these things are wicked quiet...say by to loud straight pipes and drone

thanks!
I don't know from what the motor is! The mechanic who I got it from said it's for high idle (which would work really good on a 12valve)
yeah I'm worried bout the heat, I wanna relocate further away from the turbine housing eventually when we are done harvesting corn.

Sometimes I miss the loud sound the old turbo made.
But I had lots of drone and noise in the cab since I installed the dual exhaust.
Now w th vgt it's really nice and quiete in the cab! I love that! Also idle at the exhaust is really quiete

sooter · 11-04-2009, 07:30 AM

i had mine wound up like yours which mostly whistled until it opened around 20psi. i just loosened it up and got back that straight pipe sound at low rpm, but it's as quiet as a 4" mufflered exhaust (like magnaflow quiet). still spools quick, but not as quick. ..and NO DRONE!

now there's no issue with the exhaust brake and the stock valve springs? i wondered if i would have an issue on stock valve springs...i don't know if the 6.7s have heavier duty valve springs or not??

notomas · 11-14-2009, 04:06 PM

I am collecting everything to install mine. I was also wondering about the stock exhaust springs on my 97. Should I change mine out for heavier springs or will the stockers hold up?

12valve · 11-14-2009, 10:49 PM

Don't know what do the exhaust brake companies suggest for the 24v trucks? I know 12vs need some 60lb exh valve springs as far as I know..

I did some milage calculations.. The first tank with this turbo I only got 14 mpg but that was really beating on it and making many 0-100 mph runs and some running at top speed...

Next tank I averaged 18 mpg. I never went above lvl 1 on the adrenaline and cruised with rpms under 2000 driving around 60 mph most of the time combined field and highway driving.
I was really expecting 20 mpg I'm gonna find out how it does with a wider open collar setting.. On th turbo..

VMacKenzie · 11-14-2009, 11:10 PM

24-valves came with heavier valve springs to be "E-Brake ready."

BlackSkyRacing · 11-16-2009, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12valve

Thanks!
Here's a video

BTW that video is f'ing awesome! I love the way the EB sounds... I think I am going to steal your idea from you in a way. At least with the direction the 451 moves I can actually mount the EB motor over the compressor housing and pull it in to actuate the EB then push it out to instantly adjust initial housing size for different cruising situations

12valve · 11-17-2009, 07:36 PM

Hey thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackSkyRacing

BTW that video is f'ing awesome! I love the way the EB sounds... I think I am going to steal your idea from you in a way. At least with the direction the 451 moves I can actually mount the EB motor over the compressor housing and pull it in to actuate the EB then push it out to instantly adjust initial housing size for different cruising situations

Thats what i need to figure out how to... i like the quiete sound of the turbo being closed down, but you just dont need that much boost cruising around, and like its been said before MPG shold be better with less restriction.... im finding out this tank of fuel how slightly bigger does...

notomas · 11-17-2009, 07:55 PM

I was just wondering if the motor could be used with these still, using a pressure switch to activate it, and the brake signal to retard it or brake. Is there a stop switch in the motor, or does it just run till it cant push the lever anymore. Does the motor return to a neutral position, or was that all controlled by the computer. If the motor could be used, wouldn't that stop the barking. Just some of my random thoughts running through my head. Oh and what does the computer measure to decide when to activate the turbo, manifold pressure, rpm's, Just currious how this thing was designed to work.

*Brayden* · 11-23-2009, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwdt

Talked to fleece today and they told me that they will have a controller out in three weeks and it should be around six hundred. He said that you will have full adjust-ability and an exhaust brake function

as to your exhaust brake, I would get a solenoid off of an existing brake with one of their controllers and you should be set some of them use air pressure and you could use boost pressure to activate it with a solenoid and it would work until boost was gone?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exsyhvw_6Do

And here it is

The pricing will be cheaper than posted.

*Brayden* · 11-23-2009, 09:19 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bL1L1mRETVE

explosives87 · 11-24-2009, 02:05 AM

great video.

wildwood · 11-25-2009, 03:02 PM

Why don't you use a toggle switch to torn it on and a push button starter switch. mount it to the break pedal next to the stop switch so when you push on the breaks it turns the e break on, and if you have a stick put one on the clutch pedal also so when you push it in it shuts off the e break.

diesel_smoke · 11-25-2009, 05:19 PM

What size is the exhaust outlet on the turbo without the elbow? 4"vband?

10-30-2009, 12:52 PM	#22
12valve Name: 12valve Title: Diesel Boy Status: Not Here Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: mexico Member`s Gallery Posts: 576	what brake controller? and how does one work? The way i set mine up, it wouldnt be easy to operate the EB of a brake wire, unless you would use a couple of relays, or a very special switch, ive been thinkering with that idea, but cant come up with soemthing yet. Im using a little electric motor, that move the rod in and out. it works just like and electric window, you have to push the button some time to turn the motor till its where you want, and if you push the other button, it turns the other way (exchanges both wire's polarity) The upside of this is, that it will stay where you leave it, and not move, unlike a door lock motor if there was a way to make it work with a little solenoid, i think it would work better.... Im thinking about improving it. There was mentioned a progressive spring earlier, ive been thinking about that too, didnt know such think exists, i was thinking like a governor spring kit (3 dif size springs) cuz it seems like a 15 psi it will open and at 1 or 2 more psi its already fully open... wish it would move much slower. __________________ 96 3500 Dually Manual Raptor Fuel Pump, 215 pump, no plate, Haisley 5K GSK, modded afc with spring kit, PDD 7mm DVs, Haley 5x.016 injectors, ARP head studs, 60lb valve springs, Southbend clutch.

10-30-2009, 08:56 PM	#24
Trapper Name: Trapper Title: Hater Status: Not Here Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Arizona Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,878	I could see that working but we have a few good examples, we can run these turbos easier and no programming needed. But it's a good idea. __________________ Work In Progress

10-31-2009, 07:40 PM	#25
12VEG Name: 12VEG Title: Veggie Burner Status: Not Here Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: San Francisco, Ca. Member`s Gallery Posts: 30	nice work! So you just chopped the stock VGT and HX35 elbows, and welded the VGT flange up to the HX35 elbow? I like it, I think I'm gonna do that too. __________________ 1997 2500 SCLB NV4500 4x4 - 5x.012 VCO's, No Plate, Modded and Tuned AFC, 4K GSK/60# VS, 2095 Plug, 16º Timing, 4" TBE, K&N Intake, Isspro EV Gauges, South Bend SDD3250, Bilstein 5100's, KDP Tabbed, 40 Gal. Veggie Oil System, B100 & WVO burner!

11-03-2009, 07:12 AM	#27
sooter Name: sooter Title: Green Behind the Ears Status: Not Here Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: somewhere between the mountains and the watah, NH Member`s Gallery Posts: 79	nice video...basically the same design as mine. i really like how it mounts to the T3 rather than dealing with the pita adapter...and the idea for the exhaust brake/spring set up on the actuator. what is the electric motor for the exhaust brake? (generic?) are you worried about heat from the exhaust eventually frying the electric motor? as you guys can tell these things are wicked quiet...say by to loud straight pipes and drone __________________ Early 04 2500 CA/235 graphite QC shorty 4x4 48re, 2nd gen exhaust manifold, smarty tnt, he351ve VGT single turbo, mechanical boost actuator, custom adapter, custom downpipe, etc. Arguing with a CF member is like arguing with a dining room table

11-04-2009, 07:30 AM	#29
sooter Name: sooter Title: Green Behind the Ears Status: Not Here Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: somewhere between the mountains and the watah, NH Member`s Gallery Posts: 79	i had mine wound up like yours which mostly whistled until it opened around 20psi. i just loosened it up and got back that straight pipe sound at low rpm, but it's as quiet as a 4" mufflered exhaust (like magnaflow quiet). still spools quick, but not as quick. ..and NO DRONE! now there's no issue with the exhaust brake and the stock valve springs? i wondered if i would have an issue on stock valve springs...i don't know if the 6.7s have heavier duty valve springs or not?? __________________ Early 04 2500 CA/235 graphite QC shorty 4x4 48re, 2nd gen exhaust manifold, smarty tnt, he351ve VGT single turbo, mechanical boost actuator, custom adapter, custom downpipe, etc. Arguing with a CF member is like arguing with a dining room table

10-30-2009, 09:51 AM	#21
bwdt Name: bwdt Title: engineer Status: Not Here Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Florida Member`s Gallery Posts: 455	I would just get an exhaust brake controller. that way you could turn on the exhaust brake and operate it from the brake pedal and it would turn off when the truck idles and then reactivate when the pedal is depressed. Since I'm putting a six speed Allison in my truck with the tow haul switch, I can have the same switch activate the exhaust brake.

10-30-2009, 07:07 PM	#23
bwdt Name: bwdt Title: engineer Status: Not Here Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Florida Member`s Gallery Posts: 455	Talked to fleece today and they told me that they will have a controller out in three weeks and it should be around six hundred. He said that you will have full adjust-ability and an exhaust brake function as to your exhaust brake, I would get a solenoid off of an existing brake with one of their controllers and you should be set some of them use air pressure and you could use boost pressure to activate it with a solenoid and it would work until boost was gone?

11-14-2009, 04:06 PM	#30
notomas Name: notomas Title: black and white smoke Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Rifle, Co Member`s Gallery Posts: 4	I am collecting everything to install mine. I was also wondering about the stock exhaust springs on my 97. Should I change mine out for heavier springs or will the stockers hold up? __________________ 1997 Dodge 2500 4x4, excab , K&N intake, 4" exhaust, egt,boost and tranny temp on the pillar, 5 star viskus torque converter, converter lock up, stage lll rebuild, #100 plate, starwheel forward and Smoke screw adjusted for power, 3gsk, silencer ring mia.

11-14-2009, 10:49 PM	#31
12valve Name: 12valve Title: Diesel Boy Status: Not Here Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: mexico Member`s Gallery Posts: 576	Don't know what do the exhaust brake companies suggest for the 24v trucks? I know 12vs need some 60lb exh valve springs as far as I know.. I did some milage calculations.. The first tank with this turbo I only got 14 mpg but that was really beating on it and making many 0-100 mph runs and some running at top speed... Next tank I averaged 18 mpg. I never went above lvl 1 on the adrenaline and cruised with rpms under 2000 driving around 60 mph most of the time combined field and highway driving. I was really expecting 20 mpg I'm gonna find out how it does with a wider open collar setting.. On th turbo.. __________________ 96 3500 Dually Manual Raptor Fuel Pump, 215 pump, no plate, Haisley 5K GSK, modded afc with spring kit, PDD 7mm DVs, Haley 5x.016 injectors, ARP head studs, 60lb valve springs, Southbend clutch.

11-14-2009, 11:10 PM	#32
VMacKenzie Name: VMacKenzie Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Kennewick, WA Member`s Gallery Posts: 625	24-valves came with heavier valve springs to be "E-Brake ready."

11-17-2009, 07:55 PM	#35
notomas Name: notomas Title: black and white smoke Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Rifle, Co Member`s Gallery Posts: 4	OWWW, my head, I cant stop thinking about it I was just wondering if the motor could be used with these still, using a pressure switch to activate it, and the brake signal to retard it or brake. Is there a stop switch in the motor, or does it just run till it cant push the lever anymore. Does the motor return to a neutral position, or was that all controlled by the computer. If the motor could be used, wouldn't that stop the barking. Just some of my random thoughts running through my head. Oh and what does the computer measure to decide when to activate the turbo, manifold pressure, rpm's, Just currious how this thing was designed to work. __________________ 1997 Dodge 2500 4x4, excab , K&N intake, 4" exhaust, egt,boost and tranny temp on the pillar, 5 star viskus torque converter, converter lock up, stage lll rebuild, #100 plate, starwheel forward and Smoke screw adjusted for power, 3gsk, silencer ring mia.

11-23-2009, 09:19 PM	#37
Brayden Name: Brayden Title: Comp Diesel Sponsor Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2007 Member`s Gallery Posts: 596	http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bL1L1mRETVE

11-24-2009, 02:05 AM	#38
explosives87 Name: explosives87 Title: powder monkey Status: Not Here Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Peoples Republic of California Member`s Gallery Posts: 953	great video. __________________ 01 QCLB 4x4 Bone stock Quote of the Day: "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading."

11-25-2009, 03:02 PM	#39
wildwood Name: wildwood Title: Diesel Enthusiast Status: Not Here Join Date: Jun 2007 Member`s Gallery Posts: 184	Why don't you use a toggle switch to torn it on and a push button starter switch. mount it to the break pedal next to the stop switch so when you push on the breaks it turns the e break on, and if you have a stick put one on the clutch pedal also so when you push it in it shuts off the e break. __________________ 2000 dodge QC,LB,4x4.5 speed,rv275,brute force intake,4in ex,,,road armor bumpers,12500winch.07 toyota tundra,35ft 5er sierra sport toyhuler,05 trx450,05trx250,07 650 spider.