Shop Truck

Wouldn't worry about a tube chassis holding up, all the top end pulling trucks are full yube chassis. Thinking Barker Machine or something like that is a very common chassis supplier for the pulling trucks. Just get the weight setup like this for the pull, that's what that class does when going into reverse!
f70636f000b177de77c583f5af85c961.jpg


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
I don't see the Toyota hubs holding up when they actually have some traction with the power you're trying to put down. They're tough but not that tough.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
I don't think he's intending on putting full power to the front end, thought he was running some sort of "open" transfer case. Sort of AWD kinda in theory.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
J-Pipes said:
I don't think he's intending on putting full power to the front end, thought he was running some sort of "open" transfer case. Sort of AWD kinda in theory.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yep, it is a clutch that drives the front diff. Surprisingly, those hubs will hold more than a man would think. They have been on the front of Bodacious it's whole life.

The pulling package gets the solid 60 front.
 
I hope you actually try pulling in advance of UCC. I think your mind will be blown when parts are subjected to torque and traction. Totally different ball game than mud drags .
 
He's not running the IFS setup to pull though, already said it'll swap in a solid D60 for that.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
J-Pipes said:
He's not running the IFS setup to pull though, already said it'll swap in a solid D60 for that.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Hey J-Pipes, at least we got folks reading. ...listening, yeah that peaceful image big papa posted/ Snedge reposted over on the other thread is looking better by the minute.
 
Yeah, I don't know that the ifs setup will hold up or not, but how you've been describing the intent so far, I think it's got a chance. But I do really like the idea of going as light as possible! A chassis that's light and stiff, with a sort of modular suspension packages. That is a pretty picture too!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
I missed the d60 part for pulling. Wouldn't worry about the yota parts for the drags with the clutched to case then.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
j.fondler said:
this right here ^^^^

the trucks that finished like 2-7 last year were consistent in all 3 events but didn't win any of them.

1500 hp, 9.80 1/4, 280 ft pull. if you can do that, you'll "qualify" for next year and probably finish top 10 in the actual UCC.

and sure, everyone is out to win the damn thing, but no offense to you, Bodacious, but if a small shop like yours just finishes top 10, thats a win IMO.
Click to expand...

Just wanted you all to know I have been listening. I just about have my engine build done in my head.

If it were not for possibly needing the sturdiness of the top end of the sleeved 6.7 I would just use a 12 valve block I have here.

I would also like to stretch the bore out as far as I can. Anyone care to share the max bore size of a sleeved 6.7?

Stock 5.9 crank. I could probably use the rods out of the PDD assembly and have some custom pistons cut.

Using the sponsored Water Warhead. With what needs done, I trust a fella right down the road from me. I will probably do as mentioned and just polish the ports up a bit.

Need to move more weight back and down in the chassis. I think I will fab up a stainless header and mount the big garret as a sinlge.

This should move us pretty close to 12-1400HP. We have the Mt. Diesel pump that should fuel pretty decent.

I want to street drive this thing all over the place.
 
Bodacious said:
If it were not for possibly needing the sturdiness of the top end of the sleeved 6.7 I would just use a 12 valve block I have here.

I would also like to stretch the bore out as far as I can. Anyone care to share the max bore size of a sleeved 6.7?.
Click to expand...

Ain't no way I would take a sleeved/deck plated oem block over the solid block you have for sale.

Even solid, with a cooled head you can drive it far more than you would imagine.
 
It won't be deck plated. Just sleeved. I've heard the 12 valve block may hold to 1200 HP. I know I can at least spray this thing enough to make that power.

Industrial was making some major numbers with a sleeved 6.7.
 
Not making excuses here, but you can probably tell by my post count I have been resting.

I did manage to get the IFS out of the wife's truck, stripped, and under the "Transformer Shop Truck".

I've been the reverse direction, Solid into IFS, but, had no reason to ever do the opposite.

It is waaaayyy easier to IFS where the solid axle was. If I wanted hack job this thing I could get in mounted in less than an hour. lol

The fella I bought this from, Dave Allen from Ireland,WV, was nice enough to let me bring the entire cutoff home to study the mounting points and geometry.

Starting to get 'er down there where I am happy. Just a little bit further and the factory '92 trans cross member will be on the ground.

TSTD.jpg


TSTD2.jpg


TSTD3.jpg


TSTD4.jpg


TSTD5.jpg


TSTD6.jpg
 
But if wanting to go short stroke big bore, wouldn't the solid block be better? I mean couldn't you go bigger with the cylinders without water passages to worry about? I'd think you'd still sleeve it at that point anyway though.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
Definitely want to street drive without any overheating. I am pretty sure you can take this Hamilton block to 4.35" bore no problem.

Would still like to hear from someone what the max bore they would go on a sleeved 6.7 would be.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top